GoodWood Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Ok, Im wondering if there are bearings to use when cutting a binding channel, for depth, with a rounter. How do you set up the trim router to do this? THanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Check the StewMac website for several different ways to do this. I've tried them all, and was never totally satisfied with the resulting channel until I took an old router and made it part of a dedicated binding channel cutting rig. It is pretty similar to other binding rigs that acoustic builders use....it was relatively cheap to make, but you may not want to go to the trouble unless you plan to do binding on a semi-regular basis. binding channel rig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 Check the StewMac website for several different ways to do this. I've tried them all, and was never totally satisfied with the resulting channel until I took an old router and made it part of a dedicated binding channel cutting rig. It is pretty similar to other binding rigs that acoustic builders use....it was relatively cheap to make, but you may not want to go to the trouble unless you plan to do binding on a semi-regular basis. binding channel rig Exellent, but what do you use for a depth stop>? I may just do the first ones by hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 The vertical extent of the cut is adjusted by setting the vertical level of the bit with the router itself...all routers have this ability. The horizontal extent of the cut is adjusted by using different-sized bearings on the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 (edited) The horizontal extent of the cut is adjusted by using different-sized bearings on the bit. Aye! didnt know that. What I would do ( ) is seal the edge, and run a blade over it, to get an initial clean cut on the top. This is what you do in woodcarving to get clean cuts. Then I wu just do it by hand, steady steady hand. Where is a good place to get bearings? Anyone know if you can put bearings on any bit, like for a rotozip, which takes router bits? http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E...42_A_cn_E_56019 Ok this looks like a good bit, you just need to use different bearings?- Im getting a 'glue up' sawblade from these guys. States that you just run it through the blade, and its ready to glue up. Not sure if its luthier quality, Ill know in a week. Edited February 3, 2007 by GoodWood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 You would do best to get a cutter head and bearing set. The cutter bit is larger in diamerter and this allow you do make your purfling shelf as well as your binding channels. It offers flexability to cut the depths you need. Eriks set up is about the best out there. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 Not all router bits allow you to fit bearings; there are different size bits, different size bearings, different size screws that hold down the different size bearings, blah blah blah... Not only that, you want a set of bearings where each one is only slightly smaller than the next, to allow for different binding & purfling thicknesses. You won't be able to construct a very flexible from a collection of various bearings out there....I tried. So I just forked over the $85 and then didn't have to worry about it. But you may be able to find a bit diameter and bearing diameter that will get your your favorite channel width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Routing_...er_Bit_Set.html Cool, will this work with a rotozip? Anyone know? Ill probably try hand routing first, if its too much, I know were to go! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 That StewMac bit set is the one I use. The router bit is a 1/4" shank so the rotozip should hold it fine....I just don't think you can hold the rotozip still enough to get you a square, clean channel. I wasn't even satisfied with a dremel, which is a lot lighter and easier to handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Just tried out my hand binder on some Mahogany neck wood and it works fine. Thats what I will use for the first few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 You will want a router not a dremel/rotozip. You will do best if you have speed control. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 You will want a router not a dremel/rotozip. You will do best if you have speed control. Peace,Rich Ok, cool, thanks, - Beat ya by a second there Fryovanni! Yea, a screamin rotozip by a guitar does make me ,..... a bit nervous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 It looks like a really clean and nice binding chanel you got there. I use a router but I am impressed with what you can do with a "simple" hand tool like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Try your tool on an acoustic body with caution. You may find it a quite a bit more challenging and prone to damage VS a straight Mahogany billet. Nice tool you have there though Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 Thanks, we'll see how it works with 1/4 " depth cuts. The trick is go slow, a MM at a time to start out. Let the blade do the cutting and keep it sharp. What is the best stuff to seal the spruce with to stop tear out? I have Shellac, but its very brown and stinky. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cherokee6 Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 Someone recently had a thread on this with a jig used with a regular sized router. It may have been Setch's rig used for carving a top, but if I recall he uses it for bindings, too. I'll try to find the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cherokee6 Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 OK, found it. You can go to Setch's site: http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/ It's a great rig and I plan to build one myself. You can also use a router table. Saves the cost of the Stew Mac Dremel attachment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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