thisllub

Beautiful guitars indeed in every way. I have quite a bit of lacewood but unfortunately not large enough for making bodies and I don't consider it strong enough for necks. I have about 10 acres of land that I am re-foresting and Lacewood will grow here along with the other Silky Oaks Grevillea Robusta and Orites Excelsa. I hadn't considered it before but now it is a must.

Doyle Dykes signature Maple back and sides spruce top. Nice but not worth the price.

Inspiring looking joint. I am fascinated by a good joint. This book sucked me in a long time ago

I used a sanding disc on my angle grinder to start. Gets you close really fast, then move to a plane,beltsander,spokeshave,surform,chisel, anything and everything. Most important is to know what you are aiming for. I left my neck too wide until I glued the fingerboard on then used the router table with a straight trimmer bit to get the sides accurate. A spokeshave is really the best for getting the final profile right before sanding. Pics soon.

That is the Chet Atkins / Lenny Breau right hand harmonic. Brilliant when mixed with pull ofs around the same fret (esp 7). Listen to Doyle Dykes or Tommy Emmanuel and you will get what I mean.

The best way to a good routing job is to make yourself a template. Plunge routers have template guides which are like a barrel that the bit protrudes from that will follow the inside of a template. Get a piece of MDF and draw the exact shape you want then trace outside the shape exactly the distance between the cutter edge and the outside of the template guide. Cut this shape out of the MDF with a jigsaw. Sometimes you can even do this with the router on a table. Clamp this template securely where you want to rout and you can do a professional looking job. Make sure the clamps cannot fail. Use more than 2. I made this mistake the first time I tried this. I used a cheap clamp and it broke leaving a gouge in a bed rail.

I am doing this on a bass I will post my findings. I am a bit confused by the need for truss rods at this point. I have never touched a truss rod in 25 years of playing. I am guessing that well seasoned timber in an environment with stable humidity is far less likely to need adjustment than guitars in climates where the humidity drops too low and temperatures are extreme.

Hello, my first post here. I have a fair amount of Lacewood (they call it Silky Oak up north) I bought at auction for a good price.and I wouldn't use it for a neck without some serious reinforcement. It is not very strong and very coarse grained. I have about 100 metres of 100 x 40 in varying condition from very good to poor. I haven't considered using it on a guitar yet. There are better local hardwoods that I am working with. Good luck.