darren wilson
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Everything posted by darren wilson
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I suspect that if the caribburst project had been maybe three months instead of a full year, people might have got them done. The whole idea just sort of lost momentum.
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Check out Seagull guitars, too. Great bang-for-the-buck.
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Look At This... What A Deal!
darren wilson replied to bigdguitars's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
Yeah, resawing it into three bookmatched tops seems like a shame when you've got a piece big enough to do a one-piece top (or two). -
Look At This... What A Deal!
darren wilson replied to bigdguitars's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
Nice slab! You could probably make a really nice Tele out of it. -
Look At This... What A Deal!
darren wilson replied to bigdguitars's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
Yeah, but can you actually make anything guitar-oriented out of it? It doesn't even look big enough to make a bookmatched top out of. -
This one? All things considered, it's not a bad photo. I've seen a lot worse. But with a little bit of enhancement to the brightness and contrast in Photoshop, you get a better result: Even the pros use Photoshop to correct for colour balance and exposure. The blacks in your image didn't extend all the way down to "zero", and the highlights weren't pure white, either. That's why the image looks a little washed out.
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Your Favorite Guitar With Pic And Why....
darren wilson replied to bigdguitars's topic in Players Corner
My current favourite is my first and only seven-string. Killer sound, great playability and i like the way it looks, too. -
And which one of those basses would be yours? My first bit of advice would be to turn off the camera's flash. If you're getting what looks like a "fogged" finish, you're probably getting too much glare off the body from the camera's flash. Try turning off the flash and/or shooting the body from a slight angle so the flash isn't being reflected directly back into the camera's lens. Turning off the flash will also generally give you better colour saturation, though with slower digital cameras, you might have to use a tripod and the camera's self-timer to prevent jitter.
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Can you be more specific with the kinds of problems you're having getting good photos? (Maybe some examples would help.)
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I personally think the spokeshave is the best tool for the job. Just go slow and take your time. If you're nervous or haven't used the spoke shave much before, practice on a piece of scrap.
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you mean speedloader ,right?they already have a 7 string floyd original.i have one on my 7 string v.bought the trem from derek Yes, i mean 7-string Speedloader bridges. I don't think it's going to happen.
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I assume you're talking about chestnut? I've never heard of it being used in musical instrument manufacture, and chances are, there's a good reason for it. (Just as there's a reason you don't see too many oak or pine guitars.)
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erik: By reducing the volume, you're also reducing the mass, which is a different argument from the shape one. If you start with two identical blocks of material with the same resonant frequencies, then you carve one down to a "V" shape and the other down to a Tele shape, with the same mass leftover, i highly doubt one is going to sound perceptibly different from the other.
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I was thinking of doing something similar, too. Maybe epoxy would do the trick? Silicone would probably hold, but the softness of it might dampen any resonance.
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Floyd Rose (the company) has said they're going to be producing 7-string bridges, i wouldn't count on it. (either hardtail or trem)
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Wow... that looks so awesome. I love how thin they are!
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LOL Believe it or not, some of us here do actually have some guitars that are in a fully-assembled state.
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My cat's breath smells like cat food.
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Unless the "research" involved making identical guitars using the same materials, construction methods, scale length and electronics, i can't see how anyone could point to a feature such as the width of the guitar's 'waist' as any kind of scientific conclusion. Doing proper scientific research is all about controlling variables. Even in analyzing only the body shape, you'd pretty much have to make the guitars out of carefully controlled synthetic materials, as we all know that the tonal quality of woods can vary from board to board, even if they came from the same tree. The main factors separating the acoustic tones of Les Pauls from Strats and Teles are not only woods and the neck attachment methods, but also the scale length.
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Well, i made a headstock suggestion, and i'd like to make another... USE MORE COMMAS AND PERIODS!
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Maybe a headstock something like this? You could even put a bevel on the edge at the end to mimic the bevels on the body. (and yes, i know it's derivative of James Hetfield's Ken Lawrence explorer)
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The design isn't really my taste, but it looks cool. I agree with the other comments about the inlay. I'd say kill it and do something a little simpler. I like Kevan's suggestion. I also think the headstock could be a bit more narrow and longer... the strings splay out quite a bit from the nut, which could cause some binding in the slots or the strings could jump out if you hit them hard enough. I prefer straighter string pull. The headstock also looks a bit too 'square' for the elongated feel of the body. It also has hints of the Silvertone Apocalypse Pro model.
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I prefer tall, narrow wire. It's easier to get a nice narrow crown on it for better intonation, and i find they don't feel as huge and 'in the way' as a huge 6100 jumbo fret does.
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I think the mindset behind making guitar hardware out of brass was even more simplistic.