Ellipsis

Ampeg SVT 8x10 with a gallien Krueger 2001RB head. It's pretty sweet, although I'm looking to add another couple of seperate 4x10's

Body laminates = brilliant. Cocobolo top = effin beautifull!

I had it pegged as Koa upon first seeing it. Although my opinion is by no means professional or accurate. But it is very Koa-esque.

Now, another question: Scarf joint under fretboard around the 2nd/3rd fret OR scarf joint attatched at bottom side of neck then headstock covered with veneer?

So uh...anyone with experience using the Hot Rod truss rods.... question for you guys: would it be wise to drop the extra cash on the 'specially designed' router bit OR should I just go get a run of the mill 7/32 bit?

Thanks Jester for the idea. Yea, I agree, I will be fine tuning the design- the bottom horn is deffinately a concern for me as I know how fragile wood can be. The last thing I want is for it to snap off if accidentally bumped against something. And yea, I've been putting serious thought into shortening the tail piece considerably. Now to find myself some cabinet makers... or work a deal with someone at a trades college...

I'm stranded in university, 3 hours from home, but potentially I could begin working at home in the shop over easter weekend. Only one little snag has stopped me from this, that being the lack of a thickness planer. So I guess the question is...where do I find me a thickness planer to borrow. I would normally go to home depot and buy one, but I'm a bit short on cash for a good planer.

It is roughly based off of the infamous CT Rainbow bass for Claypool, however the wood choices vary slightly in the fact that I dont want to laminate 30 pieces of wood to make the body. Technically it could be roughly based on several combinations of CT basses, but my own little touches are there as well.

Well I went and got my wood today! 175 canadian dollars, and damn proud of it! Originally I planned this bass to be Walnut and Padauk body with a bubinga/padauk neck and ebony fretboard. But the woodstore didnt have ebony in the right size- so it now has a beautifull cocobolo fretboard! Anyways, I have pictures! I have a picture I drew up and scanned into MS Paint for colour ideas. The bass is roughly based on one of the many masterpieces made by Carl Thompson. Here's some pictures for your viewing pleasure. The Padauk and Bubinga arent planed what so ever, so the grain isnt visible. Can't wait to run it through a planer! Precious cocobolo Nice walnut, too bad I have to cut it into strips and laminate it with the padauk. And finally, design: may change pickup placement and shorten the tail piece....maybe...

how about bubinga with a 3/4'' strip of padauk running down the center. I hear both woods are pretty good for necks, and I really am getting sick of maple hahaha. Thanks for the input so far guys!

I have heard talk of people using two truss rods in their bass necks as opposed to 1 and carbon fiber reinforcements. I am wondering, if a guy was to use 2 truss rods, how would he go about doing it. Theoretically the man has a 6 string bass neck, 2'' at nut, 3 1/4'' at 24th fret. When using 2 truss rods, he would router the channels to each side of the center of the neck, correct? how much distance would he put between the rods?

Thanks for the reply. I did some more research, the question of the bridge was right under my nose the whole time! When Claypool had the rainbow bass sent back to Carl for some changes they took a photo of the pickup cavity after some modifications, the bridge seems to be held in place by the pressure of the strings only! That, or a very small ammount of glue, which they heat treated to remove the bridge while working on it. Either way, this makes my life a lot easier.

Hey guys, I'm new around here. This may seem like a rather simple question, but I've been playing with the idea in my head, and just want to make sure there aren't any better or easier ways of doing this. So I plan on building my first 6 string fretless bass this summer. Anways I want to have wooden frets inlayed into the neck. So what I was thinking: Slot my ebony fretboard, glue the little bastards into the slots, then trim and radius with the rest of the fretboard at a later time. Good procedure? I also want to make the bass a string-through body, much like that of a Carl Thompson bass. Anyone know if the bridge wood is anchored or is it a floating bridge?