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Working With Limba/korina


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I have no basis for comparison, but it's what my first project is made with (white limba). It's very straight-grained, and I don't know if that's a contributing factor or not, but when doing pointy bits or bits with sharp curves, you need to go very carefully with your router or large chunks could fly right off. :D

Other than that, I've found it quite nice so far, for a first project. There's been nothing particularly difficult that I've encountered at any rate.

You will need to use pore-filler when getting to the finishing stage, but that's the same as mahogany and many many other woods, so it's not exactly an "exceptional" pain in the arse. Par for the course for many body woods, from what I can tell.

Greg

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I never worked with mahagony, but with Korina(Limba). Therefore I cannot compare the too. What I can say though is that I was surprised who soft limba is, because it is considered a hardwood. It is very easily workable due to it's softness: you can change it's shape in minutes. But you have to be a little carful to not rip out chunks with a router. It is still very stable and sounds great though.

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I have no basis for comparison, but it's what my first project is made with (white limba).  It's very straight-grained, and I don't know if that's a contributing factor or not, but when doing pointy bits or bits with sharp curves, you need to go very carefully with your router or large chunks could fly right off.  :D

Other than that, I've found it quite nice so far, for a first project.  There's been nothing particularly difficult that I've encountered at any rate.

You will need to use pore-filler when getting to the finishing stage, but that's the same as mahogany and many many other woods, so it's not exactly an "exceptional" pain in the arse.  Par for the course for many body woods, from what I can tell.

Greg

I think Mahagony it is fairly soft too to be honest and easily work-able. If limba is like that then great.

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