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Got me one of these today (Drak, a little trumpet blast please :D ).

Lowe's (well, the one here anyway) has a gift card rebate deal on tools going on, so I got it for $25 off, in a roundabout sort of way. :D

And all day I kept hearing my 7th grade shop teacher's words of warning, "Band saws are used to cut meat and bones!"

Mike

Edited by mikhailgtrski
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sweet! Congrats.

i just bought the 9 inch model yesterday. got it all put together and it was running fine on my kitchen counter. :D

is there any difference in the ShopMaster version as compared to the older non-Shopmaster branding? or is just an added name?

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Post your impressions after you've used it a little. I am very interested in this little band saw but was scared away from it by other guitar builders. I think there is a problem of tool snobbery on some of these guitar sites, but you just can never tell. :D

Someday I will have a large stationary band saw that will re-saw 8-1/2" planks to make tops and backs. Until then, it seemed to me that having a small table top band saw would be great for cutting the rought outline of guitars into MDF for molds, fabbing up pieces for jigs, cutting necks and peg heads, cutting binding and rossette material, etc. Let us know what you end up using it for and how you like it.

Also, to others who have bought the little Delta, what do you use it for and how do you like it?

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Post your impressions after you've used it a little. I am very interested in this little band saw but was scared away from it by other guitar builders.

The little 9" or the 10" freestanding model?

I haven't fired it off yet, but it appears to be very solidly built - much heftier than a 10" Ryobi. The frame is heavy cast iron, and the wheels are cast (aluminum?) and operate very smoothly. I bought this one on Delta's reputation, and the fact that it has a full 7" depth of cut vs. 4" or less for most competitive models. Not bad for $175 (after rebate). :D

I'll let you know how it performs.

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Post your impressions after you've used it a little. I am very interested in this little band saw but was scared away from it by other guitar builders. I think there is a problem of tool snobbery on some of these guitar sites, but you just can never tell. :D

Someday I will have a large stationary band saw that will re-saw 8-1/2" planks to make tops and backs. Until then, it seemed to me that having a small table top band saw would be great for cutting the rought outline of guitars into MDF for molds, fabbing up pieces for jigs, cutting necks and peg heads, cutting binding and rossette material, etc. Let us know what you end up using it for and how you like it.

Also, to others who have bought the little Delta, what do you use it for and how do you like it?

I don't think it is all tool snobbery (although I am sure that may happen, this is a group of tool nuts). There are some features that are pretty valuable to you as a builder. You mention re-saw capacity as a goal of yours (and a good one at that). A 14" w/ riser gets you there. Horsepower is improtant if you are going to re-saw wide boards. Features that allow you to set your saw up to make accurate cuts (good guides) are valuable. Good blades make a huge difference not only can they improve your cuts and potentially remove less material (finer kerfs), but they can make better use of the horsepower you have available. Blade clearance can be very important when you are trying to cut a body out. Little features like dust collection attachments, wheel brushes, quick release, rack and pinion table adjustments and so forth are all really nice when you use the machine a lot (and improve performance). It is not allways about brand. I think a lot of it comes from what we know makes the machine more useful.

On this model you have a very impressive guide clearance. There will be a lot of tasks it will be able to handle. It seems to me it is a lot of capacity for the $$$.

P.S. I run a 14" 3/4 HP (have yet to need more power, I can drop 2HP whenever I feel the need). It was upgraded with- Riser block kit and Carter Bearings. I use Woodslicer and Timberwolf blades mainly with a couple smaller blades (can't remember brand-maybe Woodcraft) on occasion. I have run a quite a bit of material through the saw (plenty of wide re-sawing). A lot of the cuts I make are for acoustic back/sides/tops on some very expensive material where straight, accurate low loss cuts are critical. The saw handles the tasks very well (some extra features would be nice to have though). The shocker ( and I bet I will get hammered for this ): It is a Harbor Freight 14" ($259 base with a couple hundred in upgrades). I am definately not a tool snob- It is all about function with me.

Peace,Rich

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Here is a quick first impression of the 9 " model. its the SM400 (i Think) from Delta.

It was very easy to set up. i broke one of the guide blocks while setting it up, but thats one of the parts that i have read numerous times about needing upgrading. i rough cut two necks the other day with it. luckily, i wasnt trying to do precision work with it because the supplied blade was all over the place. but my intention was to rough out the excess wood, my Robo Sanders will do the detail work.

The other major upgrade that is always commented on is the supplied blade. maybe that had something to do with the bad blade wander. i have two new blades on order right now, so we'll see if those make a difference.

personally, i would have no problems dropping hundreds on a quality tool but i live in an apartment and have no shop other than my balcony so the little Delta was just about my only option. as long as it does what i require (rough cutting) then i will be happy with it.

