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Truss Route Clear Thru To The Angled Headstock?


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i tried searching around the board for this, but i couldn't find anything to quite give me the info that i needed. maybe i used the wrong key words. anyway...

so i am building my first neck and i routed my hotrod neck channel. i stopped the route just prior to the headstock angle (approx before the nut) anticipating that i will need to drill the adjustment access into the headstock. however, while doing my searches i saw pictures where builders are routing clear past the nut into the headstock. on the surface, i looks like that would work fine. the only thing is there would not be any wood between the nut and the truss rod. it seems easier than drilling the access into the headstock.

so... what are the pros and cons of routing a channel in this fashion?

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I've done it both ways, and I personally like it better to have a bit of wood underneath the center part of the nut. Yeah it is easier to just rout straight through rather than drill an angled hole, but if you have access to a drill press with an adjustable table angle, the drilling is not that hard either.

I think it looks cleaner to have just a hole, especially if you won't be covering the access with a truss rod cover (like on Strat necks). But even if you are, then the truss rod cover doesn't have to come all the way down flush with the nut.

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I rout all the way, but I'm plain lazy...

Have seen it done my way, but covered up with a head weneer, but I think the drill-version is neater. Might try that the next time

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The neck is still structurally sound either way. 1/8" of wood on top of the adjustment nut isn't doing much anyway. On a Hot Rod, I like to pull the brass collar back so it's directly under the nut. I feel it gives you a much smoother adjustment over the first few frets. So in that case drilling isn't really an option, because it extends all the way into the headstock angle. There'd be no wood to leave. On one guitar, however, I used a flamed maple headstock veneer. On that one I just cut out an opening for adjustment, even though the channel was routed all the way through. Then I don't use a truss rod cover. I just cut a nice, sleek oval hole in the overlay. But you can't really simulate that by drilling if you pull the rod back like I do, since there's no wood on top of the rod where the nut slot is.

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