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Shopmade Buffers?


fookgub

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I picked up a nice heavy-duty motor off craigslist last week, and I'm planning to use it to power a buffer. I was originally hoping to find a knock-off of the Stewmac buffing arbor, but the only other one I've found is the Shopfox, and it's the same price. For the life of me, I can't understand why these things are so expensive. So now I'm thinking of DIYing it. Buying all the parts new would be expensive, but I think with proper scrounging of materials, I can beat Stewmac's price. I'm not looking for plans specifically (I can figure out how to build it myself), mostly just inspiration. So if you've built one, show it off!

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I have the shop fox and it works fine attached to a cheap motor and stabd with a riser box to bring the arbor higher up.

I wish the shaft was longer but it works. Didn't find a better arbor for the price and the picture from MIMF seemed like your time would better be used buffing rather than building a buffer from scratch.

Woodenspoke

Edited by Woodenspoke
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I have the shop fox and it works fine attached to a cheap motor and stabd with a riser box to bring the arbor higher up.

I wish the shaft was longer but it works. Didn't find a better arbor for the price and the picture from MIMF seemed like your time would better be used buffing rather than building a buffer from scratch.

Woodenspoke

How long is the shaft on the Shopfox. The Stewmac buffer has a 27" shaft, but it looks virtually identical to the Shopfox, except for the larger pully.

I'm not giving up on building a buffer just yet. That link from SwedishLuthier was very informative. The most expensive part seems to be the pillow block bearings. Purpose-built shafts from places like McMaster are expensive, but is there anything preventing me from just using a straight piece of threaded rod from the hardware store as a shaft? I could use the machine tools at work to make a real shaft, but at some point it makes more sense to simply buy the buffer.

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  • 3 months later...

I'm revisiting this idea now that I've found a supplier for cheap pillow block bearings and shafts. I'm planning to use a 5/8" x 36" shaft so I can use the buffs the Stewmac sells, but I noticed that the Stewmac buffer has a 3/4" shaft that is turned down to 5/8" on the ends. Also, the Stewmac buffer's shaft is 9 inches shorter than the one I want to use. Am I risking anything by using just a straight 5/8" shaft? I indend to secure the buffs in place using a pair of collars and, if necessary, some fender washers.

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Thanks for the link, Rich. Which buffs would be best for guitar-type stuff? The canton flannel wheels seem the closest to what Stewmac sells, but they don't have metal grommets. Is that a big deal, or can I just tighten the buffs between a couple of fender washers? I was planning to stay around 2500 sfpm (equivalent to a 12" wheel at 800 rpm). How's that sound?

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Thanks for the link, Rich. Which buffs would be best for guitar-type stuff? The canton flannel wheels seem the closest to what Stewmac sells, but they don't have metal grommets. Is that a big deal, or can I just tighten the buffs between a couple of fender washers? I was planning to stay around 2500 sfpm (equivalent to a 12" wheel at 800 rpm). How's that sound?

Yes, I use Canton flannel wheels. I also have Domet Flannel. I have cupped washers that I use. Can't remember where I got them though, might have been an Ace hardware or something. That sounds about right for speed, slow is good, and 12 and 14" wheels need to be geared way down.

Peace,Rich

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This would seem like a better candidate for the job to me all you would have to do is extend the rod out further grizzly buffer

I gave that Grizzly buffer away one year after I bought it, too fast, too unstable and is made for metal. IF you go the DIY route then by all means the longer the better. Buffing wheels come in different shaft sizes as well as overall size so you have to look around on other sites other than SM. Even Grizzly sells wheels. You still need a nut and thread on any buffer to hold the wheels, so any lathe work would need to be done with precision meaning a metal shop. may be cheaper in the long run but more leg work.

Believe me I wish my buffer was another foot longer on each side. I guess a bolt on neck would make it easier, LOL.

Edited by Woodenspoke
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