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My Winter Tele Build 2006


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One thing I forgot to mention,, I really want to do a "belly cut" on this,, the guy who did the body seemed to think I would be able to do it ,,, just needed to be sure to have it clamped down very securely and he said I needed to use a big wood rasp or file instead of a belt sander like I was thinking,,,, what do y'all think?

I did this a few weeks ago...here's how:

Marked out on the top & sides the contour I wanted in regular intervals (sorry, no pics)

Used a 10mm drill bit in a pillar drill to remove the bulk of the wood in steps following the contours.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/bil...Belly_drill.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/bil...lly_drill02.jpg

Used a spokeshave to remove the steps until it was nearly smooth

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/bil...Belly_carve.jpg

Sanded smooth with a drum sander in a drill, 80grit.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/bil.../Belly_done.jpg

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biliousfrog,

Wow! Thanks, I would never have thought to have used a drill press for that project, I though about a band saw (BUT I don't have one) or a belt sander, which I could buy cheap enough. I have a bench top drill press so I think I could do that , of course I'll have to come up with a sure fire way of clamping the body down so I don't screw it up in the process.

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With all due respect to Billious, this here is the right tool for the right job. :D

You see the outline drawn for the body bout?

With that grinder, I had that entire section gone in 5 minutes flat or less.

The drill press, I guess it works if that's what you got, but the angle grinder is the correct tool.

Quick, efficient, neat, fast. :D

ANGLEGRINDER.jpg

Finished Rear Bout Shot

.

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Drak,

Is that the same body? The wood looks much lighter in the finished shot.

Ok, I'm going to try to do this belly cut sometime not too long after Christmas,,,,,,,,,,, then what? Exactly what pore filler do I need and what other materials for the finishing of the back of the body? The reason I want to know is so I can get in my head exactly the order of each part of the process...........

Will the gravity feed gun I bought be ok? It should be here Friday or if not then right after Christmas............

Edited by tkcrabby
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No, different body, but I do them all exactly the same way.

I would use an oil-based pore-filler, most pore fillers come in 2 shades, natural and walnut, your choice is obvious. :D

If I have to use a standard pore filler, I like oil-based over water based. You can most likely find some Behlen's oil-based walnut colored pore filler from StewMac.

I use the siphon-type gun myself, so if you use the new one, you may need to ask advice of someone who uses the gravity-fed model as I have never used one of those myself.

My favorite affordable all-around gun is the pint gun from Home Depot made by Campbell-Hausfeld, for about $40.00.

I've got others, but that gun is my bread and butter everyday gun that I use all the time, pretty much every guitar you've seen of mine got the C-H gun used on it.

Not saying any others aren't as good, just my experience is with that gun. I know it works,I know it's easily available, and it's relatively affordable.

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Ok Drak,

So, once I get the "belly cut" done and sanded out to look like the rest of the back, and I'm ready to start the "pore filling" , you had said in another post that I really needed to protect the binding BEFORE starting the pore filling process,,, I've read elsewhere that maybe I need to tape the binding off with a "pin-striping" tape. Is this the case? I assume I should tape it with the pin striping tape and then use what?, maybe some regular masking tape to hold the brown paper to the topper? I just want to make sure before I started,,,,,,,,,, about the gravity feel gun,,,,,,,,,, I thought I'd read in a post that you made somewhere else on this forum that you liked the gravity feed type the best, no problem I'll just use my siphon gun.

On the pore filler, is this something I can get at my local Lowe's or only from a place like stew mac and the such?

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So, once I get the "belly cut" done and sanded out to look like the rest of the back, and I'm ready to start the "pore filling" , you had said in another post that I really needed to protect the binding BEFORE starting the pore filling process,,, I've read elsewhere that maybe I need to tape the binding off with a "pin-striping" tape. Is this the case? I assume I should tape it with the pin striping tape and then use what?, maybe some regular masking tape to hold the brown paper to the topper? I just want to make sure before I started

You could use any good tape, the green masking tape is good, the blue is easier to remove.

You do need to protect it from the pore filler, but the pore filler is not as serious an issue as protecting it from any dyes you may use later on, so don't sweat it heavy yet, just tape it up. I would probably use the blue masking tape, and yes, paper bag to cover the top.

,,,,,,,,,, about the gravity feel gun,,,,,,,,,, I thought I'd read in a post that you made somewhere else on this forum that you liked the gravity feed type the best, no problem I'll just use my siphon gun.

The gravity fed gun looks like a nice gun, you should actually learn how to use BOTH since you will have both, it's nice to have 2 guns around, you can multi-task when needed. You may find one is better than the other, or you just prefer one over another, it's nice to have options.

On the pore filler, is this something I can get at my local Lowe's or only from a place like stew mac and the such?

If you have a finish supplier in your area, then you could find it locally.

There are many ways to pore fill, there is probably something you could find at Lowe's, but I don't buy pore filler there, so I couldn't counsel you on it, you could ask around at the TDPRI, a lot of those guys get supplies from places like that and may have an answer for you.

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There are many ways to pore fill, there is probably something you could find at Lowe's, but I don't buy pore filler there, so I couldn't counsel you on it, you could ask around at the TDPRI, a lot of those guys get supplies from places like that and may have an answer for you.

NO sir, I'll buy some from stew mac, I NEED your help. I'll go there in a few minutes and order some,,,, like I said , I'll be starting the belly cut right after Christmas and then hopfully the pore fill soon after that...........

