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mattharris75

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Posts posted by mattharris75

  1. Inching toward the finish line. 

    I burnished the finish and put on a topcoat of Briwax,  got the bridge mounting posts and ground wire in, ran the pickup wires, and mounted the tuning machines. Unfortunately I'm missing a little hardware, so I can't get the pickup rings mounted, and need a few other small things to get everything buttoned up and call this one finished.

    PXL_20220109_231934969.thumb.jpg.ab592ef5dad28831324796ac602e975d.jpg

    PXL_20220109_232022505.thumb.jpg.7758374daab2c0d187f1c84901e54d91.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. On 12/4/2021 at 6:14 PM, mistermikev said:

    hats off.  that's looks fantastic.  I have done a tru oil gloss before... and I'll never do it again.  it is an incredible finish... but man do you have to work for it... or at least i did!  looks really great - nice work.

     

    Thanks. Both of these guys were full gloss Tru Oil, and they were certainly time intensive:

    920867_10154594298799325_6531297804252529400_o.thumb.jpg.60c5f7a17e3a15a1c9ee202c1ac884f9.jpg947326942_GBM1.thumb.jpg.1ce4afe73c044c4636a8f5e064278b1c.jpg

    But the results were good... 

    The Tried & True oil will never really get much beyond a satin finish, I don't think. And that's fine, that's what I was intending. The vision and the reality weren't necessarily correctly aligned this time, but it should still be a nice result.

    • Like 2
  3. The key to using Tried & True oil seems to be thinning it with turpentine. This pic is after I burnished it in preparation for what I believe will be the final coat. I think it's coming up toa  solid shine now. I've put on several thinned coats since my last post. Once this last one is cured I'll polish it up, maybe with some orange oil and wax, and get it assembled.

    PXL_20211204_224305733.thumb.jpg.d9dd79961bdecfa51b5e950217d35899.jpg

    • Like 3
  4. I feel like I should update this thread. Life obligations have limited the time and energy I have available to work on this guitar, but I haven't been completely idle. 

    I completed the application of the Tried & True oil finish per manufacturer's instructions. I didn't like the thickness of the finish, it made it a bit difficult to apply evenly. After following their instructions I decided to hit it with some synthetic wire wool and put another coat on that I had thinned 50% with turpentine. It went on much easier, and certainly looks better than it did prior to that coat.

    At this point I really feel like I just picked the wrong finish for this build. It looks a bit dull and lifeless to me. The whole thing is maybe a bit muddier than I had imagined. I think this finish would be more suited to a more highly contoured carve on the top. It would catch the light better and look more vibrant. I like the way it looks in the area of the hook scroll/cutaway, and if the whole top was similar I think I would be much happier with it. I also think it would pair better with a darker wood like walnut, it's just not adding much to the maple. 

    So at this point I'm leaning toward just futzing with it a bit more; a few more coats, some additional burnishing, etc. And then just finishing it up and moving on. The result should still be quite nice. But I've still got a lot going on, so it will be awhile before I make any additional progress.

    Here's a fairly crummy picture of where she stands right now:

    PXL_20210625_013901859.thumb.jpg.07a5cf91926a604ad670fe88e4a70bcb.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. 12 hours ago, Armaan said:

    This looks great! How did you do the inlay? I'm thinking of doing a headstock and 12th fret inlay on my guitar 

    I designed it so that I could use a 3/4" forstner bit to cut the inlay hole. I drew the design in Adobe Illustrator and then used my favorite laser cutting service, SendCutSend, who I use for all of my combat robot work, to cut the design out of 1/8" thick brass. Then inlayed it with epoxy with a little black furniture powder in it.

  6. A boiled linseed oil based finish looks great on walnut. Tru Oil is generally a good option as you can go with either a more 'in the wood' look or build coats into a shinier finish if you are so inclined, so there's a lot of flexibility. Danish oil also works well for the in the wood style of finish.

    As far as tung oil, that's a whole can of worms. Tung oil and tung oil finish, which are different things, can have a pretty wide variety of ingredients, sometimes not even including any actual tung oil. So unless you have a brand that you like and have worked with successfully I'd personally choose to stay away from it altogether.

    • Like 1
  7. As far as scarf joints slipping when gluing, if you have enough extra width to your neck blank you can drill some registration pins in to prevent movement when you clamp. Looks like you were pretty tight on this blank, but for future reference...

    I've also used pieces of binding tape stretched across the joint to help with movement too. Better than nothing.

    My personal preference is to put the scarf into the headstock and use an overlay and backstrap, which gives you plenty of room to put your registration pins outside of the headstock area. But there's a lot of good ways to skin this cat, it comes down to what makes sense in your head and what you think you can most effectively execute. Looks like you got it worked out!

    • Like 1
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