ftaf Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 I have an Epiphone Les Paul that I would like to change have only a single bridge pickup. I have all the parts but I'd like to fill in the cavity of the neck pickup, switch and the holes from the pick gaurd. Anyone have any info or links to do this. I know its a job but I love playing this guitar and I really would like to make it mine and have everyone asking, "where did you get that guitar?" Any help would be amazing. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeadJeep Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 I wonder if I can get my reply posted before someone tells you to do a search for this, then shove it. Autobody filler is the way to go, but not bondo. I forget the brand name, but the can is yellow and it's a two part product. There is a blue tube of hardener under the clear lid. The stuff in the can is like a dark mustard color. When you've mixed in enough hardener, the shade of green is medium. When mixed that way it's very workable four about 5 to 8 minutes. It bonds seamlessly, sands to shape easily, takes paint primered or not, and can be built up with additional coats if worked down too far. With this description you can find this product at Auto Zone or maybe Sherwin Williams. Post pics man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftaf Posted October 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 A reply in minutes. Thanks you I have an idea of what your taking about. I'll check it out. As far as pics it might take weeks for me to do but I will when and if I finish... Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 (edited) I would recomend filling as much of the cavity with a tight fitting block of wood(glued in, of course), and then using that body filler. I've use bondo to repair dings, and after you've sprayed epoxy primer, sandable primer, your base coats, and your clear coats, you'd never know it was there. Obviously, it's not mandatory you take it quite that far, depending on the quality you're satisfied with. peace, russ Edited October 5, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 Well, if you really have to fill it, then I go with the garenhanenmanenan's idea. But if you're looking to do something different with the guitar, then I'd look into designing a new pickguard that will cover the hole and eliminate the extra holes in the pickguard problem. Although basically what you're looking at is converting the guitar to an LP Jr, so why not go with a Jr's pickguard (at least that'll give you a good idea of where to go). And if you put a new pickguard on there, you can consider going with a stealth pickup (like a single coil for example) in the neck cavity --but hidden by the pickguard. That way only you'll know it's there..... I mean sure, you can bondo the hell out of the guitar, but then you're in for a full refinish too. With the pickguard idea, you'd be up and running in a day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftaf Posted October 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 well the guitar is an arched top so its going to be hard to do no matter what i choose. i did think about glueing a block of wood in there to make it solid. but i don't know how a pick guard would fit nicely with the arched top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 7, 2005 Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 Idch and his pickguards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted October 7, 2005 Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 (edited) LP jr. is a flat topped guitar. Do you want the results to look good? If yes, then you are looking at a near total refinish. Or at least the top if there is binding on the body. That will also mean a solid color finish. Epoxy a block of wood in, as near flush to the top as possible, and then use filler as mentioned. Build the filler so its "proud" (higher than the top surface) and overlaps the joint between the block and the top. Then carefully sand down to follow the profile of the top and feather the edges outward into the existing finish. Then scuff the rest of the top, prime, paint and clear. I would suggest looking for a filler commonly used in marine repair applications. I've used a product called "Awl-fair", a 50/50 filler mix that cures chemically so there is absolutely NO shrinkage due to solvent/water evaporation. When cured the stuff drills, taps, sands, holds screws etc. just like wood. Its also very lightweight and sticks like s**t to a blanket. If you've ever changed a baby, you'll know what I mean. Edited October 7, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted October 7, 2005 Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 Right I didn't think about the arched part... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted October 7, 2005 Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 Bondo will work with either the flat (Jr) or the carved top. I would suggest the wood better, but since you got the carved top, that means that you have also a set neck like I do! I suggest if you ever consider working with the neck (removing it?) not to use bondo, but use a wood block and keep the glue away from the neck tenon as much as possible. This things are so cheaply made that there is almost always a space between the neck tenon and the pocket, if you fill this with bondo or glue it will be a nghtmare to take out later. On the other hands, if you plan on living the guitar be for the rest of its existance (which is hard once you have been bitten by the guitar modding bug) use the bondo, AND for those that don't know the difference on bondos to use, it is the 2 part body filler not glazing putty, this is used to fill small pin holes and sanding scratches. I used it on my Epi, and it's being a year and a half and it is perfect. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01039.jpg it was only for the toggle switch, but I filled the entire cavity and I have filled pup cavities with it too, but got no pics of this. PS You can use the tutorial on the main site on how to convert from a trem to hardtail to do the pup block it is the same principle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodBlessTexas Posted October 7, 2005 Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 I wonder if I can get my reply posted before someone tells you to do a search for this, then shove it. Autobody filler is the way to go, but not bondo. I forget the brand name, but the can is yellow and it's a two part product. There is a blue tube of hardener under the clear lid. Autobody filler is almost always polyester resin based, and will shrink noticibly when used to fill large cavities, making the filled area obvious. Even epoxy resin shrinks, as does vinylester resin. Fill it with wood, as per the Trem to Hardtail bridge tutorial from the main site. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 7, 2005 Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 Like I said, block it and bondo it. You can lay down bondo about 1/4" thick, sand it down, and you'll never see noticable shrinking. Of course I'm referring to two part polyester filler( I didn't realize there were any othere kinds). I've done a lot of "shaving" and general body repairs on autos, and I've never, ever had a problem laying a (relatively) thin layer of bondo over the sheet metal I plugged the hole with. One note of caution: keep your hands away from bondo if you lay it on even 1/4" thick over a large area. The chemical reaction is fairly exothermic and has the potential to burn you. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Autobody filler is almost always polyester resin based, and will shrink noticibly when used to fill large cavities, making the filled area obvious. Trem to Hardtail bridge tutorial I don't know if you have used Bondo's 2 part product, but it doesn't shrink like that,and it stays rather "flexible" after curing! Have you ever used a "cheese grater" bondo rasp to level it and touched the shavings are hard, but kinda rubbery feeling. If it wasn't like this, it would be useless for auto body work! As metal don't shrink it will make the finished paint crack! Like I mentioned above the tutorial (thanks for posting the link!) is the best way to go, but for someone that have little woodworking experience, the Bondo way is not a bad idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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