Southpa Posted July 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2005 (edited) Your darn right it isn't my first. Not my first on that particular guitar either. Its all trial and error and if you screw it up, or simply don't like the results, you have to be ready with the sandpaper. I would call the burst on the tele a "spatter" burst. I collected a few used Windex bottles and used the spray nozzles to shoot my dyes. The method can be found in this forum's tutorials, re: Poor Boy's Burst set up by Brian Calvert. I notched the edges of the cardboard templates to break the spray up. And I used more than one size template for each color. I first washed (rubbed on w/ a rag) the entire body with Golden Glow, then laid my first, smaller template down and sprayed Tangerine, then laid the full size template and sprayed Pagoda Red. Heres a pic of me shooting. If you look to the left you can see my other templates and my beer. You MUST drink beer while attempting this process. Just enough to get the right stagger in your walk to get the proper effect. Edited July 16, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 16, 2005 Report Share Posted July 16, 2005 Pretty cool way to do a burst! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 (edited) Just a little closure for this project, sorry, should have done it a few months ago, when Sept GOTM was happening. The finished guitar ...TADAAAA! http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8186/telecaster4oe.jpg http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/267/back9ly.jpg http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8430/headstock2vy.jpg http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8343/vertigo1fi.jpg Edited October 12, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8rofwyo Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Voted for it then, and would do it again in a heart beat. Beautiful job, southpa, hope to see more in the future. In the mean time thanks for the helpful advice and insights. Nate Robinson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 (edited) Thankyou Nate. The real beauty was the ease and expense (or lack thereof) in building. I took my sweet time and it did not involve anything complicated. I'd say IN TOTAL the guitar cost me about $200 cdn. Thats basically all the hardware ('cept for tuners and neck pup) as I got the wood for free. And, the part that counts the most, its a real player and beats the hell out of any stamped out factory knockoff selling for the same price. Edited October 13, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Great job Southpa! I'm not a Tele guy but I really like this guitar. Do you like the way it feels, sounds? I know a lot of people go running to the hills when someone mentions that they are considering building an all maple guitar - screaming "NOOOO!! TOO BRIGHT!!!". My experience has been that I actually like all maple guitars. Cherry is another wood that I like to use - it gives a very similar sound as hard maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted October 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 (edited) It sounds just the way a tele should sound. I enjoy playing it clean (no effects) more than anything else. The maple I used wasn't really up there on the "hardness" scale as compared to eastern maple so I don't really see tonal effects being a real serious issue. The only change I made was to use a .047 mfd cap instead of the usual .022 cap. Edited October 14, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blink 182 Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 Great work I especially like the one piece maple body. Man I just cant get over how nice maple is, especially this piece before the finish (although I like the finish also), personally I dont like flamed maple all that much and I actually think that the natural grain of normal maple lookes more like a flame than what everyone refers to as flame. It sucks about the one piece neck not working out because I love one piece necks. I have a question is the headstock on your tele slightly different to a normal tele? oh yer and don't take this offensivly Southpa cause its a (sort of) good thing but you look a lot like one of the fellas from cheech and chong LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted October 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 oh yer and don't take this offensivly Southpa cause its a (sort of) good thing but you look a lot like one of the fellas from cheech and chong LOL Nah, I may act like Tommy Chong at times, but I certainly don't look like him...I'm much taller! As for the headstock, yes, very astute observation, blink182. Its slightly narrower than the "regulation" size. Just to be a little different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassisgreat Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 That is a very special Tele! Great job. You should invest in a hands free beer delivery system (most likely to be found in helmet form) for those times when you need both hnds to spray your finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerHunter Posted November 11, 2005 Report Share Posted November 11, 2005 Hey Southpa, Looks awesome. I'm thinking of using the same spray bottle technique (blue burst)for my project on quilted maple. Any tips on using the spray bottles? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted November 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2005 Just try to maintain the same angle as you spray around the guitar and make sure the guitar is accessible from all angles, you don't want to have to move it half way thru the job. Remember this is a "spatter" burst, on close inspection of my guitar you will see little bits of the outside edge color on the yellow inside areas. Kind of a nice effect, reminds me of a ripe peach. If you want a finer edge then you should go with something that is going to aspirate your dye into finer particles. I used the spray nozzles from Windex bottles etc. This makes a fairly ragged edge to the burst so its harder to control the evenness, ie. depth of spray. I would spray at a steeper angle first, say 45 degrees and see if thats the edge you want. If you want to go further in then a shallower angle is the ticket. The rest is just squirt, squirt squirt! as evenly as you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerHunter Posted November 13, 2005 Report Share Posted November 13, 2005 We have some pretty good plant sprayers that I use to use for window tinting. That might do the trick. They atomize pretty good. Can the splatter spots be blended afterwards? I'm just looking to darken the edge a bit to highlight the carve top. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted November 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2005 (edited) Can the splatter spots be blended afterwards? I don't quite understand the question. What is the base color you are using? ie. for the center of the body. I'm assuming it is a color that works well with your blue burst. You'll just have to try it and see if you like it. Ya never know. Just be warned, if you mess around with a dye job afterwards like trying to sand things out you are asking for trouble. Another tip, don't mix the dye too strong. Pigments in the dye can be large particles and clumpy. Don't wait too long while shooting, I've had to unclog a few nozzles in the past. You'll have to experiment with concentrations. As soon as the dye is dry its time for the clearcoat. If you are happy with the results, that is. You can always reshoot some areas. You are looking for basic "evenness" in depth and color concentration. If you shoot too far then its got to be sanded out, thats why I recommended starting at a steep angle to get the feel of things. The beginning of the clearcoating stage is crucial. It depends on whether you are using nitro lacquer or polyurethane. Lacquer is easier because you don't have to scuff between coats. But it lays down thin and I hate the smell, high solvent stuff. I like poly better, lays down thicker, but you have to scuff between shooting sessions. If you sand thru and touch your dye job, that makes a SERIOUS flaw. You'll never get the dye color/texture back as well as repair the "window" you have just created. Been there many times. I've got one guitar that I've stripped about 8 times, but I think I got it right this time. Edited November 13, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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