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Stu.

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Everything posted by Stu.

  1. Congratulations on the GOTM win! I've just logged back in and seen the results.
  2. Whilst I'm waiting for the purple oddity to cure, I figured I might as well get started on this one. I bought the wood for my birthday, back in July, so it's about time I did something. It'll make good use of a lot of hardware I've had hanging around too. The drawings look a little like this: Plan by S K, on Flickr The shape is slightly too wide for my body slabs, which forced me to bulk out the centre with black limba, walnut and maple veneer. The neck is composed of black limba, wenge and maple veneer - the maple veneer wasn't long enough to make a complete neck blanks, so I've made a separate section for the scarf/headstock. The neck laminates are glued and clamped at the moment, and I did lots of prep this weekend. Hopefully next weekend will see more glue action Oh, and I treated myself to a tiny bandsaw on Christmas Eve (I think it's the cheapest one in the UK at the moment). It's a Titan thing from ScrewFix, which has been amazing so far. I gave it a decent set-up and it's exceeding my modest expectations. Wood stock: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Centre block: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Body wood: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Neck wood: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Bookmatched headstock faceplate: Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  3. The transformation from the raw wood is spectacular!
  4. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I did try them on one side, but they didn't go in particularly straight and still wriggled with the glue on. I could try the opposite sides though! When I was clamping up, I also noticed that there's a drop-off at the high frets from sanding the radius in by hand; it made getting even clamping pressure very difficult, even before the sliding around. The glue also needs to be removed from the fingerboard base (I prioritised cleaning the neck up at the time). It gives me a rotten feeling about the board, you know?
  5. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    It's been a while, but I have been working on things slowly! I've also had personal things to deal with. The truss rod channel is routed, side dots are done, and the taper is cut in. Since cutting the taper, I've found out that one of my faces wasn't perfectly square; the laminates are centered on the fingerboard face (which will be hidden ), and are slightly off-centre undernearth. Hopefully carving will draw the eye away from that. I also tried getting the fingerboard on, which was an absolute nightmare. I've always glued it on flat in the past, then routed the taper, routed and glued binding, and finally done the radius sanding. I'm preparing to make a whole new fingerboard. Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Side dots in, ready to be sanded flush when the fingerboard goes on: Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  6. Watching your last cutter flex momentarily and then snap is a wonderful
  7. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I wish I could take credit, but I basically stole the idea from the ESP Alexi Blacky model! It's such a good combination though. Unless I change my mind overnight, I'm not heading back to do any guitar work this weekend. I did manage to solve my CNC issue though! I've used a small gantry with four wheels, which is attached to the cradle via a 90° bracket and runs along the top section of 2020. It's just enough to stabilise everything whilst it moves. Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  8. I can't wait to see how this turns out! Your stuff never disappoints.
  9. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I saw his CNC build thread... that thing is insane! I have the rails installed - there's a bit of deflection in the Z axis, towards the weight of the motor. I'm thinking about attaching a bearing beneath the cradle, with a length of 2020 and PTFE strip to run against. It might be enough for the thing to reference against and stay level. I took things very easy this weekend. Just a bit of slot sawing, fingerboard binding, and truss rod routing jig prep: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  10. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    This is kind of unrelated... I fancied extending the working area of my little CNC machine. I used 2020 and 2080 aluminium extrusion to extend the X axis and bed, with a longer lead screw to match. The 8mm stainless steel rod should arrive this weekend to support the cradle. Hopefully it won't flex, but I'll find out soon! Untitled by S K, on Flickr If everything goes to plan, it'll have a working area of 500x100mm (just enough for a 25.5" fingerboard with 24 frets).
  11. The headstock is looking very tidy indeed! All of the effort and prep definitely paid off!
  12. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    These are pretty sweet!
  13. Stu.

    Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    That's a beautiful shade of green! Did you do much build-up, or is that one concentration straight onto the maple?
  14. My bad! Feel free to ignore my previous post. I'll give a sharp 10mm forstner a try next time.
  15. Stu.

    resin/wood composite body

    Are you thinking of Stone Wolf Guitars in the UK?
  16. The finish is unbelievable! I always thought that level of gloss only achievable with 2k or similar. Bravo for the finish on top and craftmanship beneath!
  17. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I think it gets pointier with each update!
  18. I don't know if this is helpful, but I've seen people using these Bosch tile bites for tuner and bridge holes: I've bought one myself in the hope that it'll drill clean, accurate holes... particularly through cured finish, which has a tendency to crack. It seems worth experimenting with.
  19. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Hopefully you're feeling better! What's the timescale like for shrinkage? Fingers crossed it's the kind of issue that presents after decades of my terrible playing! A little quick-set epoxy and ebony dust did the job very nicely for the remaining inlays. I finished those off, radiused the fingerboard, and then carved the bevels into the body. The bevel angle is actually closer to 20°, so using a chamfer bit wasn't an option; I went with my Shinto and Dragon rasps, which worked wonderfully! There's still lots of tidying up to be done, and I have to be super careful not to ding it now. Edit: I chose to carve matching bevels on the front and rear (more akin to an ESP SV/Alexi), to shed some weight and make it look sleeker. There's enough space between for the Strat style jack plate. Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr The weekend wasn't without problems, as you'd expect! There were air bubbles in the red epoxy, which I'll need to fill when I get chance. I also trimmed the fingerboard down a little too far; I was going to glue the fingerboard on with maple veneer between it and the neck, but I've decided instead to glue the veneer on and then hide it under the binding. Hopefully it makes the fingerboard look taller without compromising anything.
  20. Stu.

    KEA 2017 builds

    Those EMGs are very sweet!
  21. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Between work and travelling, I've made the tiniest amount of progress this week! Only a little sanding and cutting the pockets for the last inlays: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr There are still some glue and paint pen marks to sand out, but they'll disappear later. I'll be using ebony dust and epoxy resin to secure and fill those inlays. Hopefully the celluloid will be stable with that.
  22. Even your test scraps are prettier than most guitars! Do you have a project in mind for the refined technique?
  23. Stu.

    KEA 2017 builds

    I know you've built some beautiful guitars in the past, but that padauk SS might be my favourite. The whole thing just works and looks refined as hell.
  24. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Thank you for the kind words! It's high praise coming from you chaps. I finished my inlay drawings and milled them this week, ready for inlay work at the weekend. Unfortunately, there was a power cut just as I started on 15-24, so I had to pack up and drive home. I also discovered that celluloid does NOT like ca glue; it melts, expants, distorts, screams... I glued the bottoms with a tiny bit of high viscosity ca, and then carefully wicked thin ca into the gaps with ebony dust. It just needs to be left alone to dry, for as long as that takes! Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr This is red glow in the dark pigment mixed with epoxy. The air gaps were filled later: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr by S K, on Flickr I'll give those a week before attempting to level and radius anything. I also had a look at the body. I think the dark section is going to blend really nicely when I work the bevels in: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Very premature mock-up: Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  25. Stu.

    Finished Pics! Swift Lite 2

    I love how you made those knobs! It's nice to see a method that doesn't require a lathe or dodgy drill press set-up.
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