Jump to content
Entry in the May 2024 Guitar of the Month contest is now open ×

jaycee

Established Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    650

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by jaycee

  1. jaycee
    Just butt joint and save the biscuits for a cup of tea whilst the glue is drying
  2. jaycee
    That is simply amazing. Something I can see the Terminator playing
  3. jaycee
    Heres the designs I have in mind for my next project. (which at the moment is overtaking my 12 string) It will be clear coated, but the different colours are the woods I will use, possibley ash and sapele on the front, with Obeche/Sapele/Obeche or vise versa being the bulk of the body The body shape is basically a Morph of a Les Paul with a trimmed lower bout and fatter horn, with the left upper bout having a Telecaster as it's inspiration The back of the guitar will be a 3 piece Any comments gratefully accepted and duly ignored
  4. jaycee
    Sounds as if you have bought what used to be known as a Japanese pull saw. The Japanese ones were very high quality, extremley sharp, I used to have a catalogue on Jap tools and they were bespoke items. Mine lasted ages, it was so easy to use and the end grain was left as if it had been planed.
  5. jaycee
    Thanks for the replies guys, I had lost this thread, and when I saw the subject in the list I thought "thats interesting " and it was me who started it. How about the plate what woods would you use for this
  6. jaycee
    I am assuming that you are building a guitar. The best approach would be to reaearch the topic yourself, you can start with Killmall8' link, then Google "fretboard materials" if then you don't have the answers you are looking for, then by all means ask away. Having this kind of information given to you without to much effort on your part doesn't teach you anything about luthiery. Finding the information for yourself will be much more rewarding, beneficial and help you learn much better.
  7. jaycee
    Where do you start ! Do the pickup's work? It's all experience
  8. jaycee
    We are in Wales also If some one posts in imperial I try to comment in imperial as well. I find it makes thingd easier to understand.
  9. jaycee
    That top is beautifull. There is so much movement in it with the grain. Don't take this the wrong way, as I am a serial F-hole hater, but the top almost makes the guitar look nice. But I can appreciate good workmanship when I see it, and that is looking very nice ( well at least from the waist up )
  10. jaycee
    Hi Kabashiro, welcome to the forum. Firstly I would say explore the Home page Then have a look at This Whilst you are digesting all that information you should have ordered This When you can understand what you need to do, draw your plans full scale and get your wood. Happy building
  11. jaycee
    Are you guys metric in Oz then ae3?
  12. jaycee
    I'm not to sure what silverline paper is like, but I do use some of there router bits and they are at the budget end of the market. Clean the radius block, get some decent paper, stick it on with double sided sticky tape and go from there. This is the business end of guitar making, use the best finishing materials you can afford for a good looking job.
  13. jaycee
    Yes |I just checked them out, I do like the wide flat head on them. I have seen them somewhere else but cannot remember where.
  14. jaycee
    Thats 4" longer than the Jackson. ..............................Just stating the obvious for no apparent reason
  15. jaycee
    You say that mat but I have seen M6 bolts in Halfords which have chromed Allen key ends, much better looking than your bog standard bolt. And the worrying thing is even though they won't be seen I am actually contemplating getting them.
  16. jaycee
    Mat told me the same thing a while back albeit metric sizes, and the 1/4 or 6mm in my case looks plenty I did get the 8mm sent out at the same time and not only do the inserts look to big but the bolts are as well. Fortunately it was a freebie so I thought I may as well take advantage of it
  17. jaycee
    x l ent . I'd loved to have done something like this when I was at school. It's only 20 years on that you realise the subjects you should have taken you didn't
  18. jaycee
    I have a a jackson shaped explorer drawing from guitar build and it is at least 20" x 15" You will prob have to get a two piece so it could be cut from a smaller piece. Unless you are building an exact copy as long as the dimensions are close it won't really matter
  19. jaycee
    Just to keep yourself ahead of the game there is a book by Melvyn Hiscock which many of use have and is regarded as the bible for guitar making. I've put a link to Amazon so you know what it looks like. If you put the Isbn number into google you will find a list of retailers that have it, also the price varies quite a lot, I got mine for £10.50 ($20) but some shops were charging double that, even at that price though it's worth it.
  20. jaycee
    Cheers guys. I know what you mean about confirmation Wez, I calculated the neck angle that I would need and later found a source that confirmed my result. Wes, the bottom stud is on the treble side and the top stud on the bass, so I guess your describing them as if your holding the guitar, yes ?
  21. jaycee
    Thanks guys, that has clarified it. The way I saw it was that, if the scale length for example is 650mm, then none of the saddles would need to go nearer to the nut ( in a perfect world ) otherwise that would make the scale length shorter. So if I were to set the saddle point at the scale length i.e. 650mm + 1.5mm with some allowance for forward adjustment then all the other saddles when adjusted for the intonation would logically be behind that point. So angling the bridge would allow for greater movement with the saddles that would otherwise have been taken up if it was not angled. One of the things that concerned me was when I fixed the bridge would there be enought travel in the saddles to get the intonation correct. But I guess there will be because thats the way they are made.
  22. jaycee
    I'm just starting to design my next project. Up until now I have bought plans but on this one I shall be drqwing the plans myself. just checking a few things. Scale lentgh = Nut to 12th fret, then double it. String length = nut to bridge saddle, which will be longer than the scale length due to the compensation facor and the need for intonation. I will be using a Tom bridge and tail stop. Should I measure the Scale length at the 1st ( high E ) string and then angle the bridge away from the nut at that point ( say 3mm ) which would result in the lower E being 3mm longer than the scale length. When setting the intonation would any of the saddles move closer to the bridge. I have done a lot of research but would welcome any input
  23. jaycee
    Very nice. What did you use to finish did you use?
  24. jaycee
    Welcome the the board Adam. There is also a guitar forum in the UK not as extensive as here but very handy for sourcing materials etc, most of the guys there also frequent here
  25. jaycee
    two ways I can think of 1.get a slotted 12 string nut. 2. from the bass side of the neck All in mm........4,7......11.5,14.8.......19.4,22.........27,29.8.........34.5,37.5.... .....42.5,45 I just got these off my plans, it looks as if the second string of each pair is roughly 3mm from the first. I put in fractions of mm to show that they all aren't exactly 3mm from the main strings. If it's any help the centres between the holes on the bridge is 11mm that's on both rows and then the centres between the string pairs is 4mm Draw it full scale and see what it looks like
×
×
  • Create New...