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Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. Wow - bad luck Pete. That's pretty harsh to hear you know? I can't help this....didya clock da clatty bastirts? Seriously though - it's a real shame you're not making it into a 12. I do love that cherry burst however!
  2. Thanks Rich - staining is one my major concerns, especially as i'm planning on using maple - de-ionised water sounds like a given on this one I guess. I suppose that thinning the maple down to less than is usually used for acoustic sides will help with pliability, but i'm wondering at which point this can become a problem with the curly grain cracking out. I suspect that 1.0mm to 1.5mm is a good zone to aim for. Thicker than veneer, thinner than sides. If push comes to shove, making a mould won't be a huge job but perhaps a little wasteful for this one job? The same thinking applies to using a $160 electrical iron. I was considering using simple readily available 0.6mm veneer, but it seems to wrinkle and dirty up very easily. I may try it anyway to see how it goes, but something more substantial and "real" feels better to me somehow.
  3. Do you have any updates on this one Pete? This is a great build.
  4. Interesting. I'm planning a build with the "neo archtop" style inner core, but also bending wood used for acoustic sides to "veneer" the outside of this core. That way I can justify using a generally unattractive wood (plain maple) for the core and other internal pieces, and not worry about turning a beautiful figured billet into router chips and dust. I am planning on bending the "sides" using a heated pipe as I can't justify the expense of a pre-built bending iron at this stage. The veneers themselves are only going to be 1-1/2" wide maximum so I think moulds would be overkill....any caveats or advice on this, such as issues with scorching, estimating pipe temperature, staining during the bending process etc?
  5. i said no more posting, as in no more threads for people to not care about... Yeah, okay whatever. If you guys want to chew each other out over something outside the scope of this thread then by all means take it to PM. This has no relevance here.
  6. Yeah - possibly even enough to make another neck despite that check in there....still, great job - keep on moving!
  7. With that exacting attitude, I can't see how you can go wrong....keep working on those lines and you'll do well as long as you don't stress over a newspaper sheet's thickness here or there :-D At least I can't perceive your threads having the word "Bondo" creep in. That stuff needs to be divorced from the lands of luthiery.
  8. Allparts sell buttons on their own in pairs and in bulk packs....
  9. Good lad Marky - carrying on the well-worn tradition of keeping the two pastimes that should be together, together. I can't see how fishing could be added to that mix however.
  10. My local plastic shop can get colored sheets that I can use for binding. As for 1.3mm side dots, I know I've seen colored rods that could be used for that application. The idea is that some of those places might have what you're looking for even though its not listed on the web. Here's another example: http://www.professionalplastics.com/TURCITEXRODRED I say call 'em up and see what they can do for you. A bit of a faff for me since i'm in the UK, and for what it's worth i'm going to use the copper tube coring method. Will that Turcite actually glue up? It sounds like it would be a bit of a problem, being "internally lubricated". Might also be problematic in finishing. Anyway.
  11. Thanks for the link guitar2005 - the gauges they sell are a minimum of 1/4" which would be great for inlays but too large for side dots. The other solution would be to core out dots from sheet acrylic etc. using David Myka's side-dot technique. Mount some copper (David uses silver IIRC) tube into a pillar drill and gradually bore out dots.
  12. Hey Doug – any chance you would be willing to do me a few headstock caps with logo inlays?
  13. I'm still on my search for yellow plastic cocktail sticks or similar. Scale model shops and catering suppliers are a possibility also.
  14. Thanks Wez. Oil and wax have always been my weapons of choice as I choose nice woods to show off, but this is one I really do want to get refinished in a nice Olympic white.
  15. Egh. Daz white. I'm actually refinishing my ESP/Edwards Explorer in white soon Wez. Who does you spray work for you, and would they be able to help me?
  16. Thank you for the info. It was just a small question, and imho related to the topic (in a similar way as: what made you use brown as a colour for example). And I believe this is a forum. Ontopic: Looking good so far! Really like the headstock as well. No offence - just take it in the way it was meant, that's all. Okay, nice! I'll keep my eyes open for it Haha okay One pretty odd thing with a specific part on Finland, is that they only learn Swedish. Jakobstad is one os those cities. Feels pretty odd that they can't speak Finnish, yet they are from Finland Pietarsaari? Just as weird as Ahvenanmaa!
  17. Yeah I really took the time to get the string pull straight, and it turned out nice. It's a bit small though, the headstock is shorter than the headstock on my mom's acoustic six-string, and I have seven tuners I don't consider myself experienced enough to tackle a set neck, so I didn't want to take the risk. I will try neck-through on my next project though, or maybe set neck, can't decide. Yes, it will have 24 frets. Okay nice! Post pics when you've started working, sounds really interesting! Haha so you know a little Swedish? I've got a few other projects i'll be pursuing before the EXP neck, but then again I do have a huge old piece of Honduran mahogany and a Macassar fingerboard which i've set aside for this purpose, so it may be within the next 2-3 months. Not sure! My wife is Finnish, so we have all kinds of language flying around this house :-D
  18. CAD is generally 2D work so you wouldn't model a carved top with it. I've never used Solidworks myself - I used TurboCAD which is cheap enough to buy. Please take it to a new thread unless it's directly related to discussing this build Dirge. Thx.
  19. I do all my work in CAD first of all. Your headstock looked like you'd worked out the string pull properly, so I kind of guessed you did it in CAD first! I think you could have quite easily made this build a set neck, but without a neck pickup, the tenon would show of course. With the 27" scale, are you popping a full 24 frets on? Mine is going to be a six-string still so I can always go back to using the "standard" neck. Just an extension of the scale length with an identical headstock to increase tension slightly on open C tuning. Whilst i'm at it, I may cut an EXP template from the body as a good friend in Arkansas is wanting me to build him one. Ett bra jobb!
  20. Reclaimed wood is awesome, especially as it tends to be old slow growth wood! It makes you sick thinking that somebody has probably whacked nails into it however.
  21. Great work! I'm considering building an extended scale neck for my black LTD EXP-200 although i'll probably go for either 27.5" or 26.73" (30" minus first two frets). I like the modified KL headstock - it suits the seven nicely! I see you've marked in a volute already....can't wait to see this one develop. Are you sticking with just the one pickup?
  22. Hmmm. Interesting - good point. I could possibly patch a jack across the momentary switch on the sampler's encoder knob and have an external footswitch to duplicate it's function. I bet the rotary encoders Yamaha use are a pain to access and tinker with though....
  23. Sounds good Mick. I'm after something a little different in that I want to switch programs and have a sequence start button on a floorboard. I'm going the other way and want to cut having drummers and all that out of what I do.
  24. I think DSDesigns could do well by going through your six string build Phil.
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