Ace

The problem would not be the method of levelling the frets, it would be measuring the neck and calculating the optimum fret profile. Actually the Plek pushes the strings aside when manipulating the frets, so the guitar stays strung toroughout the process. so long ace

Yup that's what I thought, too but I am still not 100% sure if it's the same in Germany because we have the metric system, so I figured it would make sense to use a square centimeter as a reference point, meaning that 100 grit metric would equal roughly 654 grit (2,54 ^ 2 x 100). But as of now I've found some German online shops that have sanding paper up to 800 grit and more. It was only because the tool store I was in (Hela, if that rings a bell Soapbar) didn't carry anything above 150 grit that I thought about this possibility and feared I might need to set up a "grit conversion chart" when following tutorials involving sanding from American writers. I think I'll ask my dad if he knows where the grit number on German sandpapers comes from, maybe he knows, but maybe it's already such an industry standard that everybody knows how 400 grit sandpaper looks but nobody knows why it's called 400 Thanks for the info so far guys, I'll post if I have any confirmed results so long ace

That's a hot candidate for my next signature change But back on topic, I don't have that syndrome, but sometimes when I play something really hard and fast I pass out from holding my breath, which is especially embarrassing on stage... just kidding, seriously, I think you need to have a neurologist examine you, could be the way you position yourself while playing (sitting, I suppose), perhaps something wrong with blood circulation due to crooked sitting. I wanted to write "don't f*ck with your body" but then I realized how stupid it would sound so I'll write take care of your health. so long ace

Slick! Are those three pieces or do you have another pinstripe in there? in the upper part is looks like there's a darker pinstripe in there, but it could also be glue residue (somebody shoot me for that rhyme). What is the wood on the outsides? I'm not yet anywhere near telling woods on eyesight except for telling maple apart from mahogany (although they both start with "ma", go figure) so long ace

Okay, the cheapshot return would have been "I bet your girlfriend told the same to her friends..." Nah seriously, I didn't have the chance of playing the Variax, but from what I read it emulates the guitar types as well as the Line6 amps emulate the original amps, which is okay when you need the versatility and dont have that 100% purist approach. If you want the original, buy the original, if you're in for a compromise for the sake of flexibility and saved $$$ go for it. To each his own, and I think the Variax design may not be the coolest ever made, but at the same time it's not meant as a showoff guitar, so what the heck. so long ace (the mean twin)

I'm so gulping on a lowshot return on this one, but being too much of a newb in here I don't want to rub anybody the wrong way, if only in jest. so long ace the precautious

I have a video of IA explaining some of his insane harmonics techniques, he definitely is the M4$T4 of natural harmonics...he uses the whammy bar as a support, though, depressing it slightly just before he hits the harmonic, then letting the bar return and then vibrating the hell out of it. so long ace

How about a real 100 mm mixing console fader, that would look...unconventional so long ace

As appalling as the thought itself is, I would like to hear what the fire department and/or police would diagnose as the reason for the fire... so long ace

Heya folks, when you (english speaking ppl in general) talk about sanding paper you mention "grit". Although I know the meaning of the word from the context (how fine or coarse your sandpaper is), I have a question about that: Is the number that you give for "grit" the number of "abrasive grains" (I told you the language barrier was coming) per square millimeter? square centimeter? square inch? Or is it just an industrial standard number? Not being the worlds greatest handyman and thus being inexperienced I walked into the tool shop today and noticed that their sandpapers were classified by "grains per square centimeter". Is that the same grit you're using? I don't want to buy sandpaper by the number and then have the wrong one rip through my body like the hot knife through butter, obviously so long ace

Apart from their Berlin custom center, home of the Plek, there are two shops in germany that have a Plek machine, one is the shop right down my street I bought my ESP custom off of ebay, and the frets were pretty beat, oxidized and played like crap. The day I got it, I brought it down there and had it Plek'd. The tech set action at about 80% of the possible "lowness". It plays simply amazing. I have yet to play on a better Superstrat. It sure is expensive, but it can turn a neck with crappy frets into an pretty good one, I'm sure it can turn a neck with good frets into a fantastic one. so long ace

