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Stu.

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Everything posted by Stu.

  1. Whilst I'm waiting for the purple oddity to cure, I figured I might as well get started on this one. I bought the wood for my birthday, back in July, so it's about time I did something. It'll make good use of a lot of hardware I've had hanging around too. The drawings look a little like this: Plan by S K, on Flickr The shape is slightly too wide for my body slabs, which forced me to bulk out the centre with black limba, walnut and maple veneer. The neck is composed of black limba, wenge and maple veneer - the maple veneer wasn't long enough to make a complete neck blanks, so I've made a separate section for the scarf/headstock. The neck laminates are glued and clamped at the moment, and I did lots of prep this weekend. Hopefully next weekend will see more glue action Oh, and I treated myself to a tiny bandsaw on Christmas Eve (I think it's the cheapest one in the UK at the moment). It's a Titan thing from ScrewFix, which has been amazing so far. I gave it a decent set-up and it's exceeding my modest expectations. Wood stock: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Centre block: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Body wood: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Neck wood: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Bookmatched headstock faceplate: Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  2. Watching your last cutter flex momentarily and then snap is a wonderful
  3. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I wish I could take credit, but I basically stole the idea from the ESP Alexi Blacky model! It's such a good combination though. Unless I change my mind overnight, I'm not heading back to do any guitar work this weekend. I did manage to solve my CNC issue though! I've used a small gantry with four wheels, which is attached to the cradle via a 90° bracket and runs along the top section of 2020. It's just enough to stabilise everything whilst it moves. Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  4. I can't wait to see how this turns out! Your stuff never disappoints.
  5. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I saw his CNC build thread... that thing is insane! I have the rails installed - there's a bit of deflection in the Z axis, towards the weight of the motor. I'm thinking about attaching a bearing beneath the cradle, with a length of 2020 and PTFE strip to run against. It might be enough for the thing to reference against and stay level. I took things very easy this weekend. Just a bit of slot sawing, fingerboard binding, and truss rod routing jig prep: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  6. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    This is kind of unrelated... I fancied extending the working area of my little CNC machine. I used 2020 and 2080 aluminium extrusion to extend the X axis and bed, with a longer lead screw to match. The 8mm stainless steel rod should arrive this weekend to support the cradle. Hopefully it won't flex, but I'll find out soon! Untitled by S K, on Flickr If everything goes to plan, it'll have a working area of 500x100mm (just enough for a 25.5" fingerboard with 24 frets).
  7. The headstock is looking very tidy indeed! All of the effort and prep definitely paid off!
  8. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    These are pretty sweet!
  9. Stu.

    Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    That's a beautiful shade of green! Did you do much build-up, or is that one concentration straight onto the maple?
  10. My bad! Feel free to ignore my previous post. I'll give a sharp 10mm forstner a try next time.
  11. Stu.

    resin/wood composite body

    Are you thinking of Stone Wolf Guitars in the UK?
  12. The finish is unbelievable! I always thought that level of gloss only achievable with 2k or similar. Bravo for the finish on top and craftmanship beneath!
  13. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    I think it gets pointier with each update!
  14. I don't know if this is helpful, but I've seen people using these Bosch tile bites for tuner and bridge holes: I've bought one myself in the hope that it'll drill clean, accurate holes... particularly through cured finish, which has a tendency to crack. It seems worth experimenting with.
  15. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Hopefully you're feeling better! What's the timescale like for shrinkage? Fingers crossed it's the kind of issue that presents after decades of my terrible playing! A little quick-set epoxy and ebony dust did the job very nicely for the remaining inlays. I finished those off, radiused the fingerboard, and then carved the bevels into the body. The bevel angle is actually closer to 20°, so using a chamfer bit wasn't an option; I went with my Shinto and Dragon rasps, which worked wonderfully! There's still lots of tidying up to be done, and I have to be super careful not to ding it now. Edit: I chose to carve matching bevels on the front and rear (more akin to an ESP SV/Alexi), to shed some weight and make it look sleeker. There's enough space between for the Strat style jack plate. Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr The weekend wasn't without problems, as you'd expect! There were air bubbles in the red epoxy, which I'll need to fill when I get chance. I also trimmed the fingerboard down a little too far; I was going to glue the fingerboard on with maple veneer between it and the neck, but I've decided instead to glue the veneer on and then hide it under the binding. Hopefully it makes the fingerboard look taller without compromising anything.
  16. Stu.

    KEA 2017 builds

    Those EMGs are very sweet!
  17. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Between work and travelling, I've made the tiniest amount of progress this week! Only a little sanding and cutting the pockets for the last inlays: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr There are still some glue and paint pen marks to sand out, but they'll disappear later. I'll be using ebony dust and epoxy resin to secure and fill those inlays. Hopefully the celluloid will be stable with that.
  18. Even your test scraps are prettier than most guitars! Do you have a project in mind for the refined technique?
  19. Stu.

    KEA 2017 builds

    I know you've built some beautiful guitars in the past, but that padauk SS might be my favourite. The whole thing just works and looks refined as hell.
  20. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Thank you for the kind words! It's high praise coming from you chaps. I finished my inlay drawings and milled them this week, ready for inlay work at the weekend. Unfortunately, there was a power cut just as I started on 15-24, so I had to pack up and drive home. I also discovered that celluloid does NOT like ca glue; it melts, expants, distorts, screams... I glued the bottoms with a tiny bit of high viscosity ca, and then carefully wicked thin ca into the gaps with ebony dust. It just needs to be left alone to dry, for as long as that takes! Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr This is red glow in the dark pigment mixed with epoxy. The air gaps were filled later: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr by S K, on Flickr I'll give those a week before attempting to level and radius anything. I also had a look at the body. I think the dark section is going to blend really nicely when I work the bevels in: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Very premature mock-up: Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  21. Stu.

    Finished Pics! Swift Lite 2

    I love how you made those knobs! It's nice to see a method that doesn't require a lathe or dodgy drill press set-up.
  22. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    Thank you! I have an overwhelming desire to proceduralise everything, just like being at work!
  23. It is possible to get good at using a router, so don't be disheartened. It's very similar to driving; slow down to give yourself thinking time, always have an escape route, and know when to stop if you're tired. Everyone has different pitfalls, but mine have always been from trying to get too much done (eagerness, naivity, time pressure) and being tired. You're also doing incredibly well with such a challenging first build! Technically I started my first build at 22 (10 years ago) and everything was a disaster; huge glue gaps, truss rod channel routed with a drill press, a narrow fingerboard, wonky neck profile, unpolished frets, almost flat fingerboard radius, thin headstock, and factory-cut nut. It kind of played, but the cost was far too high It literally ended up in a fire and I've purged it from my building history. Yours is far from that!
  24. Stu.

    JimF's First Build!

    Cheating? That's some smart outsourcing in my eyes If you're short on time, it's worth spending the extra £15-20 to have the board slotted and radiused. You'll need to check the slot depths and polish the board up, but it'll give you more confidence. Everyone uses router templates too; only real thrillseekers go freehand! Oh, and IronGear pickups are excellent, especially for the price. Pace yourself and enjoy the ride!
  25. Stu.

    Black Limba Flying V

    The templates arrived a week or two back: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Progress! Headstock faceplate gluing, template prep, body routing and headstock routing: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr I'm pretty happy with the glue joints and the routing so far. I had to take it very slow, using shallow passes and a very sharp cutter for the points. There's a little furring, but no real tear-out to speak of. The only issue at this stage is that the ears weren't quite long enough for the headstock; the faceplate thickness shifted the front of the headstock further than I'd anticipated, so I'll have to sand the sides until the little right angle gets worked out.
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