Some Beginner Questions

[BHostyle]

I am getting ready to build my first guitar and I have a few questions that I couldn't find answered on the forums. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have played a Jackson Rhoads Pro for 13 years now. I love the feel and the tone that I get from the guitar. I would like to maintain that with my first handmade guitar as well. So that got me looking at the actual specs and I am confused on a few things that I was hoping to get some help with.

First, my guitar is Alder with a Flame Maple Top. I understand that both are woods, of course. But, I am confused with the Flame Maple Top portion. I don't understand what exactly that is. Is it referring to the top of the body or is it referring to the neck? How thick would it be? Does it affect the tone at all or is it just for look? My guitar is going to be a solid color so I don't need anything fancy.

Second, I have a question about the Neck Dimensions and Width at Nut. I don't quite understand what they mean. I guess I should let you knot that I want to make a 7-string. I am not sure if any of these values are affected. So on my Rhoads the Neck Dimensions are .790" at the 3rd fret and .850" at the 12th Fret with the width at nut being 1-11/16". A Dinky 7 string is .735" at the 3rd fret and .810" at the 12th fret with a width at nut of 1-7/8". To compare to a 6 string dinky which is .750" at the 3rd fret and .810" at the 12th fret with a width at nut of 1-11/16". Could someone please explain exactly what these measurements are as well as how I would have to modify the measurements of my current Rhoads to be a 7-string. I just want to get a very similar feel as I have now.

I think that is it. Thank you in advance for any light you can shed on these two questions.

[SwedishLuthier]

Maple tops is done in one of two different ways. If the top is flat it is mostly a thin veneer on top of the body wood. If so you don’t have to worry about the impact on the sound. Sometimes these tops are thicker, up to ¼” and then it will affect the tone some. Some, not much. On the other hand you have the typical Les Paul carved maple top that can be up to ¾” thick or even thicker on some guitars. These were added by Mr Les Paul to increase the treble response when he constructed the solid guitar that bears his name. So a thick maple top will contribute to the sound. Having said that I would suspect that you can just drop the maple top (pun intended, drop top, geddit…sorry) and go for a solid alder body

Regarding getting the same feel from a 7-string version of your bellowed 6-stringer: Forget it. I have to be that frank to you. You will have to make a lot of compromises on this. First you have to decide if you would like to rather keep the neck/fretboard width from your Rhoads and squeeze in one more string, or keep the string to string distance and make the neck/fretboard wider. None of these necks will have the same feel. When you have thought that over it is time to think about measurements.

Good luck

[BHostyle]

Maple tops is done in one of two different ways. If the top is flat it is mostly a thin veneer on top of the body wood. If so you don’t have to worry about the impact on the sound. Sometimes these tops are thicker, up to ¼” and then it will affect the tone some. Some, not much. On the other hand you have the typical Les Paul carved maple top that can be up to ¾” thick or even thicker on some guitars. These were added by Mr Les Paul to increase the treble response when he constructed the solid guitar that bears his name. So a thick maple top will contribute to the sound. Having said that I would suspect that you can just drop the maple top (pun intended, drop top, geddit…sorry) and go for a solid alder body

Regarding getting the same feel from a 7-string version of your bellowed 6-stringer: Forget it. I have to be that frank to you. You will have to make a lot of compromises on this. First you have to decide if you would like to rather keep the neck/fretboard width from your Rhoads and squeeze in one more string, or keep the string to string distance and make the neck/fretboard wider. None of these necks will have the same feel. When you have thought that over it is time to think about measurements.

Good luck

After reading what you said, I agree the maple top shouldn't make a difference. And if, after the fact, I think it did then I can just build another one with it. So thank you for shedding some light on that for me.

As for the feel. I have played seven string guitars before and I understand that the overall feel itself will be different. I think I might have kind of mispoke earlier on that point. What I want to do is keep the same neck thickness as I have on my 6-sting. Which I don't think should be a problem. My Rhoads has kind of an in between neck. It isn't really thin and it isn't real fat. I guess for me it is just right. hehe

I want to try and maintain the string distance that I currently have on the 6-string Rhoads. I've played it for so long I just have it memorized. So I know that that will make the neck wider. So I guess I need to get the measuremnts down. Could someone shed some light on the measurements in my second question from above. Thanks SL.

[fryovanni]

Maple tops is done in one of two different ways. If the top is flat it is mostly a thin veneer on top of the body wood. If so you don’t have to worry about the impact on the sound. Sometimes these tops are thicker, up to ¼” and then it will affect the tone some. Some, not much. On the other hand you have the typical Les Paul carved maple top that can be up to ¾” thick or even thicker on some guitars. These were added by Mr Les Paul to increase the treble response when he constructed the solid guitar that bears his name. So a thick maple top will contribute to the sound. Having said that I would suspect that you can just drop the maple top (pun intended, drop top, geddit…sorry) and go for a solid alder body

Regarding getting the same feel from a 7-string version of your bellowed 6-stringer: Forget it. I have to be that frank to you. You will have to make a lot of compromises on this. First you have to decide if you would like to rather keep the neck/fretboard width from your Rhoads and squeeze in one more string, or keep the string to string distance and make the neck/fretboard wider. None of these necks will have the same feel. When you have thought that over it is time to think about measurements.

Good luck

After reading what you said, I agree the maple top shouldn't make a difference. And if, after the fact, I think it did then I can just build another one with it. So thank you for shedding some light on that for me.

