Robot Boy Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 ok, new here, i signed up because ive been searching project guitar and google for a while, with no luck. ive started frankenstriping my ibanez RG, the primer is on, and im going to do the top coat tomorrow (im using acrylic based auto spray). after that, i need to gloss it. what i want to know is what kind of gloss is best, most durable, and also, how is the best way to apply it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ledzendrix1128 Posted November 18, 2005 Report Share Posted November 18, 2005 (edited) I would say BEST is a 2 part Polyurethane... however you need a gun and compressor. Im doing a project now with solvent based paint, and i was told that i can use the stuff you can find at lowes... The Minwax brand polyurethane. So i will most likely be buying this today. Supposedly it wont mess as much with the colors underneathe its coat. It shrinks less when it dries, and dries harder too than nitrocellulose laquer. So I would suggest using a two part poly (if you have a compressor and gun) or the minwax poly (if you dont have a gun, this is an aerosol can). I'm not sure how this will react with an acryllic paint though, so if im giving bad advice someone feel free to chyme in! Your best bet would be to paint a small object with your acryllic paint, then laquer over that to see how it looks finished. - Louis Edited November 18, 2005 by Ledzendrix1128 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 If you want to spray two-part poly, you don't just need a spray gun and compressor. You also need a spray booth, a full-body paint suit, and a powered ventilation mask (not just a standard respirator mask). Those fumes can kill you if not handled correctly. Read the many recent threads on this topic and understand how to do it safely before you do it. The hardware store polys CAN be used -- lots of people here have done that. They just won't give the smae quality results as a two-part poly (namely that they will never get as hard). In general, you need a top coat that isn't going to act as a solvernt for, and thus dissolve, the undercoat (unless of course it is you intention for these layers to melt together ... frequently the case for non-graphic finishes using nitro). Test the finish first on some scrap and find out whether you will have any problems. Keep your initial clear coats pretty light and dry to reduce your chance of problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150rocker Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 You can actually use Krylon in the spray cans.It is a polyurethane enamel.If you're frankenstriping,why not do it the way Eddie did?The only thing you need to remember is it will take 5 coats per color.After each coat wait at least three days before masking for the stripes.when all striping is done app;y 20 coats of clear.The tough part is here,after the clear you should wait atleast 3 months before doing the finish sanding.after which you should wait another three before applying any pressure to the painted body.It's time consuming,but it is cheap and well worth the wait.I just finished a Frankenstrat that way and it is very nice.I'll post pics here eventually,p.s.I'm a newbie here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 (edited) The only thing you need to remember is it will take 5 coats per color.After each coat wait at least three days before masking for the stripes.when all striping is done app;y 20 coats of clear. ← I'm a newbie here ← 5 coats per colour, times red, white and black, is 15 coats, plus 20 coats of clear is 35 coats all up.... What the??? Primer. One coat, rub it back gentle. ADD a second coat if needed. Rub it back gently. Add a third coat if needed (doubt it). Spray black. One coat. rub it back gently. add a second coat if needed (doubt it, but prolly a good idea to do it). rub it back gently. add a third coat if needed (doubt it). Mask up, spray white. Not too heavy, you dont want runs. Maybe do two light coats if you arent confident in getting the coverage from one, without runs. Pull the tape off ASAP, stops the furry edges. Rub back VERY GENTLY, mask up, spray red. Use the same technique as the white. Rub back VERY GENTLY, add clear. repeat but use a block when you sand. repeat. repeat. repeat. leave it a few days to settle and dry, then add another coat. See how it looks, if you need it, add one. More paint = bad, less paint = good. The MOST amount of coats of acrylic ive ever put on a guitar was 8. Edited November 29, 2005 by rhoads56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150rocker Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 I'm talkin bout usuing rattle cans,which take twice as many coats as opposed to a spray gun.I should have mentioned the coats are very light and take up toe coat fivs to cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 i knew what you meant, and it makes no difference my comments stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 If 'coat' is a 'pass' (as in, running spray over surface once), then 35 might be OK. Look at StewMac's waterbased/nitro finishing schedules, f'r instance. Generally, I shoot about 12-15 light coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 If 'coat' is a 'pass' (as in, running spray over surface once), then 35 might be OK. Look at StewMac's waterbased/nitro finishing schedules, f'r instance. Generally, I shoot about 12-15 light coats. ← It all depends Mattia, not everybody does a pass the same way, and I don't even do it the same on different types of paint! Perry, I don't rub the paint between coats! It still turns out great! I tried the 1st time with the black first, but with the duplicolor paint is very hard to build up the white to cover the balck, so Idid the same way that BeAR did his 5150, and it was much easier... In the end I ended using the mirage color (this was the LP I repainted a long time ago).. But for newbies I suggest they go from lighter to darker colors, so they don't get too frustrated covering the black and get into overspray territory. And 5150rocker! If you are a newbie here, and states so in your post! Don't argue with somebody that do this for a living! