Different Kind Of 8 String

[Mickguard]

What about this idea: instead of making a 12-string guitar, is it possible to just double up the top 2 strings?

That would give some of the jangle n' chime of a 12-string, without the tuning hassles and the issues with neck strength...(one could always use lighter strings for the top end).

Seems like it would be easy enough to add an extra notch to a TOM saddle for example. Adding an extra notch for the nut wouldn't be too tough either.

The only difficult part might be fitting extra tuners to the headstock-- but not impossible...

Hmm... I just happen to have an extra guitar lying around here...

Edited January 2, 2005 by idch

[goth_fiend]

you could do that, or you could mount the 2 extra tuners on the back of the body and have ferrules going in the neck (old school bc rich, neal moser way) sounds kinda cool, but I will take my 8 anyday! (f# and B strings, fagettaboutit!)

[tirapop]

Someone used to make 10-strings that were just 12-strings without doubling the strings on the two bass strings.

If you're only going to add a pair of light gage strings, maybe look at banjo tuners. They don't need to be located near the edge of the headstock, with the knobs inline with the shaft. I don't know if the shaft would get in the way. They make detuning banjo tuners, so, you could have fun with tunings of those two strings.

[westhemann]

Someone used to make 10-strings that were just 12-strings without doubling the strings on the two bass strings.

bc rich

[goth_fiend]

neal still does man!

[frank falbo]

A strat headstock can easily accept up to three tuners on the treble side. Even an Ibanez or other 6 in line headstock that flares out on the treble side should be able to accept two.

I used to make 9-strings, but the bottom 3 strings were octaved. I wasn't after the chimey double strings, I wanted the octaves. Then you could still solo away like a regular electric guitar. You can't really bend notes on a 12-string, but this way you could get the fullness of the extra octaves without the limits of play on the trebles. I thought about a 10-string, but the octaved G string is the one that breaks all the time anyway. So I left it off, plus you use and bend the G for solos all the time.

Also when I made them, I adjusted the nuts so that if you removed the three octave strings, you had relatively normal string spacing. That way you could go back and forth. If you centered the octave pairs, then the fundamental strings would be way off if you converted back. So maybe locate your two treble doubles next to the originals instead of centering the pair. For the bridge you could add one notch to the side, or you could add one notch on either side. That way you could have a center notch for when you're playing normal, or a centered pair when you're doubled.

Now that I think about it, you could do the same thing with the nut, but you'd have to have something like brass; something strong enough to withstand three little slots all right next to eachother.

[Mickguard]

Ah octaves...yeah, I didn't think of that....makes more sense. That would give the chime I'm looking for without getting in the way. Especially since I play a lot of partial chords on the upper strings.

I would probably still stick with an 8-string design --if I doubled up the A and D strings, or the D and G strings, that should be enough.

An advantage with going for the D and G would be that I could add my tuners to the top center of the headstock. The neck I have available here for this is a 3x3 gibson type--it would be easy enough to fill in the existing holes and redrill it for 4 on a side instead.

I was wondering if adding extra strings on just one side wouldn't introduce too much pull to that side--wouldn't it warp /twist the neck?

Thanks for giving me something to think about.