Jump to content



Recommended Posts

I think that's the general consensus on most "semi-natural" finishes such as oils. It's more like conditioning as opposed to finishing I guess. I've just stocked up on a load of Tru-oil for finishing guitars - I might stick to oils in general for a while!

(till I have bad chipout from the router when I'll go solid)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two ways to look at finish and its effect on vibration. One thinner film less dampening. Two the better the film barrier the slower the tranfer of moisture. The dryer the wood the better it will transmit energy. Oils and resins have the same dampening effect (why Rosewoods tend to sound warmer even being dense and having a high MOE). The woods modulous of elasticity and density are your other variables and are fixed (short of damage altering the woods properties). Yadda yadda.... If you have a smoother surface to work with you will be able to get a better film coating(penetrating finishes are going to act as a dampner-oil/resins slow internal transmition). If you use a finish that has a good ability to slow moisture transfer you should have more cosistent vibration (less effected by quick, short duration changes in humidity- nothing will stop the transfer of moisture completely). In terms of slowing transfer oils tend to be the weakest, then your latex finishes, then Nitro Laquer, Shellac, Urethane's, PolyUrethane's and Dipped Parrafin Wax(not that you would dip your guitar :D ). All of these finishes are going to coat better with the pores filled (allowing for a thinner, even, and more durable coat).

So all that said. Most acoustic guitars only have a coating on the outside of the body(leaving the wood exposed on one side to amient humidity). So this is all probably small trivial stuff (well short of using wet wood). So to answer the question. "Will not using filler affect the tone of the guitar...?" - Not much, but it will help you achive a better film coating (whichever you choose).


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oil penetrates the wood, so it will definitely impart some damping properties. That said, my understanding about the backs of typical acoustics (not archtops...) is that they basically reflect the energy imparted to the box by the vibrating soundboard.

So I'd venture to guess that if only the back & sides are walnut, then Tru Oil would work fine if you don't mind the pores (although enough coats would fill 'em just fine). I would definitely NOT use it for the top (spruce, cedar), thin nitro or poly would be required there.

I used Tru Oil on my 5-string (solidbody) bass built almost 2 years ago, it's got a walnut core and the Tru Oil filled the grain just fine. I've waxed it twice since then, and the finish is holding up well. 40 coats, mind you....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...