Maiden69 Posted April 28, 2005 Report Share Posted April 28, 2005 Don't use a plate, do like this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01751.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01696.jpg much better and practical, don't get in your way playing either standing on seating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted April 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2005 Maiden69: You are THE MAN!!!!!!!!! Done and done! I assume I will first drill hole large enough to fit the jack, then use a forstner bit and drill press to make the larger recession? Also, do you direct mount the jack itself, or do you use an endpin style jack? Again, thanks for that amazing suggesiton!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 28, 2005 Report Share Posted April 28, 2005 Not a bad idea. <ponders and considers> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted April 28, 2005 Report Share Posted April 28, 2005 Here is the Jack and here is the tutorial. Just instead of on the side you do it in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted April 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2005 I have sketched out the control cavity and the jack position, following Maiden69's suggestion. Let me know if this looks ok, please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted April 29, 2005 Report Share Posted April 29, 2005 Here is the Jack and here is the tutorial. Just instead of on the side you do it in the back. ← Something's not right. Hmmm ... Here's the tutorial, Here is the jack Instead of on the side You do it in the back Much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted April 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2005 AHAHAHA! Looks like we've got a talented poet on our hands!! Now Im torn, who gets more credit, Maiden69, or marksound? EDIT: For the poem, i mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted April 30, 2005 Report Share Posted April 30, 2005 Maiden gets the credit. It's his words; I just moved em around a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted April 30, 2005 Report Share Posted April 30, 2005 Hey I can say it in spanish too, it will make more sense too. I was going to be sarcastic, but I realy don't care as long as the person understands what I wanted to say!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2005 The control cavity has been routed without issue. Now I need to decide on the control layout and drill the holes, finish contouring the neck, and drill the tuner holes. Then its final sanding and paint. A little update on the paint situation...Turns out I know someone who knows someone who does custom auto finishes. I have yet to speak to him, but I am undecided if I want to deny myself that ever-so-valuable finishing experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2005 Picture Update! I finally found some time to snap pic of the routed control cavity and finished tummy contour. To route the control cavity, I made 2 templates. The first was used to rout the cavity itself, which I did first. For this I used a 1/4in piece of plywood, drew the inner cavity dimensions on it, and took out the excess with a forstner bit. I then cleaned the inside edges with a file, and taped it to the body. This template can be clean, but doesnt need to be perfect, as its going to be covered by the control cover. Also, the template can be somewhat thin, as you are going to take the router deep into the wood. After clearing the hole with a forstner, I cleaned the cavity with multiple router passes. Even though the template was thin, my 1" router bit still wouldnt reach the propler cavity depth, so I just removed the template and used the existing rout as a guide for the bearing. This brought the cavity to the perfect depth. Next, I made the template for the cavity cover recess. I did this using the same process as outlined above, only I tranferred the shape onto two 3/4in pieces of 6" wide scrap I had lying around and screwed them together. This template needs to be thick, as you are only going to be taking a small amount of wood out for the cavity cover recess. The reason I did this after the main cavity rout was so I could visially place the recess in the best area...no fancy see through acrylic templates here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 UPDATE! Say hello to Uncle Bill everyone: My order for 3 Bill Larence Pickups came in today. I ordered one L-500R and two L-500XL's. I plan on using one XL and one R for this project. I shaped most of the neck yesterday, and hope to finish it tonight, but am having problems with the volute. In an earlier post I mentioned that I cut the headstock a little thin, and now the problem is transitioning from the thinner-than-normal headstock to the neck/volute. Can you all please give me ideas for shaping it from here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 Can't help with any pointers about anything-- just wanted to quickly say that you did some great work on the tummy contour and the electronics cavity! Top notch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 Thanks alot GregP!! With regards to an earlier question, I check the fit of the pickups with the pickup ring, and the neck pup w/ring DOES in fact fit with the neck in place. This means that if I so choose, I can use a pup ring if I want. I think I will, because I used a standard pickup cavity, as opposed to one with smaller ears (like ibanez uses). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2005 Update: Bridge and OBL on body Side of Fretboard Side/Top of Fretboard Commentary to come asap...work calls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted May 5, 2005 Report Share Posted May 5, 2005 Great job so far. For the volute all you need to do is to round it out, like a bike ramp, it doesn't have to be hugem a subtle volute will look great and still maintain strength better than the sharp edge you have now. And I don't know if you are leaving the headstock like you have it now, but I think that the straight top detracts from the flowing curves of the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 Worked extra late tonight, so no work on the volute. Thanks for the advice Maiden...bike ramp it is! As far as the headstock, I kinda like the small radius curve on the top of the headstock. Your advice is noted, however, and changes are not entirely out of the question. I was searching through old threads in the In Progress section, and noticed one of the first ones about Draks bubinga veneered Rhoads V. That, along with the "Beautiful Bubinga" post a few days ago motivated me to purchase some veneer. Since bubinga is one of my favorite woods, I went with that, and have now received it. Very beautiful wood indeed!!! Not to my question...in your opinions, is it work risking the possibility of screwing up this project for the sake of an awesome bubinga veneer on the top and headstock??? EDIT: Pic of Bubinga Veneer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 6, 2005 Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 EDIT: Pic of bubinga veneer! ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted May 6, 2005 Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 Definately use it, it will beat any paint job any day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted May 6, 2005 Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 OMG!!!! that veneer rocks You have to use it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 Right now Im on the fence. I am sifting through all the veneer topics that came up in my searches to determine if it is worth the risk. I find this sandbag method very interesting. It seems like it would be easier than clamping it. Any advice on which to use that might not come up in the searches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2005 Update: I have glued some of the bubinga veneer onto the headstock. I came out very nice, with no bubbly pockets or anything. On an unrelated note, I installed a L-500XL in my V. Overall, I am extremely happy with its sound. I feel like it takes up where the Duncan Distrotion I had in the V left off. It had better clarity, and is smoother. Surprisingly enough, it complements the '59 I have in the neck very well indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted May 10, 2005 Report Share Posted May 10, 2005 Man I love that veneer! I'm such a sucker for gorgeous wood like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pibrocher Posted May 10, 2005 Report Share Posted May 10, 2005 Well i think that settles it. We all love shiny finishes but its really those crazy woods that get us all excited. I agree too, i am a sucker for a top like that. Would never want to cover a beautiful piece like that up. Great work southpaw. Keep the good pics coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted May 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2005 Thanks alot Pibrocher! I also totally prefer natural finishes! I am getting cold feet though, as I am very nervous about messing up the body. The waterfall bubinga, I think due to its quilt, has some wavy texture to it, and isnt totally level. With pressure, it flattens out no problem, but again, I still dont know if I want to risk messing up the body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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