Jump to content

Hector

Established Member
  • Posts

    405
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hector

  1. The mosrite has a carved top or something like that, and the SG has the bevels. because of this, I would say go for the yamaha. but it really doesn't matter what I think, you should choose whatever model you like to build. good luck and I like the humbuckers in the strat!
  2. In that case, this is a cigar box half mando. or a cigar box something. the next one will have 8 strings. this one is inspired by fred carlson's dreadnautilus. it's the mandonautilus. lol BTW the neck block is so huge because it's gonna be a bolt on (strat, taylor baby, style, not the acoustic way). and I will remove more wood once I get the thing routed for the neck.
  3. yesterday I started this small project. a cigar box mandolin. All the woods are stuff that was going to the trash, leftovers from a brazilian rosewood fingerboard, a piece of mahogany with some crazy grain and to get the cigar box I had to buy the last cigar that was inside (and I don't smoke ) got a lot done in just one day. but there's lot of work to be done. let me know what you guys think.
  4. you can make a battery box where the knot is! or some inlay.
  5. this is not a scarf joint, it's just a regular joint. I use this tecnique all the time to make neck stock thicker, so that it can be set in the body. If it's cracked, it should be repaired and refinished. And I've heard and read a lot about joints moving (creep?) but I've never seen that in real life. hard to tell just by looking at the pictures.
  6. That should do the trick! I've had to do this to my strat. and now it's perfect
  7. I'm not sure i like the design. I need some more time. but I don't dislike it. so it's a good sign. I do like the name! very cool. BTW how's your arm? gotta be extra careful when working with sharp or even dull blades.
  8. yes. you should make the radius tighter and I think that bending the wire after is been cut will be way harder then to radius it before cutting. if you bend before cutting you should get a more consistent result.
  9. I think you should tighten the screws all the way and see what happens. then you would find out that you're not supposed to do that. just try it.
  10. super thin CA would be just fine. no need to open the crack. just let the glue flow down into the crack.
  11. this is gonna be one good looking guitar. i love that rosewood neck!
  12. Hector - THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!! That was exactly what I wanted to see!!! Awesome; I owe you a bunch!!! hey mike! you're welcome. glad I could help you. btw, the guitar you built is awesome. nice work!
  13. I doubt that the "cheap" factory would use hide glue for the neck/body joint.
  14. and this is how it looks headstock back I hope this helps you mike.
  15. that's how I do it too. scarf on the headstock, hidden by the headplate on the front and some veneer on the back. I sometimes glue the ears at an angle to hide the scarf when viewed by the sides. i'm gonna do a drawing to post here soon.
  16. /i think the wenge neck would be sufficient. even without the CF strips. in my opinion if you're using a single action truss rod, don't add the CF strips. the wenge should be enough
  17. here we go again! the one piece guitar topic has been covered in this forum. I just don't see any advantages over a well built set neck guitar. and I wouldn't make a neck using basswood, it's just too soft. I think you should use the wood you got to make 2 or even 3 bodies (maybe the 3rd could be a 2 or 3 piece body) and get some maple, mahogany, etc, for the neck.
  18. does the neck has to be angled to use that bigsby? I like the design.
  19. nice!! bolt on or glued in neck?
  20. grain basically running the same direction as the sides
  21. +1 unplugged it will sound really really bad. don't do it. you can make a semi hollow, using pickups, you can use piezos, etc. but to make it 100% acoustic is just a waste of your time and your wood.
×
×
  • Create New...