It's 16 x 40 x 590 millimeters. I wasn't at home when the auction ended, and the guy had two other pieces of lumber on sale that I was interested in, but one of those was only 400 millimeters in length. The third one had perfect measurements, and I'd have been able to get a couple of boards out of it I think, but sure as hell I was out-bid for 50 cents on that thing. Anhow, for 8,50 + shipping I figure I can just as well give the laminated fingerboard idea a try, and 16 millimeters divided by 2x2 would result in 4 millimeters which would be just sufficient for two fretboards. Thanks for the info guys, if all else fails I'll just keep the piece for smacking myself over the head once in a while for bailing out on that other auction so long ace P.S.: yeah Danno, I thought about that, too already, violin fretboards should be narrow enough, not sure about the mandolin thing.

In addition to that, I think there wolud be a risk of breaking the Fretboard when you slot it and push the frets in the slots without having the fretboard glued to the neck, as well as transportation problems, since I imagine the fretboard being more fragile in the fret areas because of the thinner wood. so long ace /€dit: btw, Hi Bill ;-)

Hey guys, I just won an ebay auction on a slab of Rio Rosewood, which I was planning to make a fretboard of. Unfortunately when placing my bid, I did not notice the measurements of the board. It was only later that I found out that the block is only 40 millimeters wide, which of course is not enough for a guitar fretboard. Now here's my question: The block is thick enough that I could cut two boards from it and laminate the fretboard, "bookmatching" it. Have any of you ever done such a thing, is it generally possible, or would you not recommend this? I was thinking to center the lamination, so that the laminated edges are between the d- and g-string, so I won't have to come in contact with the laminated edge with any string (bendings on the g-string nonwithstanding). I was also thinking about integrationg the fretboard inlay by maybe laminating a thin strip of maple in between, from which I could also make position markers directly, although that would be more complicated and require more precision work on the fretboard halves. Are there any chances that I can make a halfway decent fretboard with any of these techniques or should I consider it as expensive fireplace wood? so long ace

I hope so ;-) well, what I initially wanted to write in that post but forgot along the typing was that the main problem I think I'm going to have is that you guys have brand names that might not be as widely available in the old world I reckon, so any recommendatioins from European members would be appreciated (glue, finish lacquers, stuff like that). I'm not sure as to the percentage of European (or even German) users on the board, but once I have more of an overview I think it would be not too bad of an idea to start a thread about European brand names and suppliers...we will see so long ace

Behold The Illuminates Number That Is My Age 11111111111111111111111 in unary (haha, out-geeked j00 all ) so long ace

Hi folks, I thought I'd introduce myself before I jump right in and start offending people by being impolite. My name is Andreas, I'm a 23 year old student of computer and communications engineering in south west Germany. I've been making music for the better part of my life, starting on keys at age 6, moving to guitar at 13 and taking a couple years of drum lessons along the way. Oh, and I also sing ;-) I currently own the following guitars and related gear: - Raimundo classical guitar, the one I learned my first chords on, the original sin - Yamaha APX-7A spruce top steelstring acoustic - A strat copy handcrafted in Poland, it says LANG on the Headstock, but he's not related to the New Zealand based Lang Guitars. My first electric guitar. Modified with a bridge humbucker in 1998 - My current main axe: Esp Custom Strat with OBL singlecoils and OBL Humbucker in the bridge position, ESP Floyd Rose licensed tremolo, pink custom graphics finish. - Hughes&Kettner ZenTera digital modeling ampflifier I'll post pictures if requested. I've been thinking about building my own guitar(s) for quite some time now and coming across this site really made me go "man, if there are so many resources on guitarbuilding and so many guys get great results out of it, I should really try it". So currently I've been getting some parts off of ebay to experiment with (cheap bodies, hardware, still no necks, they're expensive as hell) and some literature to go with it. One major problem is that I don't have access to most of the wood resources that I've found on the net, because they're mostly overseas, but I know some woodworkers and I'm almost positive that I can get what I need at reasonable prices. I believe that I've found the ideal starting point and I hope I'll be able to contibute one thing or another along the way, too so long ace

Here you go, about the best I can do for now Actually, I understood it better BEFORE it was translated... so long ace