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mattharris75

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Everything posted by mattharris75

  1. I've achieved really good results with Tru Oil in the past on several different builds, but this product, Tried & True Oil, is a bit different. It's just boiled linseed oil and bees wax. I probably should have stuck with Tru Oil as I'm pretty comfortable with it, but I tried something new and it hasn't gone as well as I'd hoped...
  2. Just another of the many projects that take my time away from instrument building... My wife, who is a teacher, told me she needed a better work/craft area for school stuff, so I built in a nearly nine foot long desk in our spare bedroom:
  3. I feel like I should update this thread. Life obligations have limited the time and energy I have available to work on this guitar, but I haven't been completely idle. I completed the application of the Tried & True oil finish per manufacturer's instructions. I didn't like the thickness of the finish, it made it a bit difficult to apply evenly. After following their instructions I decided to hit it with some synthetic wire wool and put another coat on that I had thinned 50% with turpentine. It went on much easier, and certainly looks better than it did prior to that coat. At this point I really feel like I just picked the wrong finish for this build. It looks a bit dull and lifeless to me. The whole thing is maybe a bit muddier than I had imagined. I think this finish would be more suited to a more highly contoured carve on the top. It would catch the light better and look more vibrant. I like the way it looks in the area of the hook scroll/cutaway, and if the whole top was similar I think I would be much happier with it. I also think it would pair better with a darker wood like walnut, it's just not adding much to the maple. So at this point I'm leaning toward just futzing with it a bit more; a few more coats, some additional burnishing, etc. And then just finishing it up and moving on. The result should still be quite nice. But I've still got a lot going on, so it will be awhile before I make any additional progress. Here's a fairly crummy picture of where she stands right now:
  4. Same idea, but I compete in the insect weight classes, 1 and 3 pound robots. I've fought and am friends with some of the guys that do Battlebots. A few years ago I got to do the graphics for one of the robots on the show.
  5. I designed it so that I could use a 3/4" forstner bit to cut the inlay hole. I drew the design in Adobe Illustrator and then used my favorite laser cutting service, SendCutSend, who I use for all of my combat robot work, to cut the design out of 1/8" thick brass. Then inlayed it with epoxy with a little black furniture powder in it.
  6. Drilling the tuner holes before thicknessing the headstock...
  7. It's cool that y'all describe it that way, as that's very much what I was going for. I feel like that's the general vibe of my builds, my aesthetic, merging classic and modern.
  8. Which one was your guess? I almost used a different one, but when I got it drawn out in Illustrator I didn't like it as much as the hand drawing.
  9. Need to drop fill some epoxy in the voids and micromesh everything to a nice polish, but here's the inlay design I went with:
  10. Same here Scott, getting too old for the scary tools. I enjoy the use of my hands... I use routers for straight cuts and cavities, that's it. Watching videos on youtube where guys have their fingers inches away from the bit when using a router table gives me anxiety.
  11. A boiled linseed oil based finish looks great on walnut. Tru Oil is generally a good option as you can go with either a more 'in the wood' look or build coats into a shinier finish if you are so inclined, so there's a lot of flexibility. Danish oil also works well for the in the wood style of finish. As far as tung oil, that's a whole can of worms. Tung oil and tung oil finish, which are different things, can have a pretty wide variety of ingredients, sometimes not even including any actual tung oil. So unless you have a brand that you like and have worked with successfully I'd personally choose to stay away from it altogether.
  12. I haven't really gotten that introspective about it. However I do like order and symmetry.
  13. So many bad ways to draw an H... But that's part of the creative process, ehh? The finishing process is underway. It's doing that thing that maple does, where from some angles and under some lighting it looks brilliant. And others it looks like poop. I'll let y'all guess which angle/lighting combo this is:
  14. I had never heard of this trick until I watched one of @ADFinlayson build videos. I may have to give it a try!
  15. As far as scarf joints slipping when gluing, if you have enough extra width to your neck blank you can drill some registration pins in to prevent movement when you clamp. Looks like you were pretty tight on this blank, but for future reference... I've also used pieces of binding tape stretched across the joint to help with movement too. Better than nothing. My personal preference is to put the scarf into the headstock and use an overlay and backstrap, which gives you plenty of room to put your registration pins outside of the headstock area. But there's a lot of good ways to skin this cat, it comes down to what makes sense in your head and what you think you can most effectively execute. Looks like you got it worked out!
  16. I've been at the beach for the last week or so. Prior to that I'd been playing with headstock inlay design ideas. Even cut out a few failures. So I decided I'd spend some vacation time working out the design. Plenty of bad ideas on the page, but a few I liked. One of these ended up the winner, and in a week or two I should be able to show off the results...
  17. Super clean. And I love the medallion in the volute, very cool.
  18. You guys are better men than me. While I like the final results of sanding it feels a lot like grunt work. 50% of my time goes into getting the project 95% of the way complete, and the other 50% goes into sanding and finishing! When that first coat of finish goes on I'll be glad for all the sanding I've done. Until then, it's just a bit of a slog...
  19. I honestly think this would be the much easier (and cheaper) way to do things for those of use who are not in a production environment. A small foam roller and small disposable plastic paint pans. Just pour roughly the right amount of glue in there and throw away the pan when you're done.
  20. It's been a busy week, but I've managed to make a little progress. Unfortunately nothing that makes for interesting pictures though! I sanded the pickup rings to their proper thickness, drilled the holes for the bridge posts, drilled the wiring access from the pickup route to the control cavity, and drilled the hole for the bridge post grounding. Still a few piddly things to do like that, but I'm essentially down to the sanding now! I can't put it off for much longer!
  21. I'll definitely ease the edges a bit, but there's not enough meat to the rings to do much more than that.
  22. They need to be sanded down a bit, but pickup rings or no? Thoughts? I'm about 50/50. The original plan was to go without, but now I'm not so sure. The walnut kind of ties things together. I'll also likely either do walnut or wenge knobs.
  23. Pickup routes... Had to elevate the router over the neck to do the neck pickup route, so a little half inch plywood and plenty of double sided tape and away we go. Couldn't help myself and threw in the pickups for a quick look. They're not at all in position, but you get the drift. It's all coming together! I've been researching whether to drill the holes for the bridge posts even or staggered. Due to the adjustability of this bridge I'm leaning toward even at the moment.
  24. That's amazing. Never seen anything quite like it!
  25. I'm sure there were other options that would have done the trick, but I decided to go with what was the simplest for me. And I actually needed a new pattern bit anyway, so it all worked out.
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