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I'll add to the discussion..... One must consider, which is the right tool for the job? The 9in bandsaw has been the topic of much debate here. This small Delta has definate limitations.....It was never intended to cut out guitar bodies.....It is underpowered for the heavier work of guitar making and the small capacity makes even cutting out body templates with MDF difficult. Before anyone tells me that luthier-X has been using a 9in bandsaw for years and gets great results, remember that you can dig a ditch with a spoon or you can dig the same ditch with a back hoe......ultimately, you'll end up with the same result.

For the record.....I own a 9in Delta and I use it only for jewelry and other fine work. Also in my shop is a 36in Powermatic bandsaw with a 20in resaw capacity.......also the trusty 14in Delta w/riserblock. Each of these bandsaws has a specific purpose. And, they all get their fair share of use.

BTW.....The Rigid bandsaw for @$365 is an excellent value.

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I'll add to the discussion..... One must consider, which is the right tool for the job? The 9in bandsaw has been the topic of much debate here. This small Delta has definate limitations.....It was never intended to cut out guitar bodies.....It is underpowered for the heavier work of guitar making and the small capacity makes even cutting out body templates with MDF difficult. Before anyone tells me that luthier-X has been using a 9in bandsaw for years and gets great results, remember that you can dig a ditch with a spoon or you can dig the same ditch with a back hoe......ultimately, you'll end up with the same result.

For the record.....I own a 9in Delta and I use it only for jewelry and other fine work. Also in my shop is a 36in Powermatic bandsaw with a 20in resaw capacity.......also the trusty 14in Delta w/riserblock. Each of these bandsaws has a specific purpose. And, they all get their fair share of use.

BTW.....The Rigid bandsaw for @$365 is an excellent value.

Ok, I agree that the right tool for the job is spot on the money, and digging a ditch with a spoon would seem pretty silly. Most of us wouldn't have a back hoe at our disposal (which would make fast work of the task), but we can get a good shovel. I think that is what we are talking about. For the most part guys are not doing much production, and a slower tool is fine. As long as the tool is capable of doing the job well. If you are going to re-saw 10,o00 bd. ft. of 8" Maple. You best use a large industrial bandsaw with a good feed system. If you are going to re-saw (25) Maple drop tops you can take a little more time and use your 14". It is capable of producing great results.

I honestly can't imagine why a 9" or 10" bandsaw would not be capable of cutting 2" body stock (I should say if the saw is set up correctly and the blade is in reasonably good shape- of coarse right blade for the job). You can even cut 2" body stock with a scroll saw (but again takes a bit longer). When I am re-sawing about the only reason my machine would start to bog down is if the blade was not running straight and true (more power could overcome the blade wander, but I need straight cuts). Depending on density and width of re-saws I have to adjust my feed rate (which could be increased with more speed and power to the blade), but it is really quick enough for how often I do that.

The most important thing you can do to get the most out of any bandsaw. Is to learn how to set it up correctly to make proper clean cuts. Set up includes using the right blade for the job :D .

Peace,Rich

P.S. I would love to have a 36" Powermatic (backhoe would be awsome too).

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Russ,

What riser block did you get that fit the Harbor Freight band saw?

They make a riser kit you can order. However I used a Jet block. The guide arm is not the same as a Jet (guides will have a low set point of about 3"- and that is with Carters) though so you would be better off ordering the correct kit.

Peace,Rich

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Also keep in mind what the engineering specs were. The 9in saw was meant for very light duty, so, the bearings may not hold up in a heavy use situation. Those little bearings are expensive too! My saw was in my parents workshop in Tampa....By the time it got to Pennsylvania, the salt air corroded the bearings. Replacing the bearings and one other small part was almost what the bandsaw cost new!

BTW....YEAH! I'm one of those lucky SOB's that owns a Case 580 backhoe, too!

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:D

"BTW....YEAH! I'm one of those lucky SOB's that owns a Case 580 backhoe, too!"

Great for you man! Why are you worried about bandsaw bearings? I bet repairs on the 580 could get pretty spooky. My step father had an excavation company for a while. I remember my mom talking about high maint. cost on the equipment.

Peace,Rich

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fryovanni..........I just want to give the average guy the heads up on replacement of these bearings. If you buy the less expensive 9in bandsaw and smoke the bearings on it, then pony up the $70+ for a new set....you are now getting close to price of a new 14in Rigid....at least close enough to think that maybe another $150 would have saved you money in the long run.

