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Posted

Last year, I made the decision to build a guitar after I accompanied my friend on a visit to a local luthier in my hometown. After aquiring a majority of the luthier's knowledge, I realized that my dream guitar is a Les Paul style with hallowed out cavities and a glued-in neck. However, I think that might be too formiddable a task for my first guitar because much of the books I have read suggest making a bolt-on neck guitar. Is making a glue-in neck guitar too hard for a beginning guitar?

Also, my dad has two huge pieces of black walnut and maple(4'x0.5') that he said I could use for a guitar, therefore unlocking the possibilty of a neck-through body. Is a neck-through harder too make than the other two?

Thanks

Posted

depends on who you are.i find set necks to be the easiest to build...

neck through is tougher for some

but look.they are ALL difficult and painstaking to build..they will make you cry and when it turns out well they will make you swell with pride.

just build the one you want.to hell with what's "easy"

Posted

Bolt on necks give you some extra margin for error, because it can be shifted a little here and there. If, for example, your bidge ended up being a little of center you could shift the neck a tad. Also, if you don't like the 1st neck you made, you could make another later.

Glue in necks are permanent, so you need to be more careful. Makes for a better heel area if done right.

-Doug

Posted

Each type of neck has different challenges. I find neck-thru is the easy one for me, but that is what I am most used to. Believe it or not bolt on's are harder for me because I am not willing to fudge a bad joint at the body (basically the pocket route and neck shaping are extra tuff work for me). If I was better I could do bolt ons as well as other guys around here. There are advantages and disadvantages to each design type.

The huge factor for a first time project is that if you mess up a bolt on neck you can start over, neck thru you get one shot. Also with a bolt on the body and neck can be worked independant of each other. A neck thru requires you to work with it as one larger piece. Wood required for a bolt on is more efficient dimensionally, thus a little more economical.

Which ever way you go. If you are patient, and careful you should do just fine. There is a lot of help to be had from info found on this board, and a lot of people willing to help you with their experience. Best of luck to ya!

Peace, Rich

Posted (edited)
I realized that my dream guitar is a Les Paul style with hallowed out cavities and a glued-in neck.

There's your answer. A Les Paul with a bolt-on neck is not a Les Paul.

So you're going to have to grit your teeth and go all the way.

Perhaps start off with scrap wood or less expensive wood, get your technique down, then go for your dream guitar.

I don't see any real reason why a setneck would be more difficult than a bolt on though-- you'll be able to make adjustments up until the moment you glue the neck in.

Here's a question for those in the know:

Say he's building a set neck, he's got the tenon and pocket all set, they're nice and tight and all. Can he test the construction by bolting the neck on, stringing up the guitar, making sure it's right? Then he can fill in the bolt holes and glue her up?

Just wondering....since I'm planning a modified set neck soon...

Edited by idch
Posted
ay he's building a set neck, he's got the tenon and pocket all set, they're nice and tight and all. Can he test the construction by bolting the neck on, stringing up the guitar, making sure it's right? Then he can fill in the bolt holes and glue her up?

i run a straightedge(my stainless ruler) up both sides of the neck with the bridge installed,to make sure it centers up...then i glue it in.

Posted

i run a straightedge(my stainless ruler) up both sides of the neck with the bridge installed,to make sure it centers up...then i glue it in.

I'm curious then...if your brdge is a little of center, lets say, how does running the ruler up each side help? You've already got the bridge located and posts drilled, how would you compensate? A glue in neck joint should not allow the neck to move at all. Maybe I'm just having a brain-lock and can't see your point. :D

At my shop, the final bridge location is determined only after verifying the absolute centerline once the neck is in place. This is done similar to what you do with a straight edge on either side of the neck. From there the absolute centerline can be located, which may be a few thousandths different than the original working centerline.

-Doug

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