As for the feel. I have played seven string guitars before and I understand that the overall feel itself will be different. I think I might have kind of mispoke earlier on that point. What I want to do is keep the same neck thickness as I have on my 6-sting. Which I don't think should be a problem. My Rhoads has kind of an in between neck. It isn't really thin and it isn't real fat. I guess for me it is just right. hehe

I want to try and maintain the string distance that I currently have on the 6-string Rhoads. I've played it for so long I just have it memorized. So I know that that will make the neck wider. So I guess I need to get the measuremnts down. Could someone shed some light on the measurements in my second question from above. Thanks SL.

With regards two your second question. Width at the nut should be pretty self explanitaory. As for the thickness of the neck @3 & 12. That is how thick the neck (fretboard and neck wood) at those positions. You should keep in mind that this does not indicate the shape of the back just the max. thickness. You would want to think about truss rod/'s location and depth and how much material you will have left. You want to leave at least 1/8" of material behind the truss rod. Shaping the back of a neck is really a personal choice (well short of min. thickness behind truss rods). I generally shape the back of my necks to about .9 @12 and .85 @3 then I use scrapers to get it down to the point it feels good. Be sure to watch the thickness with calipers as you shape. You really have to be careful to not go too deep and cut into the truss rod chennel.

You should really draw your neck full size using correct dimensions to get a clear picture of what needs to happen.

Hope that helps,

Rich

[BHostyle]

I understand that Width at Nut seems pretty cut and dry. But, so do the other things I asked about now that they have been explained. So I guess let me say what I think it is and someone can correct me.

I believe that width at nut is a similar measurement to the width at 3rd and 12th fret. Only width at nut is where the neck meets the body. Am I right on that?

And yes, I agree with you about drawing the neck full size. I am currently working on drawing out everything with full correct measurments so that I know I have that portion planned out correctly. I will be calling on you guys to help verify for me since this is my first go at this. Time is not an issue. This will take as long as it needs to take. I am in no rush, I'm just a perfectionist. Thanks for all the responses so far.

[Mattia]

I understand that Width at Nut seems pretty cut and dry. But, so do the other things I asked about now that they have been explained. So I guess let me say what I think it is and someone can correct me.

I believe that width at nut is a similar measurement to the width at 3rd and 12th fret. Only width at nut is where the neck meets the body. Am I right on that?

And yes, I agree with you about drawing the neck full size. I am currently working on drawing out everything with full correct measurments so that I know I have that portion planned out correctly. I will be calling on you guys to help verify for me since this is my first go at this. Time is not an issue. This will take as long as it needs to take. I am in no rush, I'm just a perfectionist. Thanks for all the responses so far.

Uh...what?

The nut is the bit of bone/plastic/graphite at the end of your fingerboard, by the headstock. The width there varies between 42 and 45mm, give or take (up to 1.75" wide). The width of the rest of the fingerboard is defined by the spacing of the strings at the bridge. Draw it out full size, mark the width of the nut, move the outer strings in about 3mm from the edge, draw the lines for the outer two string paths (from nut to bridge, proper spacing), and then add lines 3mm outside that where the fingerboard ends. Sounds all complicated, but it's dead simple. Overall, width of the fingerboard at 12th fret is usually about the same as the string spacing at the bridge. Width where the neck meets the body is entirely irellevant, and dependant on where the neck joins up.

Draw everything up in full. Buy Melvyn Hiscock's 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar' which will answer all of these questions in some detail. Seriously.

If you're talking about depth (how fat is the neck, front to back), the difference is smaller, and taste-related. between 19mm and 21mm at the nut (first fret), maybe a bit thicker, say 22-24mm at the bit before the heel.

[BHostyle]

I understand that Width at Nut seems pretty cut and dry. But, so do the other things I asked about now that they have been explained. So I guess let me say what I think it is and someone can correct me.

I believe that width at nut is a similar measurement to the width at 3rd and 12th fret. Only width at nut is where the neck meets the body. Am I right on that?

And yes, I agree with you about drawing the neck full size. I am currently working on drawing out everything with full correct measurments so that I know I have that portion planned out correctly. I will be calling on you guys to help verify for me since this is my first go at this. Time is not an issue. This will take as long as it needs to take. I am in no rush, I'm just a perfectionist. Thanks for all the responses so far.

Uh...what?

The nut is the bit of bone/plastic/graphite at the end of your fingerboard, by the headstock. The width there varies between 42 and 45mm, give or take (up to 1.75" wide). The width of the rest of the fingerboard is defined by the spacing of the strings at the bridge. Draw it out full size, mark the width of the nut, move the outer strings in about 3mm from the edge, draw the lines for the outer two string paths (from nut to bridge, proper spacing), and then add lines 3mm outside that where the fingerboard ends. Sounds all complicated, but it's dead simple. Overall, width of the fingerboard at 12th fret is usually about the same as the string spacing at the bridge. Width where the neck meets the body is entirely irellevant, and dependant on where the neck joins up.

Draw everything up in full. Buy Melvyn Hiscock's 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar' which will answer all of these questions in some detail. Seriously.

If you're talking about depth (how fat is the neck, front to back), the difference is smaller, and taste-related. between 19mm and 21mm at the nut (first fret), maybe a bit thicker, say 22-24mm at the bit before the heel.

Perfect, it definately makes sense now. I can't say I don't feel like an idiot though. Thanks for all the help.

[t1r12003]

Might I also refer you to the book "How to Make an Electric Guitar" by Melvin Hissock. That book combined with the great info here on the forum really helped me out. The book will tell you all the basic info you need to know, nut width, scale length, etc.

[spazzyone]

does'nt the fact his jackson has a compound radius board play into the feel factor?