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A top to die for


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Looks sweet :D how many coats of clear do you have on it, that part looks thick.

Brian,

First, there was 2 coats of clear to seal the wood (necessary evil)

Then 3 coats of clear with the orange color tint for the top. Then 2 coats of straight clear to get it all level. Then just the dark brown burst.

Then one coat of clear just to seal all of the guitar once more. A light sanding was done to the back and sides, then 3 coats of clear with black tint was applied to the back and sides, the top was masked off at that point, then the mask removed, and the black burst.

Then 3 coats of clear, sanded out level, and 2 final coats. So really in total, there was 11 coats on the front (not counting the seal coats, since they don't count as build or finish clear) and 7 or 8 on the back. This was all sprayed with mixing the base into the clear though, so that all includes the color coats as well.

The entire paint job ended up about .050" thick if you were to remove a layer of paint.

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Did you have any problems with the veneer "bubbleing" up on you?

Dave,

None, the trick is, apply your first coat of clear really light, let it seal the wood without saturating it. Also, be sure to use only the yellow titebond glue or alaphatic resin. Standard white glue is crap, it won't do what you want it to..

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Would you still apply clear first if you are planning on Dyeing the veneer?

Wouldn't the clear prevent the dye from penetrating the wood?

I am VERY currious on this...my attempt at applying a veneer was a DISASTER.....I often refer to it as the "hindenburg project"

Dave

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if you are going to stain the veneer then no, you wouldn't.

If you use titebond (yellow glue) the stain should not hurt the bond at all (I would use an alcohol based stain)

With this guitar, the veneer was to thin, only .020" thick, I put the glue on as thin as possible, but it still saturated parts of the veneer which would have made the stain look splotchy, which is why I sealed it all with clear first.

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