fidgec94

if you woudnt mind

Thats great, pretty much what i wanted to hear. I thought it was possible but wanted to check first. Unfortunately i dont have a template but i reckon i'll manage without

Etonian....what a name, even sounds Earl and lord-ish!

Same here dude, i did GCSE electronics (but forgotton alot of it now). I still take an interest and look for stuff like schematics that are of interest. I have loads of sites and info ive gathered, sheesh what a geek! One day i will put it all to use and i WILL 1.Build an amp 2.Build some effects 3.Most importantly, build a splitter so i can use it all!!

If i had a choice, i would not be living in Slough. Ho-hum, only 6months left here

I know this seems obvious but just thought i i'd mention this for anyone planning to work on a valve amp for the first time: Trannys in valve amps can produce a B+ in excess of 400v. Another hazard is accidently touching the contacts on a cap, the big ones can easily be storing 400v as well. Receiving a dose that high can be fatal. Hotrock, im certainly interested in any headway you make - let us know

If i can place the 'floyd' in the existing trem hole and still achieve the 25.5 scale, i'll be a happy bunny. All i would have to do then is drill the stud holes and do the recessed bit (i want to avoid plugging the hole, re-finishing and then routing properly for the floyd....yep im lazy!)

Yeah but would you give a monkey a knife and ask him to perform surgery on you?! I dont thin i could make a good enough job of it!

Its not a simple answer i guess. Yeah, the trem rout comparison thread probably is a good place to start. I dont own a router right now, i just wanna see how far i can get without major modifications (and buying a router of course). Anyone know about where to measure from on the bridge (see pic)?

I have a Floyd Rose licenced locking trem that i want to fit to a squire body i have. This is more of an experiment than anything. The body already has the routing for a normal fender tremolo. Anyone ever does this type of conversion? I would like to fit the new trem without any routing at first (this also means it wont be recessed at first). Do you think its possible to use the existing hole in the guitar? This is the body Thw warmoth says that on 25.5" scale fender, the distance between the heel and midpoint of the saddle is 7 1/8". 1.Does this mean that the saddles are in the middle of there range of travel so that there is equal forward and backward movement possible? 2.Where do i actually measure to on the bridge? (see pic below) Red arrow is what i think i should measure to

Yeah good idea, i'll have to clean and re-wire the whole thing. Gracias

I use a relatively cheap Marshall (MG15DFX) which is solid state and i dont get any feedback using either my jackhammer pedal or the overdrive channel

Main problems i found is when it comes to combining modules. I'd find a good preamp by itself but not know how to tie it with a power amp from a different source (i can do basic electronics but i wouldnt know how to make sure the modules match properly with regards to resistance, current etc)

Solid state would be sooooooooooooooooooo much easier, no need for expensive and heavy transformers and there are millions of schematics out there for them. I will complete my project one day!

I dont know how much of this relevant, take from it what you will: Ive considered building an amp (a small 5-10w one like yourself), i even have a stripped Marshall 15w amp that i was gonna use for a cab. Nearly a year on, its still gathering dust Is it the transformers that you find expensive? I noticed that many self-builders use hammond transformers that have really specific uses. I became discourage quite quickly at the thought of importing loadsa stuff from the US. Although there were a couple on ebay evey now and again. I noticed that ppl were selling old valve amps on ebay, they would be good for parts and not to expensive as most being sold on there were broken or needed an over-haul. You might get lucky with a suitable tranformer there. I guess the really big caps are expensive Caps, resistors, pots and switches can all be obtained from maplin, i think they're quite reasonably priced. My top tip is the local tv repair shop, the bloke in my home town has all manner of crap lying around! Wiring will be cheaper if PCB's arent used, i dont really know all the different types of boards, but a popular method was litterally wires only. I guess an expensive part would be to buy a pre-made metal enclosure for the actual guts of the beast. I had a good tutorial for making one outta an old computer case (i'll have a look for it if you want), thats quite cost effective. All you gotta do then is fashion a cab out of some MDF and whack some vinyl over the top, cloth material for the grille (from ebay) and roberts you mother's brother Make your own cab or try and find one on ebay, or even an old crappy amp that you can gut yourself. The cab i have is a Marshall MG15DFX, just the cab and speaker. Example of stuff on ebay This isn't a bad site Another good 'un

Would a metal pickguard improve the sound over a plastic one?

Sunny sunny Slough. My friends think its hilarious that i live in Slough and my surname is very similar to Finch

No idea on the pot/cap values but there should definately be some kind of shield or braid to take to ground. The first time i looked at my pickups, i thought the same thing, i didnt understand that the shield/braid is normally taken to ground

Do you play close to the amp? Try moving further away Is the amp any good? Cheaper amps can sound really dodgy with the gain at 10 Some pickups can be potted with wax to reduce microphonic feeback (dunno if that applies here) Is the guitar set up correctly? Again i dunno if this applies, im thinking more about the height of the pickups Thats all i can think of, anyone else??

I paid something like £8/$16 for a 5way switch, doesnt sound cheap to me but im having issues with it. Theres noise when i flick from one position to the next, it doesnt always connect properly (sometimes i get a clean signal if even i have an overdriven amp). Could it be dodgy soldering or grounding issues or does this sound more like a naff switch? If naff whats a good replcement (uk-based preferably)

I also leave mine on overdrive most the time, havent really been able to find a good distortion setting i like. I am very impressed with it in general

It sounds like a really interesting idea, but it also sounds like it needs alot of practice and i'd probably end up wishing i hadnt done it. Actually, some guitars come with frets 21-24 scalloped, it might be worth starting with that. If it turns out bad, no biggie cos only 4 frets have been done.

Try this, its just some search results. If the link doesnt work, hit search at the top of the page

and in some pics, he looks about 200yrs old

Ah, Just looked at the RB and PBK...my last post was for the grip with the individual finger contours. Sorry