anderekel

I gotta agree with wes on the cutout there. I think that instead of a V sort of shape you should make more of an O. Maybe something more like this http://www.edroman.com/guitars/quicksilver...g_06006_950.jpg But not quite as deep, more of an oval I think.

Ok, don't take this as being mean or anything just to preface. I noticed this on that stratish type guitar you posted a bit ago as well. Your heal looks like it's gonna be uncomfortable. Now, I say this because, while it's all nice and shallow lookin' and looks comfortable as is, once you add the ferrules in there I think at least one of those is gonna be sticking out and hitting your hand as you move around it. Except for that I really like it. It looks really cool.

I say you get this one http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...detail&p=33 I've wanted to actually see one on a guitar for a while. Oh, damn, I just noticed you said it had to be gold. Go with the kahler then. You might even want to look at the kahler hybrid, that has a set screw that you can set it to be fixed or floating, in case you ever decided you wanted to mess with a trem, gotta route a little with that one though.

If you're goin' by color alone, vintage white seems to be more of a green tint as well, instead of the cream color of what you showed.

As far as a technical sense would be, off white would be the paint is tinted like that. The vintage white on an actual vintage instrument would be white paint and the clear has tinted over time. Otherwise I don't know.

Assuming it's a new amp just take it back to the store. I highly doubt it's something you did.

I like option 1 for the necks. As far as the pickups I'd say 1 as well.

Yeah, the ibex planes have a rounded bottom. This is the one I just got http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...amp;cat=1,41182 Letter B (the curved one). Haven't gotten to use it yet, but yeah, it looks to be very good quality, like the rest of their stuff. As far as advantages or disadvantages, if you like using planes go with the plane, if you like using chisels and the like, go with the gouge, that's really all I can say. Oh, the gouge will take off more at a time, whether that's good or bad, but they can take off pretty much however much material you want.

I have a half stack in my bedroom. It's a 200 watt 4x12 I believe, I'm usin' an orange tiny terror (15/7 watt tube amp) and I can't turn it up very far when I have the gain up. I would say if you want to go with an amp head and a speaker cab for your room, go with a smaller tube amp head (apparently there are some pretty nice, low watt heads goin' for only a couple hundred, that's what people on this forum have said anyway) and go with a 1x12 or at 2x12. You'll be able to push the tubes a bit and it won't be as loud.

Ok, so I've only built two necks, the second one was with help from someone who's built a bunch of guitars though, so I learned a decent amount. The way we did it was Route trussrod channel slot the board when it's square Cut the top and bottom of the fretboard how you want it to be when done (so nut slot and whatnot) Cut the taper into the board and route it Cut the taper into the neck and route it Shape the heel of the neck (round the corners basically) Cut and shape the headstock Thickness headstock Drill tuner holes Glue the fretboard and neck together (be very careful that it all lines up, lots of clamps) Shape the neck Flatten the fretboard to get rid of any high spots Radius Fret I believe that's everything. With doing the tapering of the board and all that you can also taper the board first and then use that as a template for the router to route the neck. As far as slotting goes, I would slot the board before you taper it, much easier to make sure that the board ends up nice and square. I guess if you have your center line on the board you could do it when it's tapered, but I would say slot it first, just seems easier to me. If the slots end up not deep enough, you have the saw and can deepen them a little. Really though, do it however you want and you'll figure out how you like to do it. Throughout these boards I think I've seen necks done 10 or 12 different ways (that's probably exaggerating but yeah, you get the point).

It's a gouge. They come in all sorts of sizes. Personally I would prefer to use a rounded plane, but I don't really like chisels and gouges.

Well, judging by the pickups a tiesco of some sort. Where'd you get the pickups anyway? And let me know how they sound would ya? I've always thought they were cool lookin'.

Ditto to what they said. I would also throw out that Millers Falls made very nice planes, that's what most of mine are. I have a 9", 14", and 22" one as well as a lie nielsen block plane (which is amazing) and just got a veritas plane but have yet to use it (it's also a round bottom plane, so different from this conversation I guess). I suggest Millers falls for at least a couple reasons. 1) they are not as well known as stanley so you can get them cheaper many times. 2) they are just as good as stanley and better quality after stanley's quality dropped during world war II when they started casting larger pits in the frogs. I guess that's all I can think of.

Nice, that's how I did my first fretboard. How I tapered it anyway.

That's exactly what I was thinkin' John. I would say you should bind it. I think it would look great bound.

Just so you know Hector, your English is fine, better than a lot of people I see typing on the internet.

Yeah, that's what I meant to say, carve it like an archtop. Can't say I've ever heard of that being done.

as daft as it sounds i would definately check this. my dining room table is like a pringle. you cant see it till you lay something flat over the top I am suprised you don't eat it.hahaha ...Cheers Wez. Why? Pringles suck....

Ooooh, if you make your own box you should do a carved top cigar box guitar, that would be cool. I think anyway

Yep.

Like I said the last time when he was trying fix up the whole guitar, let the guy have some fun. He's just trying to experiment and learn something from this without spending a lot of money, not really something to call a car crash or train wreck or whatever. Even if things don't turn out so well for him he'll still have learned from it. As far as scale length goes, I don't know how short, but I think I recall that the guitar he took the neck off of was pretty small anyway, so it might work out fine. Definitely check that out though space. SJE, the original guitar was truly ****, there was really no way to make it into anything worth doing at all. That was the general consensus between everyone here.

Wow, I don't know if I should say what that looks like..... Looks cool though

Yeah John. Both of those are just cheap end nippers that are ground flat. Just go to sears or wherever and buy a small cheap pair of them and grind'em yourself on a grinding wheel or a belt sander (stationary belt sander).

Damn, that's bad if you're too much of an asshole to be in kiss..... Awesome job on the guitar. Turned out awesome.

Are you lookin' at ebay to get it? Cause if you're getting it directly from the guy, like off craigslist or something, then just see if he'll let you go over there and give it a try. As far as the peavey goes, I have a peavey studio pro 112 and have messed around with a bunch of peavey's at the local store. I haven't tried that specific one though. Looking it up it looks like it's my amp with one more channel and one more speaker and a little more power. From using my am (also has transtube technology) it sounds pretty good to me, I like it, worth keeping around anyway even though I have a little orange tube amp now. It doesn't sound like tubes, I mean, it's SS, it never will, but it does sound pretty good. Judging by what I've seen, if you can use that much power and can get it at a decent price (assuming it works fine) then by all means go for it.