Jump to content

Neck Placement


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am getting to the point where I am going to attach the neck - I am posting my progress so far Here -

My First Build

I have a copy Strat neck which is predrilled for the 4 attachment screws, whick I plan on using with a neck plate. How do I make the holes in the body line up with the holes that exist in the neck? I can see that careful measurement may be the answer, but is there an easy way?

Thanks

Denis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plug the holes in the neck with wooden dowels.

Place neck in position, and use a center punch throught the existing holes in the body to mark their position on the neck.

Drill new holes in neck, making sure not to drill too far (don't want to go through the fingerboard, ya know...).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I gather, the body is a new build so there are no existing holes. In this case it's better to match the new holes in the body to the existing holes in the neck. However, first check that the holes on the plate line up with the holes in the neck....they might not. If not then you may be better off plugging and redrilling with the plate in what you feel is the ideal position.

I've never had to transfer neck holes to the pocket, and someone with more experience may want to chime in, but here's what I'd try.

Stick the plate into position on the neck with the screw holes centred over the holes in the plate with very weak double sided tape. put stronger double sided tape into the neck pocket and position the neck in the pocket. When you remove the neck, the plate should remain inside the pocket, and you can trace the holes. Careful that you use the weaker tape on the finished side of the plate so it will not damage the finish. Remove the plate (carefully) and drill the holes.

hope this helps.

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys,

Good ideas both of them. I think I am for plugging and redrilling - I have done this already on my Harmony Rocket when I got a new (still 45 year old) neck from ebay, so I know what's involved.

As I don't have to decide for a few days, I guess I'll wait and see what other good ideas I get.

Thanks Again

Denis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

never waste your time matching up holes you dont see!

follow the first suggestion and fill your holes;

now you have (technically) a fresh neck

you said you had a neck plate; put that where you want it and use that as a template for drilling your holes

after all the body is done and your ready to attach the neck, put it in the pocket, and drill your first pilot hole;

lightly screw in your first screw to hold it in place, now screw the kiddy corner of that and screw both in most of the way; this will keep everyting lined up; then do the other 2 screws; take it apart, get rid of debris and reassamble;

no guess work and faster; keep it simple or you'll be sorry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the plugging and redrilling idea going to make a strong joint? If you fill the hole with a dowel and then drill through part of that, won't it possibly make a bigger hole? I'm not saying it's a bad idea....I was just wondering how well it worked since I haven't tried it. I'm almost to this point in my project too, and want to know the best way for doing it. And I agree that keeping it simple is the best way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the plugging and redrilling idea going to make a strong joint?

All I can say is that I did it on my Harmony Rocket. The holes in the "new" replacement neck looked as it the neck had ripped off the old body without unscrewing it, so I drilled them out with an 8mm bit and plugged the holes with 8mm dowels. I used Titebond II, which I am a great fan of for wood to wood joints. I only redrilled pilot holes, and the screws are holding very firmly.

Fuzz - thanks for that step by step - it's about what I had in mind, but you have put it into a much easier to follow path that I will attempt in the next 48 hours or so. Currently my time is taken up helping my godson complete a school project which is really taxing my head. I am having to use just about every tool and jig that I own to complete it. I've told him that when he gets an A for it, I want a copy of the certificate! I am finding it really tiring working on someone else's project - very different responsibility. It's good for me to slow down and think everything thru in advance, and I am hoping to take this into the rest of my woodworking.

Denis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...