Pyramid Fretwire.

[Cracked]

Anyone use this yet? To me it would seem easier to level and have less of a flat surface, allowing better intonation no?

[1576]

In theory it would only be better than rounded wire for intonation if left as a sharp point. In practise, you'd level the frets, then probably tart up the tops with the same file that you'd crown normal wire with. Unless, of course you used a fine cut triangular file to shape the wire to a point.

That would result, I imagine, in pretty uncomfortable fret ends, and reduced string life.

[Cracked]

In theory it would only be better than rounded wire for intonation if left as a sharp point. In practise, you'd level the frets, then probably tart up the tops with the same file that you'd crown normal wire with. Unless, of course you used a fine cut triangular file to shape the wire to a point.

That would result, I imagine, in pretty uncomfortable fret ends, and reduced string life.

I didn't think that far you're right, unluss I used a 3 corner file instead of a fretfile, which I don't think I'm ready for just yet!

[soapbarstrat]

Which " Pyramid" wire are you talking about ? There's the really pointy stuff by Petillo:

http://www.petilloguitars.com/frets.php

And then there's a couple of more mild types like the Japanese stuff that Stew-Mac has, and also pretty much the same profile shape as that made by a German fret-wire company, which I have (but haven't even used any of the Pyramid size yet).

[frank falbo]

The Warmoth/Stew Mac/Tom Anderson triangular wire is among my favorite. The crowning file is somewhat irrelevant, because you are still putting a crown onto a surface that has a quick slant. Plus a good refret should mean that you're levelling so little, that crowning is hardly necessary.

It plays like it's narrow, but wears and sounds more like jumbos. I can also make the fret ends very comfortable with no more effort than regular frets. I haven't tried the Petillo stuff, but I would venture to say I wouldn't like it. Too much of a pyramid, and you might as well be playing on a knife edge. He claims a more perfect intonation, but my guess is that you're more likely to pull sharp in that scenario if you use any force, like with Dunlop 6105.

[Daniel Sorbera]

That petillo page is full of crap. Did you see the "conventional fret" pic? the frets have flat tops. Duh of course there are problems with it...

and the "Fret Repositioning". I have -never- come across a factory made guitar that had incorrectly placed frets. They use super accurate computer controlled saws.

"Micro Polishing"? You've got to be kidding me. I sand all my frets up to 8000 and buff with my dremel. They are high gloss little beauties you need sunglasses around.

I can't even begin to imagine how uncomfterable those triangle frets are. Plus wouldn't something that pointy wear down very quickly?

the only thing in there that was worth while was that stainless-steel alloy frets don't wear out as easy. We all already knew that...

[AlGeeEater]

I wouldn't call the page crap. If you read what he wrote, he clearly defines the 'conventional' picture.

"A lot of intonation problems come not only from the flattened-down tops of a conventional fret, but also from inaccurate division of the fingerboard scale."

The main thing he's got going for him is he wants to refret guitars with worn down 'conventional' frets. His marketing strategy is to say hey, you're frets are worn down and are poorly intonated when played. If you let me refret with this triangle system not ony will your guitar play intonated but it puts money in my pockets. Although depending on how hard you push the string into the fretboard can cause problems with playing the correct notes. You could bend a note a full note up from where it's supposed to be by pressing down hard enough.

I think he burnishes his frets. Suppositly doing this makes the frets harder and shinier (don't take this as fact, Dan Erlewine said this in his fretting video). I sand my frets up to 12,000 and rub them with Extreme Metal polish, big deal.

I don't support this guy, and I don't really like the whole idea of pointy frets, but before you call something crap, look at what he's done for the progress of fretted instruments compared to what you have done. Atleast he's out there experimenting trying something to improve performance and such.

Also don't take this as a flame, busting you, or being mean Godin, i'm just saying.

Peace,

Chris

[Rob GILLEY]

hi guys I'm new to the forum my names rob, this is my first post here.

I got some pyramid fret wire from a friend who owns a guitar shop he did a custom repair for a neck thru charvel the owners girlfriend threw his guitar out of their 4 story apartment window during a fight, and it snapped the neck when it landed on a parking block. but the owner wanted pyramid frets. my friend was not going to use the fret wire left over so he gave it to me, I put it on my tokai tele copy which was in bad need of refreting. I love em. they do help with the intonation seeing I put a 3 saddle bridge on it, it took some getting used to when sliding down to do a lead I used to slide down with my fingers slightly pressing down on the finger board muting with my right hand to rid any ambient noise, I had to learn to slide down with my hand being stabilized by pressing against the back of the neck while sliding down. they are awesome for bends, and tapping, it puts me in the mind of a shallow scallop. the frets don't hurt but I could see how they would be annoying if you use the same technique I used to when doing a lead. bottom line great for metal or any music where your doing many solos, not so good if your a rhythm guitarist. most of that guys site is hype but pyramid frets do have their advantages for certain styles especially if you play metal and tap a lot but don't like the looks of a scalloped fret board.

thanx for your time and I look forward to communicating with you gentlemen in the future.