UPDATE: Just went to stew mac and they only show two fillers, both are water based,,,,,,,,,,

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...nd_putties.html

Edited by tkcrabby
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I use the siphon-type gun myself, so if you use the new one, you may need to ask advice of someone who uses the gravity-fed model as I have never used one of those myself...

...Not saying any others aren't as good, just my experience is with that gun. I know it works,I know it's easily available, and it's relatively affordable.

I used to use the Campbell Hausfeld siphon feed gun you referred to, drak. I was able to get satisfactory results from it and really could not complain about the quality got for the price at all. I recently switched to a comparably priced gravity feed gun. I like it a lot more than the siphon feed gun I used before. As far as laying down a finish, I get about equal results from both. However, the gravity feed gun is much, much easier to clean. I always found the siphon tube and cup lid a real nuisance to clean. Finishes don't seem to stick to the plastic cup of my siphon feed gun nearly as well as they did the siphon feed's aluminum cup. Also, there's absolutely no wasted finish with a gravity feed gun, whereas with a siphon feed gun you lose whatever the tube doesn't reach. The gravity feed gun I'm using at the moment cost about $30(when it was on sale) at harbor freight.

peace,

russ

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With all due respect to Billious, this here is the right tool for the right job. B)

You see the outline drawn for the body bout?

With that grinder, I had that entire section gone in 5 minutes flat or less.

The drill press, I guess it works if that's what you got, but the angle grinder is the correct tool.

Quick, efficient, neat, fast. :D

+1

The angle grinder is a good investment to make, it's a really versatile tool. Once you get the hang of it, you can carve tops, AANJ's, forearm contours, belly countours, etc, etc. I'd highly recommend getting a GOOD one though, such as Dewalt (what I have) or a Milwaukee. Buy some 40 and 60 grit sanding flaps, and you're set. :D

Chris

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Ok, so after I do the "belly cut" with a 40 grit flap disc, what grit do I need to use to get the body edges and rear ready for pore filling and then clear lacquer,,, 220 and then 400 wet (used dry) ?

I still have a long while before any of this happens BUT I'm just wanting to get as complete a mental picture of the process as possible.

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You'll want to have some 220 to finish dressing up the rear bout after you use the grinder, and typically I'll dry sand the body to 320 before finish, some stop at 220 tho.

If you don't have one yet, go by a 1/4" air nozzle for your compressor, the REALLY nice thing about having a compressor around, besides the ability to shoot your finishes, is to be able to blow your work off after sanding.

This is a HUGE benefit to have when you have your own compressor, so if you don't have an air nozzle yet, pick one up, shouldn't be more than $5-6.00 or so.

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Thanks Drak,

Yes, I already have a 1/4" air nozzle , what I need (and don't know what one to buy) is a filter to make sure the water is out of the air lines when I spray, till now I've only used the compressor to air up a tire or run an impact wench.

The plastic hood on this thing may have to come off to put a filter on it but which one?

This one ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

Or this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

Or what?

Also, would this stain be good for the top? The reason I ask is that the "Peacock Blue" looks like it may get me fairly close to the shade of blue I want , especially if I mixed a little of their "Bright Blue" in with it, what do you think Drak?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...42996&ap=1)

Edit: Seems the more I look the more messed up I get as far as figuring out where to buy my finish stuff from, is this please ok? Or do I need to buy from elsewhere? If so, where?

http://www.lmii.com/Default.asp

Edited by tkcrabby
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok guys, I'm still getting my parts and supplies for this Tele build,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I have a question about what caps to get for the tone control if I use these stacked 4 wire humbucker pickups:

http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...tepisetmvi.html

I'm thinking I need these because of the fact that the p-ups are humbuckers,, right? http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...ordrtoca0f.html

Even though the p-ups are single coil size I still need to use 500K pots for the vol & tone since the p-ups are humbuckers,,, right? Just want to make sure before I order anything else!

I'm also planning to wire the Tele using this diagram which uses two (2) Humbuckers and a DPDT on/on mini switch to have the pickups parallel or series.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/spr96.shtml

Edited by tkcrabby
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Unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules, just recommendations, and no one but you will know how you want it to sound.

Personally, I'd get a .02 AND a .047 cap, also get a 250K AND a 500K volume pot, they're both relatively cheap, and you don't really know which one you'll like.

I just assembled a new guitar tonight, used a 500K volume, and it's a bit bright for me, I'll probably replace it with a 250K in a few minutes, it's just the way it goes, they're pretty easy to replace.

I tend to like the .047 caps myself, but you may be different, and they're just a few cents and 5 minutes to replace.

No, there are no hard and fast rules about 500K must be used with humbuckers or whatever, and with your pkps being 10K and 7K, you really are straddling the middle ground...any hotter, I'd say 500K for sure. Any weaker, I'd say 250K for sure, but you're in sort of a middle ground there, it will be up to you in the end. I think both would probably work, the 500K being a little brighter, the 250K being a little mellower. Get one of each just in case.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...
I have BUT, no reply. I wonder if he's ok OR if he's just too busy to answer me?

Well, there you go. You're just going to have to make your own decisions.

For the choice of the sprayer, you could always post a question (or do a search) in the tools or finishing sections, you might have a better chance at getting information there than here.

As for the choice of color...I agree, it isn't always easy to choose (I just went through that on my own tele, finally decided to keep it natural), but you really have to figure this one out for yourself.

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