I've had my back hoe for 10 years and until now, general maintenance costs have been minimal. However, I am in the middle of an engine rebuild...coolant began leaking at an alarming rate between the cylinder sleeves and block......The engine heated up very quickly......I thought that I got it shut down in time.......But, the coolant got into the main bearing and fried it!...So far, parts have lightened my wallet to the tune if $1750!!!!!!! YIKES!!!!!

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fryovanni..........I just want to give the average guy the heads up on replacement of these bearings. If you buy the less expensive 9in bandsaw and smoke the bearings on it, then pony up the $70+ for a new set....you are now getting close to price of a new 14in Rigid....at least close enough to think that maybe another $150 would have saved you money in the long run.

I've had my back hoe for 10 years and until now, general maintenance costs have been minimal. However, I am in the middle of an engine rebuild...coolant began leaking at an alarming rate between the cylinder sleeves and block......The engine heated up very quickly......I thought that I got it shut down in time.......But, the coolant got into the main bearing and fried it!...So far, parts have lightened my wallet to the tune if $1750!!!!!!! YIKES!!!!!

tdog, I was just making a joke about the costs of repairing a bandsaw would be nothing next to heavy equipment you own there big guy. :D

I agree 100% that the cost of fixing a small bandsaw that was over worked would be higher than it is worth. Actually when you think about the cost of decent blades, a few more dollars for a larger bandsaw isn't the much in the grand scheme of things. I believe the 14" saw is best as a baseline (my opinion). The fact that some guys don't have room or budget or whatever. The 9's and 10's become there option. I have not researched them enough to know if they are engineered to handle 2" hardwood. If it is not designed to handle that task the I would say they are useless. I find it hard to imagine 2" hardwood is beyond there capacity (but what do I know? :D .. not much about smaller bandsaws).

Peace,Rich

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though not exactly ultra dense wood, i used my 9" on a 1.75" thick body blank of swamp ash with no problem at all.

which bearings are you guys talking about? the guide bearings or the wheel bearings? either way at $70 bucks, i would just buy a new 9" and keep the old one for spare parts. or tear it apart and make some kind of super powered Lego truck with the motor. :D

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Mike, have you gotten around to using it yet? I've been keeping my eye on a few bandsaws like that (a Rigid one at home depot, 12" I believe, the model you bought and a few others) since i'm in the market for one now that i'm moving shops. Looks good, and like you said it's built well so i'm sure it'll perform good, any thoughts man? :D

Chris

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I would love to have some of the band saws you guys are talking about, and I will. Right now, my problem is space since I use my garage as a shop. I still park two cars in there every night so everything has to be portable, movable or small. That's why I bought the Delta 9" bandsaw. After I cut my first guitar body out with a jig saw and the neck with a Japanese style hand saw, I wanted something else. Its usable but limited of course. I change the blades often to help avoid drift. I'm aware of the bearing cost so I try to keep it clean.

I have cut 2" thick Les Paul style bodies with it, and cut necks with it including cutting two set necks from single 3 1/2" square blocks of mahogany or mahogany / maple laminates. Done that a number of times. Example pic below. That's the little Delta in the background with the dust port connected to my shop vac.

I'll use it until it dies and then decide what to get next.

neckblanks.jpg

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OK, so I started adjusting the guides, bearings, etc. but I couldn't get the blade to track properly.

Problem is, the wheels were out of alignment with each other. So I disassembled the thing and found that the alignment pins at the joint where the top and bottom of the frame bolt together were slightly off. I ended up taking out one pin, correcting the joint alignment, and bolting it back together. The blade tracks properly now.

Needless to say, I'm not impressed with Delta's little Q.C. lapse - two hours wasted troubleshooting. :D

Now I have to reassemble and readjust everything, then fire it off to see how it performs...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I honestly can't imagine why a 9" or 10" bandsaw would not be capable of cutting 2" body stock (I should say if the saw is set up correctly and the blade is in reasonably good shape- of coarse right blade for the job). You can even cut 2" body stock with a scroll saw (but again takes a bit longer). When I am re-sawing about the only reason my machine would start to bog down is if the blade was not running straight and true (more power could overcome the blade wander, but I need straight cuts). Depending on density and width of re-saws I have to adjust my feed rate (which could be increased with more speed and power to the blade), but it is really quick enough for how often I do that.

The most important thing you can do to get the most out of any bandsaw. Is to learn how to set it up correctly to make proper clean cuts. Set up includes using the right blade for the job :D .

Peace,Rich

P.S. I would love to have a 36" Powermatic (backhoe would be awsome too).

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