~davie

oh right. lol you know what would be good for that? put in a momentary push button on your guitar as a KILLSWITCH! that would be sick!

It should work, its essentially the same thing that you have. Black wire for signal, Green wire for ground and Bare wire. btw, what kinda switch are you using for the killswitch? DPDT, on-on?

here, try this. http://www.seymourduncan.com/images/suppor...cs/2h_1v_3w.jpg and then combine it with this for your kill switch http://www.seymourduncan.com/images/suppor...kill_switch.jpg not sure if this kill switch diagram is suited to what you're doing, but if it doesn't work out then let me know. I'll try to draw up a diagram

I seriously want to know why do people have them or consider having them? Killswitches on guitars that is..

What settings are you aiming for? 1: neck humbucker 2: neck coilsplit 3: neck humbucker +bridge humbucker 4: bridge coilsplit 5: bridge humbucker something like that? I don't think this is all possible using just a regular 5-way switch. Though I think its highly possibly to get this arrangement using a 5-way SUPERSWITCH (stewmac sells them). OR you can use a regular 3-way switch along with a push-pull pot. Which would yield something like this.. Push-Pull OFF 1: neck humbucker 2: neck + bridge humbucker 3: bridge humbucker Push-Pull ON 1: neck coilsplit 2: neck coilsplit + bridge coilsplit 3: bridge coilsplit And are you also looking for out of phase as well? If so then you probably need a 2ND push pull pot/switch.

thanks your response was very helpful yea im more interested in the process of building a guitar, I do realize this isnt gonna be an amazing quality guitar...i mean it is under 200 bucks.. but then again this would be the first guitar i ever build.. thanks for your help man You're welcome. By the way, to me painting a guitar is probably the one of the most difficult steps in putting together a guitar, especially if you want it to look half decent. lol So I suggest you research a bit on painting/finishing to obtain better results. Such as: -what paints are available to you -what primers, undercoat, topcoats are compatible with each other -safety (eg. toxicity, ventilation, etc.) -curing times between coats -where u plan on painting it, weather conditions, etc.. these are just a few things you have to think about And if you do buy the guitar kit that you mentioned, then I would probably recommend doing a solid color finish since it already comes with sanding sealer on it. I doubt it would accept any wood stains unless you sand off the sand sealer. But if you want to avoid all the trouble and hassle of painting, then I think the simplest thing to do is just a simple clearcoat for durability, either wipe-on or spray.

Looks like the insulation from vintage style cloth insulated wires. I have seen PVC insulation used to prevent string breakage at the sadles (SRV used it). Pull some insulation of a wire, slide it over the sring all the way to the ball, and if the length of the insulation is right it will look sometning like in the picture I've never tried it myself thou oh, lol. seems like it might be a tone killer though

what's the spacing between each saddle? (in millimetres if u can) btw, what's that white stuff hanging off of the saddles? :/

I assume that you're on a tight budget. It seems decent I guess. Atleast the body is made from mahogany. Guitarfetish sells even cheaper kits, I think. Not sure what they're stocking at the moment. But what is your objective here? -do you just want a cheap guitar to play? -or are you interested in the process of building your own guitar for fun, customization, etc..? If you're on a tight budget and just want something affordable and cheaper then you probably just find a similar on craigslist/ebay for less. But if you're looking to build a good/decent guitar then maybe you get acquire specific parts from various vendors to suit your tastes. (pickups, body, neck, etc.) But if this kit is ideal for what you want then maybe you should go for it. It seems decent enough. Though the quality/sound of the pickups are questionable, as are with most budget guitar kits. But that can be easily remedied; you can just replace them later on.

It's for a travel guitar, so aesthetics are only mildly important. The AlumaTone P's are bass pickups (but the folks at Lace say that their response is flat enough that they should be suitable for use in a guitar) that come as two separate pick-ups. They're typically mounted right next to each other, but I was thinking about mounting one near the bridge and the other near the neck. I'm looking for more of a difference than you can get simply by angling the pick-up. Ray yeah, that could work. They're like P-Bass style pickups, right? You can separate them and put one side closer to the bridge and the other side closer to the neck.

If you're looking for a temporary fix and simply MUST have those frets ring when you play, you can just slightly raise your string action. You can do this by raising the saddles higher. But just so you know, this might affect playability since the action is higher.

I'm not sure if you care for the aesthetic look of the build. What you could do is angle the pickup similar to a strat bridge pickup, but in this case angled the other way. Instead of having the treble poles closer to the bridge and bass poles closer to the neck, you can do vice versa; make the treble poles closer to the neck, whereas the bass poles closer to the bridge.

