Bleach?

[al heeley]

IS there a compound that can be rubbed into stained wood in order to knock the colour out of the stain? Sort of like a bleach. You know when a piece has been stained deep and sanding back you just get more creeping back up again. I'm sure I came across somewhere something, maybe .88 ammonia, that neutralised the stain.

[thirdstone]

IS there a compound that can be rubbed into stained wood in order to knock the colour out of the stain? Sort of like a bleach. You know when a piece has been stained deep and sanding back you just get more creeping back up again. I'm sure I came across somewhere something, maybe .88 ammonia, that neutralised the stain.

Rustins wood bleach will bleach the wood but not the stain. You will have to sand it out. You could try rubbing thinners into it but I don't think it will get it completely out.

[al heeley]

This is a close-up of the horn, the dark flecks are the residue of the dark oak stain originally applied.

I guess I'll have to keep sanding with white spirit and see if I can get it to come up any cleaner.

[Drak]

Liquid (Pool) Chlorine (13-15% Sodium Hypochlorite, regular Clorox is 5% just for reference sake) will bleach out dyes and stains.

How effectively? Don't know, it's a case-by-case basis. Sometimes great, sometimes suck, you don't know from one piece of wood to another, but that is the proper product to use.

Sometimes you're just screwed and need a good W.O.D. around to 'take out the trash', hard as that may be to admit sometimes.

I've had laminates that were 1/4" thick that that happened to on me, I planed the entire top off to put another laminate on it, and found the dye had penetrated 100% all the way to the bottom of the laminate (capillary action I guess). Not always, but it's happened.

[Southpa]

Try using some 000 steel wool. I found it does a good job of digging material out of grain pores. I remember someone mentioning that steel wool fibres stick in the grain, but I have never encountered that unless the wool is partially oxidized. Use "fresh" steel wool. You might not get rid of all of it but it should help.

[dayvo]

Liquid (Pool) Chlorine (13-15% Sodium Hypochlorite, regular Clorox is 5% just for reference sake) will bleach out dyes and stains.

How effectively? Don't know, it's a case-by-case basis. Sometimes great, sometimes suck, you don't know from one piece of wood to another, but that is the proper product to use.

Sometimes you're just screwed and need a good W.O.D. around to 'take out the trash', hard as that may be to admit sometimes.

I've had laminates that were 1/4" thick that that happened to on me, I planed the entire top off to put another laminate on it, and found the dye had penetrated 100% all the way to the bottom of the laminate (capillary action I guess). Not always, but it's happened.

Hey Drak

Does the chlorine need to be nutralised with water (or anything else, if so, how) prior to staining and more importantly prior to applying spray lacquers

dayvo

[Nitefly SA]

If you need a stronger concentration for it to work I doubt you need to then dilute the stonger concentration.

[dayvo]

If you need a stronger concentration for it to work I doubt you need to then dilute the stonger concentration.

What I meant was, once the timber is bleached and dried does the chlorine then need to be washed out of the timber (with water or something else?) in order to stain and apply lacquer, or can you stain and lacquer straight over the top of the dried chlorine?

dayvo

[Sand Paper]

We use regular Clorox at work. It does okay but sometimes requires multiple applications. You can also try some Oxalic Acid which you use the same as bleach. When the acid dries it leaves crystals so you'll want to wash the guitar off. Stripper usualy takes stuff like that out as well.

[spazzyone]

has anyone ever tried trisodium phosphate aka TSP?

Edited October 12, 2006 by spazzyone