rspst14 Posted October 13, 2004 Report Share Posted October 13, 2004 Hey guys, a while back, I accidentally got a drop of super glue on the finish of my Peavey Wolfgang while fixing a stripped pickup mounting hole. I removed it as best as I could, but there is still a small spot on the finish where the glue was. You can't see it unless you look at the finish closeup under good lighting conditions, but is there anything I can use to remove the glue residue without damaging the finish? It doesn't bother me personally, but I'm planning on selling the guitar, and I'm sure that the glue spot will hurt the resale value. StewMac sells a super glue removing compound, but I'm afraid that it might damage the finish. Does anyone have any tips on how to fix this? Thanks. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted October 13, 2004 Report Share Posted October 13, 2004 Acetone is the usual thing used to dissolve superglue, it works very fast but it could damage the finish. Ethanol or methanol might be easier on the finish, but also easier on the superglue. You could even try rubbing alcohol, but I have no idea if that would attack the superglue. Naptha??? Whatever solvent you use, try it on a bit of the finish that is covered by something (pickguard, knob, trem cover, whatever) before using it on a part of the body that people will actually see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevan Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENT (Acetone, Naptha, MEK, etc). Use soap and water, and a small, soft, sponge. VERY small amounts of both, and be VERY careful (mask off surrounding finish with paper towels). Depending on the outcome and pressure used to remove the CA, you might need to do a little buff job on the clear, but it won't be major. I've never tried it, but a few drops of GooGone might also do it. Do a test spot first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 I would just use a cabinet scraper and scrape it down to flush. But this is taking for granted you have one and know how to use it. To be perfectly honest with you, if you know very little about finishes and whatnots, you'd be better off just leaving it there rather than risk doing further damage than is already done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 I'd bypass the cabinet scraper and use a..... say..... .011 razor blade as a scraper.it will be a bit more flexible so as to conform to any contour on the body, but you still must be very careful, because the thin nature of the blade can cause a chatter in the scraping action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rspst14 Posted October 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 Thanks guys. I did try Goo Gone, and while it does seem to have helped a little bit, I can't seem to get the rest of it off. I'm not going to try scraping or doing any kind of refinishing. I don't have the tools or knowledge to do that, and screwing it up would hurt the resale value much more than a small glue spot. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 You need to try CA remover on another part of the finish. There will be plenty of areas in the electronics cavity, under the neckplate, etc. Most of the time, if it's any kind of typical factory poly, it can withstand acetone or bottled CA remover in conservative amounts and in short time spans. Just clean it off with alcohol, or even CA accelerator when you're done. If you've scraped it down to just a thin film this should work perfectly. The worst case scenario with a good hard poly is that you'll chemically etch it or put micro-scratches in with your rag. Those will easily buff out without wet-sanding. Yes, the CA remover can soften your finish, but it's all about the duration and quantity. A setup monkey at Cort once superglued a truss rod cover onto a headstock trying to seat a nut. And I mean he leaked it all under the whole thing. I had to practically soak it in CA remover. It softened the finish after about 15 minutes, but the finish re-hardened just fine within an hour or so. That one was bad enough I had to wetsand and buff it. But it was fully cured and good as new after the buff. If it's a Korean Wolfgang you've got no worries. If it's USA I don't know what they use but it's not nitro or acrylic so you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Cavanaugh Posted October 15, 2004 Report Share Posted October 15, 2004 (edited) I don't see how Acetone would hurt Poly much, which I'm sure your guitar is. If it were lacquer, then I'd be afraid. Actually, I've used nail polish remover (acetone based) on a guitar to remove A LOT of nail polish and it worked fine and didn't damage the poly finish at all. Edited October 15, 2004 by Kyle Cavanaugh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.