Hey Nalo, Thanks I appreciate it. I have the "lonestar" treatment on my fat strat copy combining half of bridge humbucker with a noiseless middle single coil. But the balance between the pickups isn't that great sounding. I likely prefer the glassy-sounding strat neck+middle position over that one(and opt out the noiseless middle for a regular one). So I'm going with HSH, using just a 5-way switch that will give me the 3 "two humbucker guitar" positions as well as 2 strat tones.

correction: its coil-SPLIT, not coil-tap coil split meaning its only using 1 out of the 2 coils on the humbucker. so yeah, essentially single coil mode.

The title and description says it all. Can someone post or direct me to some soundclips of this type of setup? I just want a general idea of the tone. "Coil-tapped Neck Humbucker(aka single coil mode) in parallel with a middle single coil pickup" I'm planning to do a very unconventional wiring scheme to a potentially HSH guitar. Thanks

What's the best way to remove DEFT lacquer or nitro? I want to refinish a body. I want to know the best way with the least damage to the wood. since i'm want to do a translucent finish to an ash body. sanding? chemical stripper? if i should sand it, then what grit should i use? or if stripper, then what type or brand? ps. the lacquer/nitro is fully cured btw.. there's a minwax wood stain on it too, is there a specific way to get rid of it? or can i just sand it?

thanks for the ideas guys. i managed to get them out using a drill bit that was just the size of the string hole and tapped out the ferrules from the other side

i want to remove the ferrules on my self-built telecaster so i can refinish it. Anyone know any good ways to remove them?

my current scheme is still kinda logical. which i COULD settle for. here's my setup in junction with 2 slide switches and a REGULAR 3-way switch off/off (basic mode) 1: neck only 2: middle only 3: bridge only on/off (neck parallel mode) 1: neck only 2: neck + middle in parallel 3: neck + bridge in parallel off/on (bridge series mode) 1: bridge + neck in series 2: bridge + middle in series 3: bridge only on/on mode is same as off/on mode, since i'm intending the 'bridge series' mode to take over as the main circuit when activated. seems reasonable and straightforward enough? what you guys think?

yeah i know, but i would like to keep the same look and movement as a normal 3-way switch. and limit the movement to 1,3 and 5 i was thinking about blocking the switches internal tab thingies that hold each position, but the internal roller thing might be too small to allow it to move smoothly if i were to block 2 and 4.

do you mean to block the positions 1 and 5? because that seems weird, like.. the switch isn't moving all the way i rather have positions 2 and 4 blocked, so that the switch lever can fully move just like how a tele 3-way should

yeah guys, i was thinking about that too, but the main concern, is how smoothly or naturally the lever switch will move I'm trying to make a neat and tidy customized telecaster setup i got 3 pickups, tele neck, strat middle, and tele bridge (essentially nashville-style) And I got 2 slide switches on it, the 1st switch is to turn on the neck pup on While the 2nd switch engages a series mode (and also negates the 1st switch) With a regular 3-way 2 pole lever switch i can get 2 series modes right now i plan to have: position 1: neck+bridge in series position 2: middle+bridge in series position 3: bridge only BUT IDEALLY, if i had a 3-way 4 pole lever switch i would do this instead: position 1: neck+middle in series position 2: neck+bridge in series position 3: middle+bridge in series -which is a more logical arrangement All in all, I'm trying to make something purely customized and personalized

check it out here http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_fenderpots.htm the one for jazzmaster/jaguar look similar to the standard pot or mini-pot, so MAYBE it'll fit

maybe, but it depends on what resistance rating your pots have. apparently for the rollers on a jaguar, the volume pot uses 1Megaohm, while the tone pot uses 50K ohm, both linear tapered. These are not typical of most guitars, which usually use 250K or 500K pots. But if u happen to find pots with those ratings and find a suitable way to attach them then you should be okay. This is assuming you that want to maintain the stock specifications of a jaguar. Otherwise any volume/tone pot should do, as long as you can attach them properly. Hope that helps. btw. if u need some specific fender parts, try going to Guitar Parts Resource website, just google for it

Hi guys, I'm trying to come up with some unique wiring scheme for my guitar, its got a combination of switches and such. I know of the StewMac's "Super Switch" http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...per_Switch.html But I prefer and strictly want a THREE-WAY switch (for simplicity's sake) No rotary switches please. lol. I want a lever switch. So do any of you guys know what I can do? Are their any suppliers that make 3-way lever switches with 3 or 4 poles (instead of 2)? Or is there a way to modify the StewMac Super Switch to make it 3-way instead of 5-way? PS. plz don't think i'm crazy. lol. I'm trying to come up with a scheme that utilizes 2 additional slide switches along with a 3-way lever for a simple BUT interesting arrangement. Thanks