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Ljbarbeau

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Ljbarbeau last won the day on December 2 2012

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About Ljbarbeau

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  1. I asked a friend of mine to make one for me in aluminum with a cnc. 24 in long 4 in wide. But she never has the time. Maybe for Christmas...
  2. Actually that wasn't yvon's first choice at all. I wanted something figured or would at least look different for the top. I Also like brown woods. He offered the usual: Sitka spruce, cedar,etc... But I Tought they all looked blend. From all the wood I suggested the only one he agreed would make a good top was koa. But he said it was too expensive (wood is included in the price of the course). He had that piece lying around and he Tought it might be ok. It is strangely soft for walnut, so it might turn ok. Its a risk I took. Lets hope for the best
  3. Using a follow up bit and a router, the back is cut to size. 27 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Better view: 28 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Sanding the front flat. 29 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Done: 30 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Applying 1 layer of sealer inside (top included) making sure to keep places Where there will be glue dry for now. 31 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Well this is where I'm at for now. It might seem to progress fast because I posted everything together, but in truth this as been going on for quite a while. almost a year... ofc he is closed during summer so that didn't help.. will try to keep it up to date from now on.
  4. Glue up for 3 bent braces made from red honduras mahogany. again using fish glue for stiffness… If someone wants it I can find the exact angle in my notes.. 22 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr glueing the finale braces. The 5 one under the bridge are made of purple heart. Everything else is made of red honduras mahogany. Once again, everything rounded for same reason. 23 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr The final brace is different. Its the main one in the middle of the guitar. It's called a mustache brace. All the other braces were straight but this one has a rounded bottom with aboutt ⅛ of relief at each end to make it a stronger bound. 24 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glue up. You can see why there are holes in the brace. 25 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Top is finished. As you can see it seems a lot stronger then the standard x bracing. The bridge is fully supported, can't wait to try it out... 26 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr
  5. Cut the rosette. glueing up 1 lining of padauk then ebony on each side using a very modern, expensive and custom made jig/tool. 16 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Results with a free shot of the ebony bridge. The bridge won't use pins but have string thru holes instead. 17 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glueing ebony for the rosette: 18 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr 19 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glueing the bridge. 2 pins are placed where there will eventually be bolts. 20 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glueing spanish cedar behind the rosette to reinforce it. 21 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr
  6. Room is made to accommodate the back braces. (That's my teacher in the back) 12 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glueing the back. I think the clamp police will let me slide... 13 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr After glue up. Also a better view of the rounding on the neck block. white braces in the back and sides are made of basswood. The 3 big ones on the back are made of Mahogany. Also rounded. 14 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr My sig (LJB stands for Louis-Jacques Barbeau, my full name) with serial number: 2012 001 Also serve as holding all the wood together. 15 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr
  7. Yvon hates Kerfed linings. He keeps saying how they are for cheap mass produced guitar and should not be used because they aren't strong enough and all the gaps in it absorbs the sound/vibrations. I personally don't have an opinion on it since its my first guitar, but his way wasn't that hard. So, if I had to do it again I'd probably do it the same, since it "might" help strength and sound. So I Glued 3 blocks of Mahogany wood where the side meets. To replace the lining I'm using 2 strips of basswood bent the same way I did the sides. But they are much easier to bend since they are so small. Everything is then glued using fish glue. That is actually important. According to him (and according to what I've seen it seems to hold true) white glues and yellow glues types, when dried keep a little bit of its elasticity. Fish glue drys really stiff. That makes the sides very strong. 6 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glued up the top. Flame walnut from Germany I think.. (or at least bought there) 7 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Rough cut of the back. 8 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Prepping to sand to a radius the back of the guitar. I didn't take pictures of gluing the braces on the back, but they are sanded to make the back a little round. About ⅛ of relief on each side. The mould is raised and wooden stick made to fit are placed in the centre so it doesn't collapse on itself while sanding. Also you can see that every braces inside has been sanded round to help weight and distribution of the sound. 9 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr No radius dish here. Just an aluminium bar to raise the centre and a straight sanding beam. 10 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Done: 11 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr
  8. Well I’ve been postponing this for quite a while. I first showed up on the forum about a year ago wanting to build guitars. In the end I found a luthier willing to show me his trade. I wanted to build electric guitars but he only agreed to tech me if I accepted to do an acoustic first then move to electric guitars. The build is going slowly as the course included theory for the first 6 courses and the course is only 3hrs a week. But I finally got to a point where there’s actually something to show... Just in case someone is interested my my teacher's work; his name is Yvon Robert and here is his website: http://www.yvonrobertluthier.com I also think this build might be interesting to people because he’s using different methods then I’ve seen on this forum. I would call them old school technics. Everything from scratch mostly by hand. He also steers away from the traditional X bracing for a swedish pattern that is supposed to be more solid, stable and yet more vibrant. Quick resume about me before we get to the fun part. My name is Luigi, I’ve been playing for about 20 years now (I’m 32). I’m military, I fix avionics components on F-18 here in Québec, Canada. So I know my way around a guitar and a tool shop. My first language is french, so you can expect lots of errors in my writing. (sorry in advance) So finally, the good stuff: R&B = Red And Black. That is my theme for this build. so lots of ebony as highlights.. SPECS: Back & sides: Padauk with Indian rosewood and flame maple highlights Front: Black flame walnut Bending: Ebony Neck: Morado & Purpleheart Fretboard & Bridge: Ebony Scale: 25.5” Gluing the mould: Drawing the Plans. It's a little bit inspired by Les Paul shape.: 1 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Glueing the back Padauk / East Indian Rosewood / Flame Maple: 2 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr Bending the sides with an iron pipe and a torch. He also has an electric one, but we were 2 in training and I got the short end of the stick. 3 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr My first attempt wasn't really good. 4 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr But I finally managed to do it. On my first attempt I was only wetting the sides with a damp towel. But on my second try, I actually plunged both sides in water and let them absorb water for a while. It was a lot easier to bend the sides no burn marks or splits. 5 by Bleeding OZ, on Flickr
  9. cancel the order from rockler? Do you have a link for those blades... Im interested. Dunno if I can get them in Canada tho.. -edit : Found 'em..
  10. So I just came back from Hawaii. While I was there though Id go look for some nice flame Koa but to no avail... But I did score some australian curly Red gum wood. I paid 70$ for a plank 12in x 80in x 1.5in. But somehow I doubt its red gum wood.. Does any1 know for sure what this lumber is? and either way would it make a suitable top for an electric guitar? (I red some bad things about the red gum but I couldn't find any1 who used it on guitar making..) here's a picture:
  11. Which Wood Would you recommend using the white one for?
  12. Just wondering, I have 1 gallon of titebond's white glue. I already glued my mahogany body blank with it. But now I'm starting to second guess myself. I know everybody here loves titebond's wood glue (yellow). Is the white stuff good enough? Should I change from now on and use only the yellow stuff? Even worst, should I redo my body blank with titebond 1?
  13. if those are really dunlops, you should buy them at stewmac they are half the price or are those different? StewMac
  14. Did you make the birds inlay or did you buy them? If you bought them where did you? If you made them did you find a template somewhere? Everything looks great btw
  15. An ax I made a few years ago. Do a search for it in the WIP section. found the thread, but none of the pictures still works... so its still a mystery...
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