Micro Mesh

[b5111987]

i bought somw micro mesh to buff up my guitar but iv tried useing it wet and dry but it doesnt really give a good shine to the guitar it still looks a bit scratchy

anyone know exactly how your supposed to use the stuff

Edited July 20, 2005 by b5111987

[Gemleggat]

What grit are you using?

[b5111987]

What grit are you using?

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i got the highest grit and the one bllow it it think its 12000 and 8000 or something like that

[AlGeeEater]

Did you sand the body with any lower grits besides the 2 you mentioned? You could probaly still have lower grit scratches on the body.

[b5111987]

Did you sand the body with any lower grits besides the 2 you mentioned? You could probaly still have lower grit scratches on the body.

←

i used 1000 1200 1500 and 2000 grit wet and dry before hand and the surface it perfectly flat and all the same dullness

[AlGeeEater]

Did you sand the body with any lower grits besides the 2 you mentioned? You could probaly still have lower grit scratches on the body.

←

i used 1000 1200 1500 and 2000 grit wet and dry before hand and the surface it perfectly flat and all the same dullness

←

Then you went straight to 8,000? How long did you sand for. It really sounds like you still have 2000 grit scratches left, but a pic would be nice to see also.

EDIT:Even with MicroMesh, I would still buff the paint out with compounds, regardless.

Edited July 20, 2005 by AlGeeEater

[b5111987]

Did you sand the body with any lower grits besides the 2 you mentioned? You could probaly still have lower grit scratches on the body.

←

i used 1000 1200 1500 and 2000 grit wet and dry before hand and the surface it perfectly flat and all the same dullness

←

Then you went straight to 8,000? How long did you sand for. It really sounds like you still have 2000 grit scratches left, but a pic would be nice to see also.

EDIT:Even with MicroMesh, I would still buff the paint out with compounds, regardless.

←

i sanded with 2000 for ages and its all flat with hardly any scratches visable i men you can see where the paper has been but there arnt any noticable scratches but when i start to buff it up i looks reflective head on but at an angle you ccan see lines when it has been rubbin

+ do i have to use it wet or dry iv tried both but im not sure wich is best

[AlGeeEater]

Did you sand the body with any lower grits besides the 2 you mentioned? You could probaly still have lower grit scratches on the body.

←

i used 1000 1200 1500 and 2000 grit wet and dry before hand and the surface it perfectly flat and all the same dullness

←

Then you went straight to 8,000? How long did you sand for. It really sounds like you still have 2000 grit scratches left, but a pic would be nice to see also.

EDIT:Even with MicroMesh, I would still buff the paint out with compounds, regardless.

←

i sanded with 2000 for ages and its all flat with hardly any scratches visable i men you can see where the paper has been but there arnt any noticable scratches but when i start to buff it up i looks reflective head on but at an angle you ccan see lines when it has been rubbin

+ do i have to use it wet or dry iv tried both but im not sure wich is best

←

No offense, but do you know what buffing is? It's not all just rubbing the body with sandpaper. I suggest you do some reading before you go back to your guitar.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1723

Read up bro!

[DokterPeppor]

I use micro-mesh but after the 2000 you can't go straight to 8000 unless you want to rub the smaller scratches out for hours......literally. I go from 2000 to 3600...then to 6000, then to 8000 and I rarely use 12000. The key is to get rid of the scratches from the previous grit 100%. By doing this you get a deep shine by the time you make it to 8000 or 12000, however skip grits and don't get all of the scratches out results in a dull finish. Hope I explained it well enough.

[mu_sound]

In my job we have to polish metal surfaces so that they are optically flat. That means that the actual surface imperfections are on the order of a wavelength of light....hundreds of nanometers. The only way to do that is as was described above, polishisng away all of the surface imperfections with the lighter grits and just "buff" with the higher grits. We usually start the surface our of the machine shop with a Ra=16 to 32...pretty dull looking, a few lathe marks here and there. We start to polish the surface with 30um diamond grit. This is the step that takes the longest. we then successively step in downward increments (30, 15, 9, 6, 3, 2, 1, .1um) and rarely do I ever go over .1um. There is a conversion factor somewhere for grit# to micron size, but I think 30um=600grit and each time you halve the micron size, you double the grit #. But I digress....

I was told a long time ago by one of our gurus in polishing....If you dont remove all of the scratches with the current grit, when you start using the next size down, all that you do is fill the larger scratch with "slurry" from the smaller size. It gets trapped in the crack and thats what dulls a finish!