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Building JS-7 copy


RGGR

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The pic do have what you call the compressed lines all over thye edges, but they will be even on the top of the quilt and not the way they looked on that pic. Look at the scraps that I used to test the stain for my guitar,

DSC01854.jpg

and you will see the same type of lines on the bottom left one, but not on the other 2.

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Quick update.

Sprayed primer on body and headstock and sanded everything back. Went through another primer and sanding cycle to get everything smooth. (pics will follow.)

Needs one more cycle......before painting.

Then I married the neck up with the body. Yipppekayeeee! :D

(used shorter and smaller screws so real neck screws will still have plenty of wood to grip on)

Yes!!!

Suddenly it looks like a guitar. :D Oh, yeeaaa!!!!

Yesterday I measured out the distance of the trem studs. Today I repeated this 24,987 times. With Low B and high E string strung up in nut and tremolo I positioned the trem in relation to neck. Then I drilled the holes and layed out rest of trem routing.

Already finished trem routing templates......As base I used routing info available on Floyd Rose website.....but laying everything out on paper I wasn't so very pleased with the FR routes.....made some adjustments in Autocad and drawn up my own.

Tomorrow will route trem cavity. Ieeeeeeks........

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Okay......need your advice on this one.

Routed OFR-7 cavity today. I could cut my hands on routes if I wanted too. Everything is looking very sharp. (Guess, trick in doing this in having nice and clean templates.)

But now my question. On FR website.....on templates a distance is given of 71.76mm from trem stud centerline to end of trem cavity. I used distance of 72mm on my routes.

So far so good.......but with test fitting the trem I noticed....that distance between clambing nut (bolt that runs through trem to lock down the strings in nuts) and the back of the cavity is nice narrow/slim (when intonation screws are in middle position, and nut is in most backward position)....BUT......if I would clamb the nut in last intonation nut position....I see possible issue with spacing between that bolt and end of cavity.

On most 7s I see trem nuts intonated further back on lower strings......meaning...if I leave it like this.....I might run out of intonation room. Problem is.......when discover this, is when guitar is painted and strung up. Then i'm too late to correct it.

Fail save option is to go for little more backward route in trem cavity. In following pic (pic from pinned trem routing templates thread).

tremrout-template-OFR.jpg

......a distance between trem stud center line and back cavity is given of 75.75mm (36.75mm + 39mm).... Doing this will mean little more routing and bit more empty space will show up in back of cavity.

So choice is.........live dangerously and go for nice narrow/slim routing .... and might run out of intonation room (if needed)

Or.....go for fail save method and live with little wider trem route, at same time making sure I don't end up with something like this.

front_body.jpg

Hope I explained it clearly.

Edited by RGGR
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All I could say is that if you measure the scale correctly, all you need to do is measure how far the intonation screw will go back and this is as far as you will have to rout to be safe. But on the same note, of the FR guitars that I had none of them I had to set the screw all the way out. And I think that the guy on that guitar routed way too much wood, or he had a regular FR and changed it for a low pro, on which the intonation screws don't go that far.

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It's Rob Balducci's new Custom indeed, but I would have expected better job of Custom shop. Quilt is awesome but doesn't match. Also not big fan of how green paint came out (although that's personal).

Guitar also has off-side dots fretmarkers on high E side of guitar. Pretty cool feature, and Rob commented that this did effect him while playing. (I expected his hands to cover the off-set dots on that side of the fretboard.)

Well....back to my JS-7.......decided to route trem cavity few mm further back.......guess for first build just wanna be on safe side. Living dangerously will have to wait for day.

Edited by RGGR
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I took my RG550 all apart a few weeks ago to put a new pickup in it, and I pulled the bridge to get the pickguard off. While I had it out, I just got a piece of black stick on felt, cut it to the shape of the bottom of the trem cavity, and stuck it in there. It looks LOADS nicer now, so if you do end up thinking that your route is too long you could do that and i think to most people the issue would all but go away.

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Would it be nice to have one of these machines...... :D

46.jpg

Only for 15 minutes....PLEASE!!!!....programming I will take care of myself......

And are these some gorgeous necks, or what? :D

http://www.stnk.ru/olympus/pix/dr/j/44.jpg

Not sure what function is of that little lip in neck, where neck meets the body.

Could it be, so there is little more wood, so 3D CNC machine can make nice smooth transition from neck to body on neck-through??

Edited by RGGR
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Notice the same "Auschwitz" type furnaces over there.  B)

*Edit* Someone commented that furnaces might be for drying the wood blanks.

Well I hope all it is is a wood kiln! :D I don't think there's too many Jewish people in Southeast Asia to start with. :D By making the comments he and I just made, we were not intent on hurting anyone's feelings and don't endorse Neo-Nazism; I don't at least.

Anyways, that is some killer stuff! Shows you they aren't just taking a hammer and chisel and slapping something together! (although I totally knew that already) I think it'd make Fender and Gibson soil themselves! :D

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Hear, hear!!!

Darn are you guys demanding. :D

Okay, what have I been up to lately.

1. Primer body and headstock

2. Test fitted neck

3. Installed top nut.

4. Did test string-up to mark out exact location of tremolo.

5. Routed OFR-7 cavities (front and back)

6. Installed trem studs.

Currently are working on templates for pick-up routes. Also waiting for both backplates (control cover and trem cover). Marked small irregularities (with black marker) on body to point out areas that need some more attention. (read: primer and sanding).

Comfortable with routing so no major show stoppers there. Only bit of concern is drilling the fretmarkers and the tuner holes in headstock.

JS_primer_backside.jpg

JS_primer_frontside.jpg

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Already have next project in the works. :D

RG-7 QL RBB XL

- RG-7 (27" scale, 24 frets)

- Limba wings, quilted maple top

- 5 piece laminated wenge/maple neck-through

- Royal Brown Burst finish.

- Trying to get my hands on Edge Lo Pro 7 trem

- TZ-7/AN-7 or SD JB7/59-7 combo.

P1010078.jpg

Neck blanks are currently being cut and plained.

Edited by RGGR
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