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msherman

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Everything posted by msherman

  1. msherman
    Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like the air was in the the second to last coat. First, try to sand them out with 320. If you can`t get them out, take naptha on a soft rag and wipe the sanding dust completely out of the holes. Then use Stew-mac clear grain filler to fill the holes, then shoot your next round of clearcoats. Good luck
  2. msherman
    To remove the laquer drips, take a 2"x2" piece of 320 grit and roll it into a tube. Hold the sandpaper roll in the center of the tube and use the end to sand the drip lightly until you remove it. Then you can go ahead and level the rest. As for the air bubbles, two things will cause this. Either you shot the coats too heavy, or you didn`t leave enough time between coats to flash off. Keep in mind that the higher the humidity, thinner coats and more flash time between coats are required. Being that you have laquer drips suggests that you shot the coats too heavy.
  3. msherman
    Good to know! Maybe I'll give it another try one of these days! Hey Doug, Where in Forest Park do you live? I used to live there on Harlem and Roosevelt.......900 block of Elgin Ave. to be exact Been in Ct. for 10 years now. Is Parky`s Hotdogs still there? I loved that place! I built quite a few guitars for Kagan and Gaines Music (But I don`t think they are still there now). Small world!
  4. msherman
    Well Im thinking about forgeting Active and trying a Seymour Duncan SSB-5b "Phase II Passive Soapbar" 5-string bass pickup The full-length dual blades accommodate maximum string spacings up to 3.10” (78.5mm) !!METAL MATT!! Cool, let me know how that pup sounds when completed.
  5. msherman
    Thats the natural color of the cocobolo in the pic. The burnt umber will get you close. I have about 30 hours into all the inlay work on this one. Front shot
  6. msherman
    Cool It`s great to see someone else building that shape. Might I suggest shooting it with trans burnt umber. It will give it that cocobolo look and the figure will really jump out. Here is one I`m building at the moment.
  7. msherman
    You betcha! I made two 6 string basses out of flamed teak one fretted, and one fretless, and they were amazing sounding
  8. msherman
    Well Im waiting on a few parts but things are moveing along very well, Im trying to find a set of active pickups that are not EMGs to try on my build Any way man thats a wicked guitar and I love its slick clean look and the neck is PURE SEX WICKED STUFF !!METAL MATT!! Thanks Matt. Yeah, your kind of limited on options for an active 8 string pup, but I have been talking with a few pup makers about this sort of thing. I have a pair of 808`s on the way and I`m anxious to here what they sound like. Eric gave them high reviews when he tried them @ Messe.
  9. msherman
    No, once the decal is applied, you just need to spray a very thin coat to tack it down, then apply normal clearcoats.
  10. msherman
    Here are a few other shots.
  11. msherman
    You will need to use Gorilla glue and rough up the mating surface on the brass with 60 or 80 grit before gluing.
  12. msherman
    The 10 string is for Eric Lovett and it was his brain child that he designed. The top and back are Rosewood Stumpwood. The 8 string has 32 frets. Matt, I`ll get some better pics up later today. My camera has a hard time with photographing the reds on this guitar. It`s really a cherry sunburst, but my camera makes it look like an orange burst. How`s your 8 coming along?
  13. msherman
    I also have a 10 string guitar in progress with 30.325" scale and 39 frets.
  14. msherman
    Here is a completed shot of my new 8 srting model with 27.5" scale.
  15. msherman
    I was born and raised in Chicago. I`ve been out in Ct. now for 11 years. Man....I sure miss Chicago. The Pizza sucks out here!! Welcome to the boards. Mike
  16. msherman
    Hi Mike. Welcome. I'm not familiar with your site or your reference to the TB and SS boards. Would you provide some links, please? Regards, Rob Hi Rob, I wasn`t sure if it was alright to post a link to my site as I didn`t want to violate any user agreements. I`m still feeling my way around here. My site is www.sherman-guitars.com A brief rundown on my backround: I have been building for 29 years now. I started out in Hohner Guitars R&D dept for 2 years. From there I worked for Dean Guitars for 3 years. From ther I worked for Hamer Guitars for 12 years and ran the finishing area and worked in the Custom Shop. From there, I ran the Washburn Custom Shop for 4 years. From there, I ran the assembly dept. for Ovation Guitars for 3 years. I`ve had my own shop for 5 years now. Mike
  17. msherman
    I`m new here to the boards and noticed this was an old thread. I introduced this method to Washburn years ago when they introduced the MG series droptops. Rout a series of parallel kerfs to the underside of the top at the angle where the arm scarf will be bent. Steam the top for 1.5 minutes and use a radiused caul for clamping or before you throw it in the vacuum bag. Mike
  18. msherman
    Thanks for the warm welcome guys. You wouldn`t want my coffee though, I don`t drink the stuff.....the wife never lets me make her coffee.LOL
  19. msherman
    I was asked to come on over here and join the forum, so here I am. My name is Mike Sherman from Michael Sherman Guitars. Some of you know my work from the TB and SS boards. Thanks for having me here. Mike
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