JohnJohn

Just remember to clean the join area well after sanding.How are you cutting it apart?

I agree with Primal.Not to say don't ever do a compound,just suggesting to eliminate as many complications for a first project.It would be a better way to get a feel for the work too.

The contouring is different too,(depending on the year.).P-necks can feel fat and blocky,but they do have some good 'meat' to them.J-necks can feel faster.Like the man said,personal preference.

Another way is to outline the whole contour and draw a saw to almost the lines in a series of small cuts.Chisel it out and rasp/sand to level.You could also use microplanes.A large bandsaw is best.Several,(carefully planned),passes with a router,(almost like a handheld milling machine),could also work.Just be very careful with the router. And DON'T try to do body bevel's with a jigsaw.I've seen people try it and the end result isn't pretty,dangerous too.

Definately take your time and measure a lot.Measure twice cut once.But a little trial by fire can help too.Just don't do this with expansive wood orparts. Try building a few parts out of scrap wood,2"x4" or other such wood.It may not be the most desirable piece to use,but it will gve you a feel for the process.

The rod could be glued in place and causeing a bind that lets an internal washer float around.An adjustment may help.Also,try wiggling the nut.Some are loose and certain frequencies may cause it to rattle.

I wonder if that glue is anything like Weldbond.Weldbond is strong,BUT,according to the manufacturer if you clamp it to squeezeout point than the pressure heats the glue slightly and keeps the components from reacting correctly. Have you tried using a couple of pieces of tape?Sounds stupid,but that's what the Weldbomd people told us.

Is that bass an Alembic?It kinda looks like their fretboard style.

Could you post pics of the damage?

That would be kinda cool.Post any pics if you do one.

Good links.I like #1 better.But I like the tension dispersion of #2.A combo would be cool.

Between presses and a mallet I prefer to do fretting by hand.No reason,just personal preference.That might change if I had to doo 50 a day . Personally not crazy about gluing them in though.

Thanks a mill.

It's been a while so I might have this reversed.Is it Longer Scale = less tension or shorter scale = less tension?

I've made a couple of bodies out of oak,not bad.Not to high not to low,decent mids. Can be a bit of a pain to finish-very porous.Wasn't as heavy as I thought.

Absolutley,just as the pros are best case. Usually when everything comes together and the guitar is finished the different neck joins come down to personal opinion. As I said I like them all,it just varies on the piece. Also keep in mind that tone is also affected by what you load it with and your hardware.Wood plays a major part for certain,but you can temper it with the rest of the equation.

Generally it's considered that neck thru provides the best resonance transfer because there is nothing in the way,(ie-glue,air screws etc.),it's all wood.Also there is the added bonus of being able to shape the heel region a little more and not having to worry about plates,stripped screws,shimming etc.However,with a neck thru if the neck goes it's surgery time baby.There's no buying a new one. A bolt on lets you mix woods without a great deal of advanced woodworking,(I don't mean this i a negative way).You also get the added bonus of being able to adjust the pitch of the neck at will.However,with a bolt-on you have to make sure that you don't strip the screw holes and if the neck isn't set right it just won't work right. A glue in is mid ground between both worlds,in the pro and the con.Mixing woods,more direct tonal transfer,no stripped screw holes etc.However,if the neck warps....And If a glue in isn't set right,(pitch and alignment),it's a lot more work to get it out and reset it. Personally I like all three methods and don't have a favorite one.

Yes,25&1/2 has always been the standard Strat scale.

That looks great.The only problem with airbrushing and finishing your own guitar is constantly changing the image

If it is a set neck then glue,if it's a bolt on mask off first then spray.

Bingo,I thought that looked like a Harmony when I saw it.

The Benedetto book is worth every penny and more.In it he shows Ther routing jig he uses for carving tops and how to make the depth gauge that he uses.You can also use finger planes with a magnetic depth gauge.

For an inexpensive guitar you can slide a small thin washer between the plate and the gear.Also try pressing,(fron nut to heel or reverse depending on location),on the truss rod while it is rattling.

are all the saddle blanks that you are coming across too thick or too thin?

Have you adjusted the truss rod?If it dosen't have one,(don't laugh some lower cost ones don't),try the shimming.