Vince D

Ive built about 4 electric guitars before, but Ive always wanted to make a classical. I started this project when I was 15 and got to mad at it to finish it. So now 3 years later. I have alot of spare time and I would love to complete it. I started with some Bolivian Mahogany that was my grandfathers. The wood is probably 50+ years old. I also got western red cedar for the top, and cocobolo for the back and sides. I have a book called guitarmaking tradition and techonolgy by william cumpiano. One problem Im seeing is the cocobolo is twisted on the sides and back. Its been laying flat for a few years. I was Thinking about starting the back and sides over and using walnut. Also the first time I glued the veneer on the head stock it came off while I was filing the neck. Now Its almost impossable to gule and veneer on there. any tips?

What type of finish are you using?

I have made a neck for my strat out of it, and it is fairly hard. I found it not that hard to shape for how dense it is.

I was speaking of scale lenght. I was figuring the bass body was all prerouted and all. And if the guitar bridge was placed that far back you wouldnt have acces to man frets.

I would get piece of mahogany and fill up the neck pocket up with it, and then re rout to the new neck demensions. I dont think it would be the smartest to use a bass body for a guitar. A basses bridge is placed to far back for a guitar.

Im about to start fretting a few guitar necks, and so far I have been putting the frets in hammering. I know fret pressing is easier, but is it worth the money to buy one. Are there any others besides the ones on stewmac that would be a little cheaper.

A good pick up for blues/jazz is the seymour duncan jazz model, but I have only seen it used as a neck pick up.

I think 25.5 is the most comon scale lenght. Its used by fender and others. I think gibson uses a 24.75. The smaller the scale lenght the closer the frets will be together. The String spacing is determined by the nut size. Be sure to allow for about a 1/8 inch space between the edge of the fret bord to the out side string, so its not hanging over the edge. This can help find the neck angle http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...p;hl=neck+angle . As for the headstock angle its usually betwee 13 to 15 degrees. Good luck

What type of wood is that nice deep red piece your using for the neck?

I dont think its from contamination. Its like a foggynesss kind of like finger prints on it. I can rub it, and the directicon of the streeks will change. I am not the best at explaining. On the head stock its only a few spots on the top and right side. Oil makes it a little better but a little still comes back.

It only weights 8.5 pounds which is less than what I thought it would be when I started making it.

This guitar took a while. It has some very beautiful wood. It has a nice piece of massacar ebony for the neck. Jatoba body, and a cocobolo fret board, The pickup covers are wenge. Im not sure if i will keep them covering the pick ups, I was just trying to think of something new. It has a french polish finish on the front and head stock.Its going to have some pickups from an ibanez 370DX that im getting. http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Vince_D/CIMG0628.jpg http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Vince_D/CIMG0633.jpg http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Vince_D/CIMG0629.jpg It still has a few small things to do to it then its done.One thing I am dissapointed in is that the head stock is a little cloudy.

Could make a templet of a regular explorer, and then just flip it over to make the reverse design.

This is what I use http://www.floydrose.com/instructions.html

You could not be flattening the scraper enought in the first step. You should be able to feel quite some burr on it. Also what i do is not go directly to the 80 degree angle, but slowly get there you should put some what amout of force on this, enough to curve the scraper as you move the shank across. also before you try to sharpen it, make sure there is no burr on the edge already. Run it flat aginst a piece of sand paper to make sure its flat. Also when you cut with it you can get better cuts by bending the scraper, so it has some what of a rounded point, as you push it through the wood. I use an attachment on my file when making the burr. Its just a long metal with a clamp that you put your file in and it makes a side with the 90 degree agle. they are fairly cheap.