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Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. To expand the compressed wood fibres underneath? I did that on some Koa I dented on a headplate and it works sweetly! COnsidering pushing out the dents on my natural mahogany Explorer that way. Good call. Would the wood around the dent push the finish away slightly or is this a non-issue on "non-dented" wood?
  2. I would suspect that the edge cracks in the lacquer may show on a drop fill. I would try a drip of acetone to reflow the sharp edge and a CA drop fill. Can anyone corroborate my thinking on this one? Sorry to be so non-committal to a plan of action Marco but I'm still learning myself in a lot of areas and it would be nice if I was thinking correctly. I wouldn't want to give you bad advice :-D
  3. I wouldn't go as far as to call Mike Rayburn a virtuoso by any stretch of the imagination. Interesting to watch once, a little cringe-worthy in places but I wouldn't buy the season ticket :-D Good for him I say. Tenacious D? Light-hearted and fun, and it's nice that rock can dig itself in the ribs for a few laughs!
  4. Apologies - yes, superglue. Drop filling dents with CA works on gloss finishes as it polishes up a treat. It really depends on what finish the neck has. I'm sure somebody more technically knowledgable than me can compare the compatibility issues with your specific finish. Is the wood itself dented, or just the finish? Are there any cracks or chips? These can all affect the results.
  5. Drop fill with CA and sand back.
  6. Phenomenal work! What price do you do on your typical commission?
  7. It's been said, but in general - clean new strings as opposed to a specific brand. A brand may give you the sound of clean strings for longer. I prefer Dean Markley Blue Steels although I do end up changing them a lot. Ernie Balls seem to die off fairly quickly, but are cheap. D'Addarios seems like a good compromise. Never liked the Elixirs. DR Black Beauties looked cool, but didn't last. Either go for nice strings are restring half the time or go for "standard" strings which are more affordable and string more often. Prevail: I find that a little too with DM Blue Steels. Stretching them after fitting and retuning solves that problem :-D
  8. Thanks Jon - I've borne this one in mind and used it sparingly so as not to contaminate the woods.
  9. Thanks for the shellac tip Erik. It was a consideration as I've been using acetone to pull dust out of the grain so far, but it seems to lift the majority and set the rest deeper The dark marks on the maple are actually me being clumsy and almost throwing a bottle of black dye around the room instead of eaking a small amout out to dye the inside of the truss rod adjustment slot. Not sanding dust! No, I wasn't pouring it in before anybody suggests it I was just too close your honour. Any issues with shellac and Tru-oil, as that is the destined finish for the project? I have to say that the Tru-oil tests I've done on scrap padauk and bloodwood are *spectacular* with a capital "spectacular".
  10. Update - radiused the 26 fret fingerboard and mounted it (with rod adjustment slot at 24th fret). Bound the fingerboard, sanded with a radius block and angled the binding off the edges slightly. PICTURE 2 PICTURE 3
  11. Mmmm. Guitar snacks. Did you get a fondant centre or was it nutty inside?
  12. You can tend a persons mindset if they think the leaves look like weed first instead of Japanese Maple (we have one in our garden too!). I thought they looked like weed too though. Heh.
  13. I would throw it through a thickness sander using many light passes back and front (so the feed rollers don't "de-cup" it before sanding) and see if it cups further a few weeks down the line. Then burn it if it did. Actually, I take that back. Soak it in petrol overnight then burn it whilst putting it through a thickness planer!! That would be so awesome.
  14. Where did you acquire the inlays? They're pretty nice. I see Will has pretty much been emptied of stock for the year then!
  15. Thanks :-D I'm just in the process of routing the binding channels and wishing I'd done them before shaping the neck. Poo.
  16. http://www.kbguitars.com/gallery/view.php?gid=14 That has a body made of Manzanita, and as the builder says "it's one of the hardest woods he knows of". If it's stable and holds frets well enough I can't see why you can't use it, hence my initial disbelief that Warmoth don't offer padauk boards! Go for it, but be sure to post your results here as you go! I for one would be interested in seeing how it turns out :-D
  17. Shame I can't get ahold of Grampian Powertools online. I'll probably source from David Dyke as he seems to have got an online catalogue running now. That said, if your guy's prices are right.... :-D For comparison: David Dyke's (luthierssupplies.co.uk) Wenge/Bubinga 1100 x 60 x 6mm - £7.80 Rosewood 1100 x 60 x 6mm - £20.00 Ebony 1100 x 60 x 6mm - £24.00 I am pretty interested in your guy's spalted beech however. I've always wanted a natural pale wood LP with a Korina or spalted beech top....
  18. Any chance you could let me in on your supplier there, Pete? I would love to introduce a third ebony laminate into my Thunderbird neck tenon similar to THIS.
  19. Heh! Well, I can't really leave it unfinished as the neck is mostly maple with bloodwood laminates. If they oxidise to brown over time, such is life I guess. I would rather have brownish laminates than dirty maple!
  20. I would personally use either two rods, carbon reinforcement or perhaps stiff wood laminations in the neck (ebony, etc). I love the shape of your Strat-o-looker. Very streamlined and well designed. Well done on being from Scotland too. My wife and I enjoyed our honeymoon there :-D
  21. Jon: Exactly what I thought. I'm a little suspicious of the open pore structure though, as I'm sure it would dirt up over time. Thanks for all your support guys, I'm hoping to make PG proud with this project :-D
  22. On reflection i'm considering epoxying the board and leaving the Tru-oil for the body and neck. That said, I can do sixty coats. Maybe.
  23. Thanks Travis - my wife and me have been watching The Hostel tonight and I'm more interested in how to bind the fretboard. I have some laminated ebony binding from Stewmac that I'm toying with using around the board. Shame I only have a limited amount of the binding because I bet would look very cool bent around the body also, although I can't see it liking some of the tighter radii curves....
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