JPL

No matter how hard you try to justify it taking something without paying for it is stealing.

Please don't suggest illegal activity on Brian's board.

Why didn't I think of that?!? BTW; very nice carve on that. It has a nice flow.

You could go all out and route it out to the bridge (since it doesn't look like you have a bridge pickup planned) and fill it with a nice laminated section of decorative wood. Just call it a happy accident. A laminate of the top and back woods running down the center might look good.

I had a NASA type font that got lost in one of the great crashes but it was never quite right. I was able to make it work but I would have been much happier with a good JPL font. I haven't checked the new one out yet but confidence is high Houston.

Thanks so much for that link chunkie, you're a real asset to this board. I had been looking for a NASA or JPL (Jet Propultion Labratories) font for the guitar I've been (endlessly) building for a friend in the aerospace industry. You just saved me a lot of work.

I did that on my first guitar, an almost hollow/extreme chambered body along the lines of a Holdsworth Fatboy. I wish I would have thought of soldering the springs to the ears but instead I put the screws in the holes and then crimped the springs onto the screws. I then put tape around the pup to give me a handle to help pull it up into place while I screwed it in. It was a major pain but I love the naked look. I did get pretty good at it after doing it about a dozen times. Sorry, no pictures. I lost all that I had on my hard drive and it is on loan to a cameraless friend. I'm making him bring it back when he comes up for Thanksgiving, I miss it. I have no idea how it might effect the sound, I don't play in high gain or high volume situations so feedback isn't a problem. I can't imagine that a pickup ring would change anything but it's looks. Edit: Wait, I found a poor picture of Woody. God I miss her.

Sorry to stray off topic but I have a '66 Mustang in need of a fret job. Would those be slid in from the side? I'll probably leave that one up to someone who knows what they're doing anyway, I'd hate to butcher that beautifully worn neck.

Cool, all is well. Welcome to the forum.

One reason you might want to PM or email him is because this is a question about his business and this is not his business' forum. Perry keeps his business affairs separate from Brian's forum for the most part. Out of respect for our host it would be nice for you to keep your beefs, real or imagined, out of Brian's house. All are welcome here to respectfully discuss guitar building but if you came in to start a fight then don't be surprised if you get a harsh greeting.

Link

I don't like the headstock but that's only my opinion and that don't mean squat. What does bother me about the design is that point on the lower bout. It sure looks like it could impale it's self into the back of your hand as you reach for the high notes. Maybe you could swing that out a bit.

I won't buy CA in a hardware store but any hobby store will have more kinds of superglue than you could shake a stick at.

I assume you've already adjusted the truss rod and that didn't take care of it?

That depends, how big a dog is it? You might just end up using your own finger bone for the nut. Sorry...

I might tend to agree that rokeros' reply was a little bit on the rude side but your's was straight on hostile. Do you expect to get help when you start assulting those who help you? On to the question... There is far more that I don't know than I know but I don't remember seeing binding on Strats. Isn't it imposible to bind a rounded edge or am I missing something?

I haven't used that brand but as far as I know all tung oils are wiped on with a rag. It's really just about as easy as it could be and makes for a great feel on the neck. Just wipe it on thin and let it dry, repeat until you're happy with the finish.

Long bits? Aren't they available everywhere? Even Ace Hardware carries them in a pretty good assortment of sizes.

It's not an attachment, it's just a proper scroll saw made by dremel. A quick search came up with this.

We'll see if you still say that the first time a blade breaks and several pieces of sharp, greasy metal imbed them selves into your flesh. If you insist slow it way down and let the blade do the cutting, don't push at all. 30-60 strokes per minute is not too slow, often that's way too fast. Give it a try if you like and then go buy a saw frame.

A good German or Swiss saw frame is about $10. Spend the extra bucks on good blades. Years ago I got a "good deal" on a gross of cheap blades, I still have most of them around here somewhere. It didn't take long before I realised that the expensive blades were cheaper.

A jig for a scroll saw? I guess it could be done but I've never thought of a scroll saw as anything other than a freehand tool. With a good foot feed variable speed control it can be every bit as accurate as hand sawing. I used to do a lot of coin piercing (I still can't look at a quarter without seeing a pipe in george's mouth) and while I found hand sawing more relaxing sometimes production and arm fatigue demanded that I switch to the power saw. Nothing will ever replace a good jewler's saw frame and every novice should start with one but don't rule out other tools.

I own both and have used both, mostly with metals and soft stone, and both tools can do an exceptional job. Each has their streangths. The main advantages of sawing by hand is the more sensitive feedback from the blade and the infinate variable speed. To me the scroll saw took much more practice and patience. If I had to choose one I would saw by hand till the cows come home but I'm not tossing my scroll saw, it's been a good friend.

Doesn't the Dremel saw accept pinless jeweler's saw blades? I know it would take a damned light touch and a slow speed to avoid breaking the finest blades but I would think it could be done. Maybe not the best way but possible.

How about a pignose?