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 If 'coat' is a 'pass' (as in, running spray over surface once), then 35 might be OK. Look at StewMac's waterbased/nitro finishing schedules, f'r instance. Generally, I shoot about 12-15 light coats. ← It all depends Mattia, not everybody does a pass the same way, and I don't even do it the same on different types of paint! ← Yep, which is why that little word 'might' is in there [] My waterbased coats go on a lot lighter than if I shoot Nitro, which means I also shoot more of them. It all depends on flow rate, techinque, etc. Let's just say that 35 'dust coats' (quick pass, normal to low material flow, surface still looks qasi dry, about 3-4 of these equalling a wet looking coat) isn't necessarily a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150rocker Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 First I'm not argeing with anybody.I am a painter by trade and have over 15 years expierence with what is mostly considered exotic coatings ranging from epoxies to poly esters to many forms of latex and urethanes. I am new however to refinishing guitars and automotive types of finishes.If I gave bad advice I appologize.I have done several guitars in much the same way as I had explained.I know with certain paints less is better.Now with that out of the way I would like to ask rhoads 56 if I might encounter any problems later down the road with this type of finishing?I used Krylon spray cans and each coat was merely a mist coat which did take 5 coats to cover.The last guitar I finished took about a year for the paint to harden enough to set in a stand or against anything else for that matter.I have several projects on the shelf,and though this is mainly a ,for me I would like to do things properly.Thanks for your help and I hope to learn much from you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaxination Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 (edited) And 5150rocker! If you are a newbie here, and states so in your post! Don't argue with somebody that do this for a living! ← whoa! i don't think he was arguing with anyone! Edited November 29, 2005 by vaxination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted November 30, 2005 Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 First I'm not argeing with anybody.I am a painter by trade and have over 15 years expierence with what is mostly considered exotic coatings ranging from epoxies to poly esters to many forms of latex and urethanes. I am new however to refinishing guitars and automotive types of finishes.If I gave bad advice I appologize.I have done several guitars in much the same way as I had explained.I know with certain paints less is better.Now with that out of the way I would like to ask rhoads 56 if I might encounter any problems later down the road with this type of finishing?I used Krylon spray cans and each coat was merely a mist coat which did take 5 coats to cover.The last guitar I finished took about a year for the paint to harden enough to set in a stand or against anything else for that matter.I have several projects on the shelf,and though this is mainly a ,for me I would like to do things properly.Thanks for your help and I hope to learn much from you guys ← Dont mist on the coats. Dont put more clear on than you need. Acrylics take forever to dry, but if it is still too soft after a month, something has gone wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150rocker Posted November 30, 2005 Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 Well its been about a year and things look ok.Not soft and has a good shine.Do you think I might have any problems later down the road?I hear that Gibson and the likes wait at leasr 6 months after the clear is appied before they do the finish sanding.Any ideas on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 30, 2005 Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 Well its been about a year and things look ok.Not soft and has a good shine.Do you think I might have any problems later down the road?I hear that Gibson and the likes wait at leasr 6 months after the clear is appied before they do the finish sanding.Any ideas on that? ← That strikes me as the least likely story I've ever heard. Most modern factories use catalyzed laquers (UV, generally) that can be buffed within a day of spraying. Consider the immense, crazy cost associated with stockpiling/storing 6 months' worth of guitar production from what is one of the largest US manufacturers. Even those instruments that do use Nitro probably don't get more than a month to cure before final buffing, and that's more or less just custom shop models these days, isn't it? Y'know, for the crowd that believes in nitro laquer's mystical mojo tone powers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150rocker Posted November 30, 2005 Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 My thoughts exactly,it was just something I heard and was curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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