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Making A Fretless Bass


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Well, this is kinda long story, but here goes: I've got a friend who's got a friend living close by to both of us, and he was building a house. To make some space for the house, he had to cut down 6 old walnuts, approx 40cm ( ~16') diameters, 2m+ long logs, and didn't know what to do with them. My friend called, we went for a visit and I bought a whole log, shipping & cutting at the mill included for 80 EUR.

On the spot, I saw that he had to dig out the stumps to be able to dig in the fundament, and so I asked abut the price of the stumps, and he was like, well you bought the good wood :D, so if you want, take these for free - I'll even drive them wherever you want them :D I took 3.

I got a guy with a chainsaw, and we made some blanks out of those stumps, and it's been drying for quite a while now. Anyhow, recently I took one out to thickness it and see what texture is hidden under the mess that the chainsaw made, and when planed flat, I just went and hand drawn a bass shape on it, liked it and decided to cut it out. I liked that even better, so I decided to sand it, and realised then that I'm actually making a bass B) Oh well, just a quick one :D so it's gonna be a fretless.

32'

bolt on probably

some exotic that looks & behaves like very yellow maple for neck

a piece of veneer from the body blank for the matching headstock

Well, that's it for now, some more pics soon! Time spent so far - about 3 hours total.

Comments please!

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2904

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2905

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2941

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2942

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2943

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2944

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2945

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=2946

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I'm wondering about the finish myself, nitro or tung? I think covering those natural cavities would be easyer with nitro. Tung seems nice too, but then, I want neck with nitro because of the light coloured wood, cause oiled maple necks tend to get dirty and darken with use. Dunno, but there's still time to think it over...

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Honestly, I don't buy into this 'X finish sounds best'. Finish thickness is key here, and French Polish is easy to put on nice and thin, easily retouched, but also fairly fragile. Popular finish on classicals, fairly popular on steelstring acoustics, and I use it on the necks of all the gloss spray finished bodies I do (oil being the other neck finish of choice). If you oil anything, oil the neck. Laquer has got to be among my least favourite finishes ever for a neck.

I also think that while finish choice is a real issue for acoustics, it's at best a marginal issue for electrics, if it's an issue at all. Polyurethane, polyesther, nitro, shellac, waterbased finishes, whatever. Put them on nice and thin (but thick enough!) and quite worrying about magical tonal properties. Especially if you play your EMG-loaded guitar through 2 Marshall stacks at 11.

Edited by mattia
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I just did the finish on my recent project, it had a walnut top similar to the one that mugattu posted, but a bit more boring - I used KTM-9 - but what I really liked was the way the System 3 epoxy clear coat grain filler stuff brought out the wood - very nice. It darkens it more than you'd expect, and adds contrast. made it "pop" quite a bit.

someday I'll get a camera and pictures . . .

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All tonal voodoo aside, tung oil seems to make walnut really glow-- it brings out the reddish tones and makes the wood look rich and warm. Here's a pic of my first bass, which was black walnut with a tung oil finish.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v79/skibum55...nt=PIC00010.jpg

I finished other pieces of walnut scrap from that same blank with Nitro, linseed oil, and even Carnauba wax, but the tung looked by far the best. The others really don't make it glow like the Tung does.

That said, don't expect anything vaguely reminiscent of durability from tung oil. Walnut is a pretty hard wood, but my bass has suffered some unfortunate nasty cracks about the body, and the finish didn't do anything but make the subsequent dents look really rich and warm. :D

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OK, next batch of pics:

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=3010

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=3011

http://www.spimagehost.com/pic.php?u=226d5FMj&i=3012

I've routed out the neck pocket and the electronics cavity, and also recessed the bridge and the areas for the knobs. I've always had this feeling that the metallic knobs stick out a lot more on those flat bodies, so I decided to sink'em half way.

It still misses the pup cavity, maybe today, but Bill Wyman & The RK are in town, so, not likely...

Started the neck too, no pics for now tho...

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Lookin' good!

I've just completed the finishing on a bass with walnut, and I used Tru Oil (not the same as tung oil). I've never tried tung oil, but this Tru Oil is really great. It is made by Birchwood Casey and is formulated for finishing gun stocks (which are mostly walnut), you can get it just about any place that sells rifles. You have to put it on as thinly as you possibly can (or it will cure up gummy), so it can take awhile to build up the finish, but man I love the stuff. It cured hard enough to pass the fingernail test, I could level sand it with 600 grit paper, then applied a last few coats cut 50/50 with naptha (scuffed with 1000 grit in between coats), the last coat goes on just like glass.

If you want a natural finish with the pores showing, which I think would be great with this bass with the natural edge and all, you'd only need maybe 5 coats + one last 50/50 finish coat.

There are several topics on it if you do a search on Tru Oil and Tru-Oil.

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