Reaper Posted June 30, 2003 Report Share Posted June 30, 2003 Ok, I'm in the process of building an axe that's turning into something like the JS-6 (the oiled mahogany hardtail model). I have an RG, and can trace the body design, and I have the Jem blueprints from Jemsite, but I don't have any access to these things for a JS type guitar. My question is this: what alterations do I need to make to an RG type to convert it to an S? What curves need to be increased/reduced? Obviously the lower (and probably upper) horns need to be softened, but what else needs to be done? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted June 30, 2003 Report Share Posted June 30, 2003 isn't the top kinda carved? espacially on the left side of the pickups ( the side without volume knobs if it's a right hander's guitar) hence they say it has an "aerofoil shape" you might end up kinda guessing that parts based on the pics on the ibanez website... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted June 30, 2003 Report Share Posted June 30, 2003 There's a link to the JS Blueprint Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGM Guitars Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 you won't be able to make it exact, the JS horns are wider than an RG, you will run out of wood. the JS horns are shorter, so that's not an issue, just the width will be hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 you won't be able to make it exact, the JS horns are wider than an RG, you will run out of wood. the JS horns are shorter, so that's not an issue, just the width will be hard. OK, this is what I was looking for. BTW, I'm not turning an RG into a JS, I just have the body outline (and all the wood I need). The JS blueprint's nice, but unless I can really compare it to an RG or print it off, it really doesn't do me much good... So just shorten, fatten up, and round off the horns? Thanks, Jer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 just print it off using turbo cad 2 i just learned how with the help of some of you guys, but it does take a while to tape all the pages together correctly, then cut out the shape and using the center lines on both guitars compare shape. One more thing, you're not going to be able to place the bridge and the pickups like they are on the JS model's cause the neck only has 21 frets where as the RG almost certainly has 24, it's something alot of poeple over look, so you're going to have to move the JS design around on your RG once you add the wood the the horns and figure out what you want to shave off where to get the best looking JS/RG highbrid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGM Guitars Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 JS has 22 frets actually, but the bridge places exactly in the same location in relation to the nut, both guitars are 25.5" scale length. Where you have to compensate is in your neck pocket, your neck pocket will be APPROXIMATELY 1/2" further from your bridge and so your neck pickup can move as well. However, if you happen to have a 24 fret neck (which I personally would prefer) it would be identical to the RG. In the case of the pre AANJ JS's, I think the neck pocket is still in the exact same place as on the RG's, the difference is that the fretboard overhang is different on then necks, but I believe that an old style neck joint can swap a 22 and 24 fret neck with no problems because the neck heel is in the same position in relation to the nut. The big trick is to make sure your nut and bridge string contact points are at the proper 25.5" scale length when you route your neck pocket out. Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 ummm yeah. I know about scale length, and I'm probably going to place the bridge after I get the neck set up (the routing has a higher f-up potential with less recourse than screwing in a bridge). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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