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Duplicarver Plan


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Eventually, when I build one, I'm going to have the router mounted to a parrellogram looking assembly that keeps the router perpendicular to the workpiece at all times, as opposed to having the router tilt to adjust its depth.

Thats agreat idea. It could also take up a lot less space I think.Space is a huge issue for me.
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Duplicarvers naturally take up a lot of space,but the feature I spoke of would add nothing to the size of the tool. Also, instead of couterweights, I'd probably use some multiple rate springs to compensate for the weight of the router.

The way i see it in my mind, has the whole unit only about 1 foot bigger that the table in both directions. As far as counter wieght goes what about a levertype action that would place the wieght UNDER the table. I could see the whole thing as 44x36x14 inches. I think I should start drawing.

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If you're drawing it out for yourself, then go ahead, but I wouldn't bother brainstorming if you're trying to draw plans to give away. A duplicarver is something that has a standard design but can and should be tweaked in terms of dimensions and parts(i.e. linear bearings or v rollers depending on what is available to you), making blueprints for it kind of useless. The dimensions 44x36x14 have no significance to anyone but yourself. Dimensions will widely fluctuate depending on how large your router is, how much range you want in any particular axis, and how you want to set up your rollers/bearings. As for a weight under the table, there's really no point. You can achieve a very desirable response from the machine, in terms of ease of use, if you use variable rate springs. Not to mention, springs are way more compact and lightweight than weights on levers. Another advantage of springs over weights is that you can more easily tilt the table on an angle to conserve space without hindering usability.

peace,

russ

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I was really kind of thinking out loud. the actual dimensions do only matter to me. However, Im sure there are other people with limited space as well, and ideas that would reduce the size of the duplicarver would be useful to them. Cant see the harm in discussing it. I was planing, to plan, for myself. If and when I build it I would share pics, if someone wanted my scribbled plans they could have them. Im nowhere near that yet.

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I didn't mean to sound confrontational. I was just trying to make the customizable nature of a duplicarver apparent. The truth is, if you're trying to save some space, counterballancing the router with some springs and tilting the whole table on a 45 degree angle will halve the floorspace it takes up.

peace,

russ

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I can only find one set of them and they want 20 bucks for them.
:D

20 bucks...a bargain. Some guy has put a lot of work into thinking of an idea and following it through, then making it available, photographing, documenting, demonstrating, advising...and that's not worth $20 bucks??? Compared to the alternative...if there is one...of buying a CNC machine and learning to program it...what's $20 bucks, less than the router bit to put into it. Many a time I feel like donating $20 bucks to these kind of guys for just having the idea, following through and making it available to anyone who wants it for a modest price. He has virtually shown enough to build it yourself without the plans for free as it is...

Example...I get such value from this site that I donated, but it wasn't for the plans...sad, sad world...hope you buy them simply out of interest and appreciation.... :D

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Well, got the plans. I dont know if i want to build it like he has it or use linear bearings like ive seen myka and other guys do. Linear bearings are way more expensive, but do look a little bit nicer. Does anyone use this thing for necks yet? Thats my main reason for building one is neck duplicating. What bits you guys use? and what get the best results? Also where do you guys get yoru stylis at? In the plans he says you can make them, but i also say guitarfrenzy say he bought his at terrco but i couldnt find them on the site.

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Well, got the plans. I dont know if i want to build it like he has it or use linear bearings like ive seen myka and other guys do. Linear bearings are way more expensive, but do look a little bit nicer. Does anyone use this thing for necks yet? Thats my main reason for building one is neck duplicating. What bits you guys use? and what get the best results? Also where do you guys get yoru stylis at? In the plans he says you can make them, but i also say guitarfrenzy say he bought his at terrco but i couldnt find them on the site.

Check on MIMFs site they have a set of plans called Sargent duplicator. It's in PDF format and free it's in the archive library.

edited to add: It's in the Instrument plans section, subsection is tool plans and pictures.

Mike

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Well, got the plans. I dont know if i want to build it like he has it or use linear bearings like ive seen myka and other guys do. Linear bearings are way more expensive, but do look a little bit nicer. Does anyone use this thing for necks yet? Thats my main reason for building one is neck duplicating. What bits you guys use? and what get the best results? Also where do you guys get yoru stylis at? In the plans he says you can make them, but i also say guitarfrenzy say he bought his at terrco but i couldnt find them on the site.

Check on MIMFs site they have a set of plans called Sargent duplicator. It's in PDF format and free it's in the archive library.

edited to add: It's in the Instrument plans section, subsection is tool plans and pictures.

Mike

Gemini makes a copy carver and sells stylus with proper dimensions related to whatever bit you are using,check them out on the net,cheers.

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Is "duplicarver" the same as the CopyCarver? I built one of those but I'm afraid I gave my plans to someone else. I built it larger than specified so that I could accomodate carving the top of an 17-inch wide arch top. I wouldn't use it for necks - not really worth the trouble but its nice for duplicating carved top or arch tops.

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