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Walnut Bass


goat

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I can't wait to see that scarf joint on the underside.

As per your request.This is just the rough shaping of the headstock.I did a little rasp work.

DCP_3144.jpg

The other side.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q130/goat552/DCP_3142.jpg

Front

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q130/goat552/DCP_3145.jpg

...and Back

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q130/goat552/DCP_3146.jpg

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Wow awsome =)

Cant wait to see some more progress!

Thanks Travis.

I know this looks rough right now.It`s my second build .I rough cut the headstock with a coping saw and will shape the rest with rasps,files,scrapers and rifflers.I have three routers,but I really enjoy using the hand tools.I know it takes longer,but I like it.

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Looking Great...........that scarf looks great! Looking forward to the progress..........oh, and on those bridges, you can pull the individual saddles off and file the bottom if you need to go lower. I did that to get out of needing to route channels to lower the entire bridge pieces. Although I remember in a post you had already compensated for that. I like the body shape a lot too.

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I did that to get out of needing to route channels to lower the entire bridge pieces.

I`m glad you were able to set that up.

Can you put a sound bite of your bass up?

I have a barto pre-amp and I am putting in a three-way toggle for a

series/Single coil (Bridge end of HB)/parallel set-up.

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Got the fretboard glued on.I have not shaped the neck yet.Only roughly.

The dark grain that runs down the Cocobolo, where it meets the center Walnut laminate,that also has a dark grain line.It looks like a continuation.I thought that looked kind of neat.It just worked out that way.

DCP_3169.jpg

Another shot.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q130/goat552/DCP_3171.jpg

and the Fingerboard being glued to the Neck

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q130/goat552/DCP_3166.jpg

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Looks freakn awesome! Can't wait to see more.

Thanks Jon.

Unfortunately I have to take several days off from working on it because I have to go away and do some family stuff.It`s a shame because I was getting into it.

By the way,do you know if I have to use a grain filler or sanding sealer with a Tru-oil or Maloofs Poly/Oil,

or can I wet sand the beginning coats with the oil so they act like a filler?

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I plan on grain filling the Mahogany body 6-string bass I'm working on, then using Tru-Oil as the finish (which looks great on Mahogany). But can you use it as a grain filler? I don't see why not. But I'm sure there are cheaper grain fillers out there than Tru-Oil and Poly. Epoxy, for instance, can go a very long way with a small amount.

When in doubt, test on scrap! I say test some of that Poly, Tru-oil, and some epoxy as grain fillers for your desired finish and see how they work together. Epoxy works damn well as a grain filler from personal experience. It may take some practice to get it right, though.

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Meh, I misread, I'm tired.

Do you have to use a pore filler with tru-oil? No. The finish is completely up to you. Some people like the pores open. Some like pores sealed with a poly finish. I personally think a finish with no pore filling prior to the finish looks awful, but of course, just opinion.

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Meh, I misread, I'm tired.

Do you have to use a pore filler with tru-oil? No. The finish is completely up to you. Some people like the pores open. Some like pores sealed with a poly finish. I personally think a finish with no pore filling prior to the finish looks awful, but of course, just opinion.

I will definately fill the pores.It`s the Walnut that has the most open grain on this project.

I read somewhere once,but not sure if it is this application,that if you sand inbetween coats of Tru-oil with 400 grit and mineral spirits until the pores are filled,then you apply your finishing coats.Then if you want a high gloss use the Zinsser `s Bulls Eye French Polish .

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