themortarman Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I am planning a set neck LP, have been doing my homework. I found a Blog Page by 'Setch'. From what I can tell instead of using a some type of angle guide to cut the mortise angle he angles the top first then goes by the top angle for cutting the mortise. So my questions are: Is that just how I am seeing this and is this way a better way of doing it. Thanks!! . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I assume you are referring to this: http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/?page_id=10 You are correct. First he routed the necessary neck angle into the top and then used it as a guide to route the angle in the neck pocket. CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I assume you are referring to this: http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/?page_id=10 You are correct. First he routed the necessary neck angle into the top and then used it as a guide to route the angle in the neck pocket. CMA Yep that's the page. I actually built a router stand similar to what he posted on his tools page for removing the meat for the carved top. Need to find some scrapes to practice on. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 (edited) Another thing. I notice that he doesn't cut out the mortise till after the top is carved. Is that to prevent any tear out around the mortise when removing the bulk of the carve with a router? Would hollowing the back wood out more then in this blog make the guitar unbalanced? Edited June 11, 2007 by themortarman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 I cut out the mortice before carving the top - the only section I did before the mortice is the area which is angled like the neck. This allows me to cut the angled mortice, with a regular flat template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Ok thanks so much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Setch, are you completly appose to the Gibson style neck angle transition. I see many builders use the Spanish luthier's joint and some will do it the traditional Gibson way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Sorry, I don't understand the question! The LP is built used a traditional Gibson style neck joint, with a straight tenon and angled mortice. This is how Gibson have been making Les Paul's since the 50's. Are you thinking of the difference between a dovetail and a spanish heel on acoustic guitars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Oh sorry!! I guess that the scarf joint on the headstock would be called a "Spanish luthier's joint " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Ah - now I get you. Yep, I prefer to use a scarf joint rather than a one piece neck. There are millions of very fine guitars out there with 1 piece necks, and 1 piece necks look very pretty, but I totted up pros and cons, and decided scarfs were better. They're more economical, stronger, and for me (a builder with only a very tiny bandsaw) they're faster to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Thanks!! When you planed the angle for the neck angle I take that you carry that angle all the way across the width of the body. Another thing, I was hoping to use .25" binding all the way around even where the horn turns in to where it meets the neck. Is that just a matter of spending some extra time carving a transitional point in that area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) Got a chance to test out my own "Sawdust Generator". Worked like a charm I can see where I could use it to route out the binding and everything. With a little modification I was able to run a binding channel perfectly on a piece of scrap with just using the adjustable stop. No bushing bit. Now the only problem I may run in to is I my have a issue turning around the cut out. Instead of the board as the stop I may have to align some type of pin, offset from the bit, on floor of the "Sawdust generator" Thanks so much, Setch!!! Here's a test block, I have a curved piece that worked just a well. Edited June 15, 2007 by themortarman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 Should I be concerned that the mahogany back is closer to 1 5/8" then 1 3/4"? The top is a full 3/4" My boards were well over 2.5", like a dummy I tried to remove the bulk with my new the me band saw that I have very little experience with They first board I got wobble cut so when I ran it in my thickness jig it was under 1 3/4" then add some time on the belt sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 I wouldn't worry, it's a pretty tiny difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 (edited) Here's a profile shot. Nicked the top experimenting the binding should hided it. Believe or not that mahogany was all rough cut I did all the surface work in my garage. Damnz that was some work. Edited June 17, 2007 by themortarman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 Looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 Thanks Setch!! I had discovered your blog page about 3 months ago, have be studying every chance I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 I'm gonna have a go at doing this on the next few LP's I build by trying to plane the neck angle into the front of the maple top with a hand plane, then using that as a base for the router like Setch did. It shouldn't be too hard as it isn't a surface that requires a large plane to make it accurate, anything from a #3 to #4 1/2 should easily do the job. I'll report back on my findings once its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VesQ Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 I´d like to try this circle saw method to cutting angle on top. http://www.geocities.com/ccbryan/BuildLesPaul.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 Moving right along. Be ready to set the neck soon. Need to check and double check things a 100 times over before it's cemented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Did you manage to actually use 0.25" thick binding? This is my first read of the thread, and IMO that is way too thick. Looks like on the photo you have a standard binding thickess (0.06 or 0.09). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 (edited) Did you manage to actually use 0.25" thick binding? This is my first read of the thread, and IMO that is way too thick. Looks like on the photo you have a standard binding thickess (0.06 or 0.09). Oh no! Sorry I meant .25" tall not thick. It's .60" thick Ivoroid. Edited June 27, 2007 by themortarman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Burst with a few coats of sanding sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 29, 2007 Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Ooooh man - stop, stop - that looks way too good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortarman Posted June 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Thanks!! Setch, how do you like the Golden Age pups? I have heard a lot of good things about these sleeper pups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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