skimasks Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 Im looking at recreating a zakk wylde custom and it says that his neck on the guitar is unfinished and is a "raw oiled maple neck" what type of oil is needed to do this? any info would be great. thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 tung or danish oil would both work, i think "raw.unfinished oiled neck" is an oxymoron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Brown Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 " tung or danish oil would both work, i think "raw.unfinished oiled neck" is an oxymoron" totaly agree, just marketing trying to shove as many words in there ad possible woods such as Wendge and Padouk are sutible to be left raw, that is no finish whatsoever. as for oiled necks tung and danish oil works, but id also like to suggest gunstock oil music man use it on there necks and after playing my friends petrucci model i can tell you first hand its the best way of finishing a neck, even satin finishes build up sweat from my hands, its well worth oiling a neck and doing a litle reular matinance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddler68 Posted May 4, 2006 Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 I second the gunstock oil. I used it (Tru-Oil) to finish my entire first build. The neck is especially nice playing and still preserves the open grained look and feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strato-Master Posted May 30, 2006 Report Share Posted May 30, 2006 I use Howard Feed-N-Wax Wood preserver on my peavey raptor neck. It is a blend of orange oil beeswax and carnauba wax I put like 3 or 4 coats of this stuff on and it works great. I put new coat on about every two weeks to once a month to help keep it shiny smooth and really fast playin neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 30, 2006 Report Share Posted May 30, 2006 I wouldn't be so sure about Padauk or Wenge. Neither is particularly oily. Hoenstly, I wouldn't use 'pure' oil - Tung, whatever - for anything. What you want is an oil varnish, essentially, aka a blend of polymerized oils and various other stuff. Danish oil is one example, TruOil the example par execellence. I'd go with TruOil. I like to finish it off with a coat of wax (Briwax here, carnuba and bees, no preservatives, NO SILICONE). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCross Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 I wouldn't be so sure about Padauk or Wenge. Neither is particularly oily. Hoenstly, I wouldn't use 'pure' oil - Tung, whatever - for anything. What you want is an oil varnish, essentially, aka a blend of polymerized oils and various other stuff. Danish oil is one example, TruOil the example par execellence. I'd go with TruOil. I like to finish it off with a coat of wax (Briwax here, carnuba and bees, no preservatives, NO SILICONE). where to get TruOil in Europe(what's its name here?)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Try gunstock places. I know there's one place in the UK (don't have the address), at least, that carries TruOil. Rustin's Danish Oil, or Liberon's Finishing Oil (should be freely available in Europe) will do just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Danish oil can be found at any wilkinsons store in the uk right near the briwax which is also useful for natural finished necks. I havnt found Truoil anywhere. I reckon you might get away without finishing wenge for about 6 months, then i reckon it would dry out and become quite rough, especially if you have particlarly bad acidic sweat. If you dont finish paduak you will probably end up with orange hands and everyone will think you have been using cheap fake tan, and it will dry out even quicker than the wenge. I oil and wax alot of my necks and recommend that they be re-oiled every 6 months for the first few years. after that a patina should build up so it wont need doing as often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 http://www.thegunshop.co.uk/casey.htm they sell tru-oil. I was going to start a new thread for this question but it's only a quick one and it seems relevant so I'll post it here; -Is tru oil significantly better than Danish oil? Because Danish is really easy for me to get hold of as they sell it at the local DIY shop, but I can only find tru-oil online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 Thanks Ben, i gave up searching ages ago!! I am doing a couple of maple necks soon that i might use truoil on now you have found me a supplier. As far as i have been able to tell, you can get a much higher gloss from truoil. I tend to use the danish oil as the base for an oil and wax finish and as fretboard treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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