low end fuzz

lookin for used thickness sander at least 18" grantattack@hotmail.com

if your making your own guitar there technically is no 'rules' really you SHOULD make your own nut, thats the rewarding part; when you buy bone (5$) its oversized to prolly about 2'' so no problem there;and the nut files; what i have is stewmac s two thinest files and a jewerly file set that gives me all my widths; just cut even spacing to what your width is and you'll be fine; the problem starts when you get to the other end of your guitar; i couldnt tell you where to find a bridge to accomidate your wide spacing; unless you want to have barely no taper in the width you might be screwed; espescially if your already having cash issues; oh and if its your first nut; dont be nervous; but you might wanna buy some backup pieces, or practise on some wood first; good luck

where are ppl finding all this cheap ebony? i pay 49$(can) b.f. for the gabon and maccassar is even more is all this ebony dry or green?

i did the same thing to these saddles in a bridge, where the lowest they would go, wasnt low enuff; it was for a fretless ; then i just ground the hex screws so they wernt pokin out

i got a lathe and am no expert, but i can make a damn good cylindar shape; i wanna turn a bunch of knobs, and was wondering where i could find the proper sized innerds (i wanna say sprokets, cause it sounds right;but i may just like the word) either that or i was thinking of having a lil allen screw like from bridge saddles to tighten against the post; but id really rather the ''sprockets"; maybe a circuit city?; im thinkin in the way of where ppl would go when they break their tv knob or sumtin? help please thank you

if strings will eat thru a fretless board of wood, id assume the same for a nut; mind you this is bass, and any damage is multiplied; im gonna assume your talkin 6-strings, but if not, try em w/flatwounds

just wonderin; did the stained wood filler accept an oil finish?; or did it turn out with dry freckles where the deep pores were?; or did you use another finish?

ive used pink ivory 3 times; 2 acoustic (i just made them for existing guitars) 1 bass i made; and they turned out awsome; though i wouldn't suggest it on 'metal thraher' type guitars because the string would act like a half round rasp; im still anticipating having to make a new nut soon for my bass, although 2 months of consistant playing and not much difference! im sure the same principles would apply; and who cares go for it; someones gotta try it once before its the new big thing; *i dont use bone unless on request because that smell isnt worth it; i rather cheap out on plastic

id suggest a truss rod; ebony IS hard as steel, and if its bone dry prolly would never move; but everyone knows how long ebony takes to dry; its ok to use it prematurely on thin(ner) sections like fingerboards because the neck will stop any warp that could happen to it; but as a main structure you could have problems as soon as the humidity changes

cool; is that a spalted back/burl top? is there more pics of that one on your site?

HOTT! can i ask why you use wenge accent veneers? the pics look great;but black, is it thick enough to see the grain?; or is it readilly available? perhaps it adds that extra punch? i use dyed pear for all my accent lines and i'm interested in your reason; i was thinkin about using 'wood'(besides the dyed stuff) veneers for accent lines, but when i use them on heels and headstocks (pizza box variety veneers;not big enough for body) i find they chip alot easier when shaping; i guess it would be a grain tearout; and what sucks is having to fill a subtle line because the sleekness is gone; just curiuos;

i get whaty your saying, but the only thing i dont like about staining right onto wood is the blotchiness; for staining i always put a bit of oil first so the stain is more even; and if i stain it jet black, by the time i reach my colour most the pores will be clogged up are you telling me then its no good for filler and oil?

so like it says; my plan is to washcoat it with tung oil; pore fill, stain and seal with more tung; is that (besides all the work filling the grain) basically the call of things? i dont have the filler yet, i want to keep everthing oil;i'm assuming i have to; i always like tung oil, unless its aburl or something spalted should i stain before pore fill or after; my thinkin was (after 1st washcoat) either i want to stain the entire piece and fill the remaning divets with filler; or i want to fill the pores and stain over everything; but idont know if the the fill will take on the color? i think turqoise grain on "jet as you can" black would look pretty fancy

right now it is about 15mm; i want to use it for a core between sipo and quilted maple; i know its not expensive; but thats beside the point; i dont just throw things out if i think theres achance i can save it; maybe 1mm is a lil over exagerated but the cup/twist is pretty bad; my humidity is always in check, its stays around 65,but my air cond. is pulling alot of moisture out of the air;more than normal; it wasnt stickered, i usually dont bother with purpleheart/bloodwood stuff like that; i do my walnuts and thin tops this purpleheart prolly spent most of the time on its side leaning on the shelf if i had to explain the warp, i'd say(use your imagination) the bottom of the one end is as high as the other ends top;did i explain that right? im use to 4/4 and 8/4 stock of PH so ive never really seen a twist in it either thanx guys

i got a top of purpleheart thats been thickness sanded; then it sat around for quite awhile and got quite a twisted cup; do you think if i glue it up in a stack; like two halfs of the body ontop of each other, i could get them to flatten and hold under the clamps? and would it start to seperate after the clamps are gone? by the time I plane and sand the warp out im gonna have a mm. and all of that work isnt worth it but i dont wanna have to scrap the body wood too

nope, im just blind; thats exactly what im lookin for; thanx

fair enough, i give; but to me, it sounds like your trying to get away with something, as opose to making the effort to build the strongest neck possible; opinions are like @$$holes, and im only comfortable with mine;

obviously setch thinks its a good idea; personnally i avoid anything in my neck that isn't quartered and straight grained; i know people use mahogany with great sucsess, but it dosent seem right if its not an acoustic i guess im stubborn with my ways, but i find my best projects are when the neck is hard as possible and the body is mixed; *stained (dogfart/heartwood) birdseye makes the best (hardest) fingerboards, and everyone is afraid to use it!

fair enough; i still cant find metal ones; im sure they are better

i say 2oo cause theyre just one of those things you ALWAYS need; 2 on each guitar; + extras for repairs, i think its a good number; but thank you any help would be great; i cant understand why jackplates are more popular than strap buttons?

dont use ash; i personnally beleive that will kill the ''instrument'' even a multi-lam neck; stick to your hardwoods; straight quartered pieces you need your neck to be as solid as possible ;woods with crazy grain are gonna pull every which way my favs are hard maple, purpleheart lyptus and ebony and please dont make a 2 laminate neck; it defeats the extra work even with straight grain hardwoods they could pull at certain spots that are joined with a weak grain and its not enuff to hold it back and even just for looks stay with uneven # of laminates 1,3,5,7,9 etc. hope that helps, but it problly means you have to spend mo' money i read your msg again and i get why you wanted to use the ash in the neck ;so it looks all funky cathedrals and what not in the neck; but theres no excuse to use 'soft' maple; that would be a waste of your time; but died ash would be a cool idea for the neck, if it was show piece you dont plan on playing

no.......... i mean strap buttons; as in the buttons to hold on the strap; WHICH i can only find in sets of endpins for acoustic guitars

i run the back across my bandsaw for the belly cut( more shaping after with the rasp; but its the best way i find to get a good straight start; lil risky feeling sometime) and over the jointer for the arm 'rest'; draw a line whre you want it to be and make that to the edge of your planer hold it on a lil angle and joint it off

lets cut this down a bit; i need plastic strap buttons; stew mac only sells individual wooden ones and their plastic ones are only with a 290 endpin sets anybody? lookin for like 200+ sets

its true that for the most part rosewood dosent need oil; but it makes a good lubricant if your getting out scratches from fret dresses or any other random scratches; i wouldnt advise tung oil though; its a personal preference but tung oil builds a finish which means although it IS soaked in the wood it also sits on the wood which i hate; which is also why i'll never play a maple board; .............even though i made one