funkdefino Posted November 8, 2003 Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 Maybe this has been covered (no pun intended), but I can't find it anywhere. So, here we go.... I have read that after successfully applying a veneer to a wood surface you may still run the risk of having it peel or bubble from the that surface after dyeing or finishing it. Is it possible to (at least) do the dyeing (to bring out the flame) and letting it dry before actually adhering it to the body? I am deathly paranoid of wrecking an excellent body I have lying around. Thoughts? Questions? Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted November 8, 2003 Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 have you read the tutorial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted November 8, 2003 Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 It will only lift if you: a: are totally incompetent, b: use WAY WAY to much water based, or thinners based stains (see point A) c: Dont use enough glue (see point A) Ive never seen veneer lift after staining or polishing, and i work with fancy veneers for a living. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkdefino Posted November 8, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 have you read the tutorial? I have read several. Which one are you referring to? I would like to read it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkdefino Posted November 8, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 It will only lift if you: a: are totally incompetent, b: use WAY WAY to much water based, or thinners based stains (see point A) c: Dont use enough glue (see point A) Ive never seen veneer lift after staining or polishing, and i work with fancy veneers for a living. I wouldn't call myself totally incompetent (LOL). I just wish to reduce my chances for failure. If dyeing the veneer prior to gluing it is possible then my chances of ruining the body or creating extra work for myself are reduced by 50%. So since you work with "fancy veneers" for a living... Is this possible? Damn we are up late Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted November 8, 2003 Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 have you read the tutorial? I have read several. Which one are you referring to? I would like to read it as well. http://projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkdefino Posted November 8, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 http://projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm Taken from the end of that tutorial: This is fine but you might experience bubbles popping up from the veneer separating from the wood of the body. Don't freak out just continue on about staining and when your finished let the stain completely dry ( over night in an air conditioned area would be best). The problem is that water allows the wood to swell and separate from the glue if left unsealed. What you need to do to correct this problem if it should occur to your project is to let it completely dry, then lay a sheet of aluminum foil over it and spot bake the veneer back down against the body with an ordinary household iron set just hot enough that if you tap it with spit on the end of your finger it sizzles and evaporates I would like to avoid this at all costs. Nowhere in that tutorial does it go into dyeing or finishing. Thanks for forwarding it though! I really hope your not interpreting me as arrogant. I mean no harm. I am just looking for answers that are not exactly spelled out. This is my first guitar body (I think I have done a smashing job, so far) and I just don't want to ruin it. Any other tutorials you can think of might help. The answers I am looking for just might be in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted November 8, 2003 Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 By all means you can dye the top after it is glued on. Just use care and do not saturate the stain pad with stain. You dont need much dye to color the veneer. The pad just needs to be dampened with the color not dripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted November 8, 2003 Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 So since you work with "fancy veneers" for a living... Is this possible? No, because the veneer will soak up the moisture, expand, and distort, making it virtually impossible to lay it down flat on your guitar without (and even with) the use of a industrial vacuum press or proper veneer press. Get a bottle of stain, get a clean dry rag, fold the rag up until its about three inches square, and put the rag over the top of the open bottle of stain. Turn the bottle upside down for one second... Thats enough stain for at least half the face of the guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkdefino Posted November 8, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2003 Thanks rhoads56! That was the answer I was lookin' for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johntbyrne Posted November 9, 2003 Report Share Posted November 9, 2003 I'm going to veneer the headstock on my project and have similar fears along with finishing fears. Thus, I got extra veneer and will make a couple of test heads from scrap wood and practice. In fact I'm trying to validate all my skills needed before cutting the first board. I'm doing stain/finish now on test flame maple (1x2 board bought believe it or not at Home Depot for $6 plus change, 8' board, lots of practice pieces) BTW, till I practice and know I can "do it" I accept that I AM totally incompetent so anything can/will happen if I don't practice. At least this is how I feel (grin). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.