Jump to content

Leafing As A Guitar Finish?


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, I must admit I am pretty new to the idea of refinishing guitars. I have an old Schecter that I sanded down and repainted in a green/black burst (with an air brush), which turned out to be okay but recently I decided to redo it with oil paint (rubbed in like a dye) and that appears to be going well. But anyways, I thought it might be fun to try and redo my Ibanez RG with some kind of leafed, or holoflash finish. I read on this website that it can be done without even stripping the guitar down to the wood, does that mean I can leave the finish as is, and go over what's there?. Are there any tips/words of warning for those attempting this type of finish? I'm open to any other materials as well, as long as it gets a depthy and colored metallic finish.

Thanks in advance, with any luck if this turns out well I hope to keep refinishing guitars in the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everyone, I must admit I am pretty new to the idea of refinishing guitars. I have an old Schecter that I sanded down and repainted in a green/black burst (with an air brush), which turned out to be okay but recently I decided to redo it with oil paint (rubbed in like a dye) and that appears to be going well. But anyways, I thought it might be fun to try and redo my Ibanez RG with some kind of leafed, or holoflash finish. I read on this website that it can be done without even stripping the guitar down to the wood, does that mean I can leave the finish as is, and go over what's there?. Are there any tips/words of warning for those attempting this type of finish? I'm open to any other materials as well, as long as it gets a depthy and colored metallic finish.

Thanks in advance, with any luck if this turns out well I hope to keep refinishing guitars in the future.

I can tell you what I know about GOLD leafing cuz I ve done it much. If u go with gold you have to use the real thing, not imitation gold or you will do it over in 3 days. Its not that expensive but I guess it depends on the size. It would be easier to do without removing the first finish because raw wood releases gasses that can cause bubbles. Most important is that you use the right kind of varnish, which is simply a speed varnish that you buy at the boat store. You put on the varnish first in a small area, then wait till it dries , (30+- min) , till its tacky to the touch but does not catch your finger tip enough to show the finger print. If you can see your print in it, then its too early and you gotta wait a few more mins. DEFINITELY dont put the gold on while the varnish is too wet.

it takes practice , so practice first. Use a soft paint brush to lay in and burnish the gold.

Your big problem is that youre gonna have to seal that GOLD with something when your done, since its a guitar. I dont know what to use to seal it with since Ive never had to do it with sign lettering.

Check around for more info.

Calibration1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried it once with moderate success but that was on a pretty curvy body, i am going to try it again on a telecaster shape soon - i think i will get better results.

I didnt use varnish to stick it too because it needs a protective finish over the gold and i didnt want compatability issues.

So heres what i would do from my experimentation so far - but bare in mind i havnt got it perfect yet, but if you are willing to live with a bit of texture that doesnt matter.

1. paint/spray the body a colour that matches the leaf - this makes the process a lot easier since you dont have to worry so much about gaps.

2. brush clear lacquer (that is compatible with the gold undercoat) onto the surface you want to leaf and wait a few minutes.

3. When lacquer is sticky apply the gold leaf to it. I use tranfer leaf not loose, the stuff with a paper backing. Obviously you apply the gold side down

4. Brush the back off the gold leaf with a soft brush then remove the paper. It should stick nicely to the lacquer

5 repeat as neccisary

6 Spray, final clear coats over the whole thing, buff as normal.

You will need to practice to see how long you will have to leave the lacquer and how much you need to brush the leaf to get it to stick nicely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my first attempt - its very rough and hasnt been sprayed with more lacquer yet. This was my first time working with gold leaf, but the flat portions of the guitar were quite easy to do and came out nice so i am sure with a bit of practice i could get it perfect

30_11_06_2014.jpg

This was my inspiration:

gold leaf SIMS strat

You can see they have some texture in theres but apparently the finish over the top is glass smooth so it must be quite thick, i decided to leave mine feeling a bit 'gold nuggety' in the rougher places

edit: i should add that i chose this body to work on because it was never perfect and we had major finishing issues with it due to contamination - practice on scrap, not your best PRS!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! That came out really nice, especially for a first try. The only thing I'm looking to do differently than what you guys have mentioned is use a different colored leafing, probably one of the exotic colored ones I found on http://www.tolehouse.com/supplies/papers/goldleaf.htm. But I'm also wondering what kind of finish should I use on the fully leafed guitar?

Edited by nosleeptilmetal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...