Setting Neck Angle To Bridge Hieght

[ray]

built 5 fender style guitars so far but the current build is a little different

i want to use a gotoh 510UB wrap around / TOM 1 piece bridge which is really neat but to get enough rise to meet the break point on the bridge i need to route the neck pocket at two degrees

see the bridge here

I have drawn it out and worked out the angle but I am wondering exactly where to plot the line to and from

to the top of the centre saddles with the bridge right down or up a little?

is the fingerboard the line?

is the break point on the nut the line?

I want to ensure there is plenty of adjustment available to get the finished action as low as possible with adjustment to allow for relief and heavier/lighter strings

i am also not sure what angle to place the bridge [25.5" scale lenght]

the bridge has grub screws to kick the bridge out at the studs so it does have a bit of leeway

many questions - thanks in advance for answers

[Mattia]

- StewMac's fret calculator will tell you where to place your studs

- Define the bridge height with the bridge all the way down (or just a hair raised, no more) and the lowest feasible action you'll ever want, say 1.5 to 2mm. Relief and bending will only raise the strings up a little (forward bow)

- Break is on the nut cutoff, front edge.

The amount of angle you need depends on all the measurements above, plus a few more (See the pinned topic in the tutorial section), so how you can already 'know' you need a 2 degree angle and still be asking questions about bridge height and the like is a little worrying...

[ray]

yes - i am a little worried - my initial calculations show 2 degrees

i didn't put that "i need to route the neck pocket at two degrees" exactly the right way i guess it should be more like "i think i need to route the neck pocket at two degrees but want ask advice first"

i want to make real sure before i go cutting anything

i am going to check out that link now thanks mattia

[doug]

I use this bridge all the time... The studs need to be moved farther from the nut than a TOM so lay it out. I use 1-1/2* for neck angle, though you might want to use 2 depending on your whole setup. Adjust the neck angle with the bridge lowered all the way. I use a straightedge down the neck with a pointer attached where the bridge goes. Once the angle adjustment makes the pointer touch the body that's it. You can place the bridge with 2 sided tape(not carpet tape though) to the body then use the straight edge to get your neck angle. That would represent your lowest possible string height, too low actually. Since your strings only "go up" from there the neck angle is just right.

-Doug

[ray]

I use this bridge all the time... The studs need to be moved farther from the nut than a TOM so lay it out. I use 1-1/2* for neck angle, though you might want to use 2 depending on your whole setup. Adjust the neck angle with the bridge lowered all the way. I use a straightedge down the neck with a pointer attached where the bridge goes. Once the angle adjustment makes the pointer touch the body that's it. You can place the bridge with 2 sided tape(not carpet tape though) to the body then use the straight edge to get your neck angle. That would represent your lowest possible string height, too low actually. Since your strings only "go up" from there the neck angle is just right.

-Doug

I drew it all out again and it looks pretty much like 2 deg

mmm not quite sure i follow your method doug....

do you cut the angle on the neck heel or on the neck pocket??

[oz tradie]

do you cut the angle on the neck heel or on the neck pocket??

[ray]

do you cut the angle on the neck heel or on the neck pocket??

Hi Ray. Good to see you bouncing around on PG finally !!!!

You can either route the angle in your body or have it in your neck tenon. Horses for courses.

I do mine in the body and use an angled routing template I made up for my specific angle.

Cheers, Stu

technically easier on the neck with a safetyplaner

practically if i do it on the body any strat neck will fit

will decide on that today

btw stu hows that new build going??

[oz tradie]

technically easier on the neck with a safetyplaner

practically if i do it on the body any strat neck will fit

will decide on that today

btw stu hows that new build going??

The Safetyplaner makes good sense.

I've got 6 aussie tonewood builds on the go at the moment, Ray. A mixture of righties and lefties.

Should open a thread I suppose.

cheers, Stu

[ray]

6 new builds - you getting pretty serious

i started with 6 builds and still workin on the last one now after 2 years

the ideas i had at the time i started this last one have largely become irrelavent so its just a experimental [emphasis on mental] project to try some ideas... from now on i am doing 1 at a time and will begin a newie when the previous one is hung up curing. i dont really have the space to tackle that many and i have a big stack of wood which i am wanting to dive into...

[doug]

do you cut the angle on the neck heel or on the neck pocket??

Primarily put the angle in the pocket. Then you can adjust with the heel. The amount of wood taken off the heel if you need to would be so very little that it's hard to discern even. Yes, by angling the heel and not the pocket you would be changing the "fit" of the neck by altering the relationship of the neck pocket to the heel. Some may think this is a bad thing, however if you keep it to a minimum it won't really matter. You neck pocket sites should be nice and snug anyway.

Sounds like you've got it under control. Don't use too much neck angle with this type of bridge or it will end up way high off the body.

-Doug

[ray]

do you cut the angle on the neck heel or on the neck pocket??

Primarily put the angle in the pocket. Then you can adjust with the heel. The amount of wood taken off the heel if you need to would be so very little that it's hard to discern even. Yes, by angling the heel and not the pocket you would be changing the "fit" of the neck by altering the relationship of the neck pocket to the heel. Some may think this is a bad thing, however if you keep it to a minimum it won't really matter. You neck pocket sites should be nice and snug anyway.

Sounds like you've got it under control. Don't use too much neck angle with this type of bridge or it will end up way high off the body.

-Doug

jus one further question doug if you don't mind

i kinda like this bridge and one i get templates etc cut it will be easy to fit than a stringthrough

what offset should i use on the bridge??

i have read that the E bass saddle should be around 1/8" behind the E treble saddle [25.5" scale]

[doug]

The best thing to do is lay it out. The adjustment slots where the studs go are pretty long so you have a lot of wiggle room. I typically put the low E stud 1/8" farther from the nut just like a "normal" TOM bridge. Measure the length of the slots, then put the post holes in the body so the studs are centered in the slots. This will give you room for adjustment.

[ray]

doug your work looks stunning

tnx for the tips